Iceman

BNH;

You are most certainly welcome, happy to send useful info to others!

John

BNH:

If it is a dual axel trailer, make sure the trailer beam is level, so you don't put too much stress on one of the axels. If your tongue is high the rear axel takes a beating, if the tongue is low the front axel will take a beating.

Good luck!

John

duck:

I have two traxtech  combo's w/drinkholders mounted on gunwale tracks.  I drilled out some of the smaller holes to hold larger tools, & fish handling hooks.  I did not find any other ones that I liked, please let us know if you find anything unique.

Thanks;

John

BT:

Always pull a few out trolling stickbaits for walleye out in the main lake outside of Henderson Harbor from the lighthouse to Cherry Island, they run up to two pounds or so. Pretty good odor coming off of them, always catch & release them.

John

Frost:

I have one season on 3 Pfluger presidents used casting for walleye. Zero problems, one holds 160' 10lb braid, & the other two hold 190' of 10lb braid (not sure of the sizes).  Great drags & easy to use.

John

hassell;

Whomever you get, verify that they are currently a certified Garmin installer, because if you have a problem, it may effect your warranty.

Good Luck!

John

BT;

I was looking at them on Tuna's site, but thought I'd give this guy a whirl. 

Thanks for the suggestion, might end up there.

John

SS:

need longer handles for my Diawa 47lc reels (the old original ones), do you have handles longer than the stock handles, if so how much, & do you have 12 of them?

John

gp;

That fitting looks like it is ready to split wide open.

Good luck;

John

Might want to consider using the Chinook divers with less drag bringing them in (than the mags). I know what you mean about the counting up of equipment.  After returniug form the Watkins show yesterday my wife said "Why are all your hobbies so expensive? My reply was have you recently taken a look at your clothes closet?

Sk8:

That last comment would have started WWIII at my house!

John

Meem:

Nice job on the video for sure! Rudy's is open now, can't wait to get some!  Meanwhile it is sixty degrees on the beach in East central Florida.  A couple more weeks, & I will be back in God's country, getting the boat ready for the Spring LOC out of Olcott!

John

Tim;

Once again, thank you for organizing this great effort!

John

SH:

Very nice, especially when done with the fishing team! Looks real sturdy!

John

Actually, 36" compared to 24" is 50% more per turn, which helps make my point about torque. As retrieve rate goes up, torque goes down. As the reel's torque goes down the force the angler has to apply goes up. Somewhere in between too slow a retrieve and too fast a retrieve is a range of ideal retrieves where retrieve rate and applied torque are in balance.

I'll agree with you that a high speed retrieve is nice for clearing rods. For me though, I'm more interested in how well it works for me fighting a fish and less so about clearing rods quickly.

Working a reel is a lot like riding a bike. You and I can ride the same bike but because I'm old, fat, and lazy I need a lower gear than you.

Now, while we may ride the same bike in different gears, one thing will be similar, when we ride the bike uphill, we'll shift to a lower gear. If we don't shift then we struggle to operate the bike in an efficient manner.

So what I'm saying with a diver reel, compared to a rigger reel, is that given the weight of the wire and the tripped diver, that's like riding the bike uphill and a rigger reel is more like riding the bike on the flat.

Now, we can all have our personal preferences, and if you like 36" of retrieve that's a personal preference that I certainly can't argue. I personally do not like that high of a retrieve rate. I know I don't because a friend that I fish with has that reel and I've actually fished with both reels ( and many more ). On my rigger rods I prefer faster retrieve rates because the load is lighter. On my diver, and inline planer copper and core rods, I prefer the 24-28" retrieves.

For some, value is more important than features. So are they wrong for choosing a more budget conscious reel besides a Catalina, Tekota, or Saltist?

Like what was posted above, when a question like this comes up (frequently) it helpful if we as respondents talk about what we like about what we're recommending. It shouldn't be a Ford vs Chevy discussion though unfortunately it often ends up being just that.

When I post a reply to someone's question it's to help them decide what will work well for them. It's not to say that what someone else is doing is wrong.

But sometimes, people's brand loyalty blinds them to possibilities. It's like a recent post on rod quality, durability, and value. I build rods, I repair rods, I have designed rods for a big mfg. yet because I don't recommend a person's favorite brand they'll argue with me that the quality is high when they've likely never built or repaired a rod and have no basis of knowledge other than their passion to brand loyalty no make such a claim.

So, as reels go with respect to retrieve rate, gear ratios, handle geometry, all things being equal as the load on a rod goes up the more torque and less retrieve a reel should have and vice versa. Now, having said that, we all will have a range that works well for us. But that range may or may not be ideal for someone else.

But one thing is mathematically clear. A reel that retrieves 24" of line per handle turn is more powerful than a reel that retrieves 36" of line (again, all other factors being equal).

JEP;

Thanks for correcting my math (a little to quick on the draw)!  Typically, I pump the rod to get line (pull back on the rod or walk backward on the boat deck, then reel down, & or walk forward).  I use the power in the rod or my legs to make line available to be reeled in.  It is rare for me to use just the reel to get line in when fighting a fish, unless it is a small fish.  I understand what you are saying about torque, but part of the torque comes from the handle length, & the rest from the gearing on in the reel.   All of your points are well taken, & I appreciate your follow ups.

Thanks, & Good luck!

John

RD9;

IMHO, you really need to through bolt rod trees, especially quad trees.  Can you mount a section of track on the gunwale, that could be through bolted where you have access?

I have Traxtech triple trees on Traxtech track that is through bolted, I have also mounted net holders in the same tracks. The tracks are very handy for removing the triple trees & net holders when I don't need them, or for safe storage.

Good luck!

John

I don't believe a ratio of 4.2:1 is a liability. More important than ratio is retrieve rate which takes into account the ratio and spool diameter. Also, there is an ideal balance of handle length, gearing torque, and retrieve rate for diver reels that's different for rigger/planer reels. There's really not much similar between the 305 and a Tekota 600 as reels go, they're very different animals, each being just as different as the Saltist also mentioned.

When you take into account these factors, the oversize gear drive, secondary tension spool control drag system, and auto engage of main drag and top counter, you get a lot more for you're extra initial cost vs the 600. There's less cost difference if you change out the 600s drags, though they're better than the 700/800 drags.

Sent from my iPad using Lake Ontario United mobile app

JEP:

Looked up the Okuma, & it pulls in 24" of line per revolution, where the Diawa saltiest pulls in 36", which is 33% more line per revolution, as I said it really helps when you have to clear the second wire line after a big King grabs the first wire rod.  The Saltists are also very compact & sit low on the rod.  I have then on Shimano Talora roller rods, & they are perfect for my boat.

John

I think the Okuma Catalina 305-Da is the perfect wire line reel. Line counter on top where it should be, and it has a secondary drag in freespool so you can let a diver creep out under tension without having to adjust your main drag setting. Fish hits on the way out, just pick up the rod and turn the handle and main drag auto engages - you don't have to flip the lever. Drags are butter smooth right out of the box.

JEP;

Looks like a nice reel, but the retrieve ratio is only 4.2, same as the Shimano Tekota 600LC's I used to use.  The other factor with the Okuma's is price, about $40 more each than the Diawa's. I find it much quicker to pull in a dipsey with the Diawa Saltist high speed reels, & as such, now use the Shimano's as rigger, & or board reels. Of course, you need to replace the drag washers on all Tekota's. Diawa reels come with butter smooth carbon fiber drags already in them.

finsntins;

I don't have any problem with line counter interference with my hands, suggest you try holding the rod higher up on the grip,  which will give you more leverage on the fish.

John

Diawa Saltists size 30 high speed

MK6:

I have a 3,000 lb Hewitt cantilever boat lift at my dock.  I kept my Hewescraft Sea Runner 22 footer on it last summer for the first time. Worked well, but the manual lift wheel required some effort to get the boat up.  I am looking into a 24 volt remote operated system for this Spring.  I do not have a canopy on the lift, as it is free standing, & high winds could flip it, if the boat is not on it. I  travel around Lake Ontario during the year for weeks at a time, so the hoist would be empty at times.

Good Luck;

John

RM:

Never had my trailer inspected, I would worry about that only if there was an accident involving the trailer.

John

Hawk:

Did you ever turn the unit off for 15 minutes or more right after this occurs?  If so, when you turned it back on was the trouble cleared up?  If it was, might be a heat issue on the head unit, or a ducer problem. Please let us know what you find out.

Good Luck:

John

I have been using Trikfish for the last 2 years, German made & very good!

Good luck with your new boat!

John

_reillym;

_{I would just run a second board in the water, & not deal with the hassle of tangles.}

_John

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4. Scotty