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LongLine

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Everything posted by LongLine

  1. You sure know how to hurt a guy...It's freeking snowing out there. Come on spring :!: Tom B. (LongLine) p.s. great pix.
  2. Nice fish Go-K Tom B. (LongLine)
  3. rr - good point. Also nail polish remover in case you spill it. The remover (acetone) also works on anyone that has glued their fingers together with super glue FX - Key chain works. I have mine on one of those floating key chain gizmos Gill - Thanx for your contribution. :roll: How about rubber bands? Sometimes you can find the right size there. Although Staples or Office Max usually has a larger selection. (& cheaper) With the price of gas, every buck saved is another mile of trolling. Any other ideas out there? Doesn't have to be a "drug store". Tom B. (LongLine)
  4. Of course they didn't factor in the cost to modify your gas engines to run the stuff, nor to replace the engines that you have because this gas kills them. oh yeah...forgot....everyone can afford to buy a new car and boat every couple years....yeah, right...NOT :!: They also didn't factor in the cost to grow the stuff. It actually takes more energy to produce it than the old stuff. I remember back when Unleaded came along and they raised the prices. They had the nerve to charge more not to put the lead in. Also, remember when Katrina hit & produced the so-called shortages? Yet immediately afterwards, oil profits went through the sky. :evil: Tom B. (LongLine)
  5. Priority 1, on GLF, mentioned clear finger nail polish as a thread coating on rod eyelet replacement so I thought I mention it here. It works great. It’s basically a lacquer that is more water resistant than the superglues. I’ve also used it to seal threads on trolling flies and on wood plugs to prevent them from getting water logged. Other supplies from the drug store that you can save some money on are: Toe-nail clippers. They work great on cutting fishing knot tag ends Disposable nail files. They work great on touching up hooks. & won’t rust You guys know of any more? :?: :?: Tom B. (LongLine)
  6. They moved east down Norton & on the south side pf the street. I think it's just past Portland Tom B. (LongLine)
  7. 288 salmon above the limit :?: :?: :?: And ice fishing :?: :?: :?: :?: Tom B. (LongLine)
  8. Nick - http://welcome.bbb.org/ Tom B. (LongLine)
  9. Fishinman - "Luckily" meant that even if an entire year class got wiped out (which they have) there's still other year classes out there because they have longer life spans. i.e. if the two yr olds got wiped out, there's still the 1's, 3's, 4's, 5's, 6's, 7's, 8's, 9's, etc still out there. If a yrs worth of Salmon get the ax, then only a couple yr classes are still out there as they rarely live past 4 in Big-O. I wrote that to help inspire the "greaser" fishermen out there. Don't worry about me fishing for them. For me, there's more thrill fishing for my wife's aquarium goldfish with sewing thread tied to a straw than specifically targeting anything that swims like a 5-gal pail full of seaweed. I'm just hoping that guys who "Catch & Release" or "Hook & Cook" don't have to become "Stop & Shop" or "Stare & Swear" fishermen. (At the zoo or aquarium) Tom B. (LongLine)
  10. I only agree with Billy V half way. But hey, I'm from the Genny... If it comes with a ring, I leave it on. If it doesn't, I put a small good one on it. I do this because I haven't found a snap as round as a ring & occassionally have been known to tie direct. Tom B. (LongLine)
  11. FT - The math is correct. We won't see it for a couple years. I'm thinking Alwife numbers will be up again this year but am wondering how the lousy fall run affected Nat Repro. (again, a couple yrs down the road) One thing we all need to do is be careful with any shakers that we catch. Please take the extra care to make sure they survive when you release them. Browns look like the best bet. Hearty buggers that they are. Lakers have been having a tough time for the last few years. Luckily they live longer than the others. Tom B. (LongLine)
  12. Love it...Just think you can get out of the water & be perfrectly dry; Don't have to worry about your wallet, or registration/insurance papers in the glove compartment. Although if the heater worked underwater, it'd be useful for those guys who drive on the ice.... :roll: Tom B. (LongLine) come on spring :!:
  13. Tom B. (LongLine)
  14. Huh?...Did someone say Ray is going to be on "Iron Stomach Chef?" Tom B. (LongLine)
  15. Musky - Thanx. There's many reports/studies out there. One of them listed tells of the devistation done to the Bass population in the St Lawrence. Tom B. (LongLine)
  16. A G - You got'ta be kidding...right??? http://www.dec.ny.gov/docs/fish_marine_ ... 5sec14.pdf http://www.dec.ny.gov/docs/fish_marine_ ... 5sec16.pdf http://www.dec.ny.gov/docs/fish_marine_ ... 5sec17.pdf St Lawrance colony ate 36 million fish in 5 yrs. Only good thing I see in these reports is that one colony is eating primarily Round Gobies & dying of Botulism. :roll: Tom B. (LongLine)
  17. Hey Ray - Fuse length depends upon boat speed. Faster on GPS allows for shorter fuse & you'll cover a lot more water. However if fuse is way too short, YOU will cover a LOT of water. (in small pieces) :roll: Tom B. (LongLine) p.s. With two rods: one's down and the other as far away from the boat as possible/practical. Being on the "straight & narrow" doesn't apply to spring fishing. i.e. Zig-zag trolling patterns.
  18. Try this one. http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/ I think both up-north & Jann's have books on how to make lures. Tom B. (LongLine)
  19. Landshark, You have to know the bottom of the area you want to anchor in (rock, clay, sand, gravel, mud) and the weather conditions you want to anchor in. I.E. on a calm day on the lake over clay bottom, a big rock will more than suffice. You also have to decide how secure you want to hold the boat in position. In a strong river current you may want to have an anchor off the bow and off the side. Most guys I know want to drift a little when they’re fishing the lake. No one anchor is built for all conditions. That Richter anchor is classified as a “river anchorâ€
  20. I'd go way out there: 1 - Get it as far away from engine turbulance as possible. That size engine (prop & lower unit) will have a pretty good drag at slow speeds that may mess up your readings. 2. - Rooster tail at high speed. You'd have a better chance that less of it would be thrown back into the boat. 3 - That size engine on a lightweight boat may not slow down enough & you might want to look at a small kicker in the future so leave as much room as possible on the transom. 4- You might want to net the "big one" back there. 5- If you fall overboard without a ladder out, (and engine off) you can always climb up the lower unit to get back in the boat. (...worry about cutting your foot on the prop rather than ripping your knee open on transducer) Tom B. (LongLine) p.s kidding about that last one...
  21. Cs- I'd put the board here. but as Erby said - Don't mount the transducer behind a a skate. The board should be above the bottom of the boat but the bottom of the transducer should be below the bottom of the boat. Tom B. (LongLine)
  22. Historically if you wanted to catch Browns, especially in the Spring, the thing to do was break out the plugs. Whereas if catching Salmon was your objective then “common knowledgeâ€Â
  23. DH - FWIW, I have looked at about 30 sites & can't find it either. If you do a search on "antique lures", you'll find some of them offer assistance identifying old lures. Also there are a few antique lure associations & clubs out there. Drop them an e-mail & your photo. I hope you realize that you are now committed to this task and must let us know what you find out. Tom B. (LongLine)
  24. Some one told me that there's some thing worse. A food that the gov't inspectors, friends & relatives say is perfecty safe yet has been found by many to really mess up your mind, body & life.....wedding cake. Tom B. (LongLine)
  25. I've run Maxima for years. Only problem I have with it is cost. Tom B. (LongLine)
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