L&M

They restrict the amount of water that flows out thru the risers/elbows at idle/low rpms & helps keep a steady flow going thu the engine when the sea water pump isn't pumping to capacity due to the lower rpm's .

9.9 ELH = 9.9hp Electric start, Longshaft (20"), Tiller handle steering

Good talking yesterday Jack, let me know how you make out.

Sheeps head

It was addressed

Look up Tamiron Honeybees, been producing fish for years

A good quality check valve either inline or at the water separator and/or a simple inline shut off valve between the fuel source & the primer bulb to the kicker is the only fool proof way to do it in my opinion and the many others who have done severe damage or blown there main engine due to a lean mixture. Primer bulb will work and alot get away with it, BUT alot don't & thats where the trouble comes in. That primer bulb is designed for one thing and thats a very simple inexpensive internal check type ball or flapper to facilitate getting fuel a short distance from the tank to the engine only. Example is when you have to hold the bulb vertical with the arrow of flow pointing up to even get the valve to seal & draw fuel when your pumping up you outboard, now what is it doing when it laying horizontal or slightly angled down? You have no idea . Every one has there own opinions when it comes to this but I've seen to many costly repairs to the main engine or engines that could of been avoided by doing it right the first time & not relying on an inexpensive primer bulb that wasent designed for that purpose to start with.

Just switch the cable out to rotary style, helm will be replaced with the Lowrance or Octopus style drive anyhow that utilizes the rotary cable.