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Everything posted by capt ace
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Any word on the West end Pro-Ams
capt ace replied to capt ace's topic in Tournament Talk, Shows, Events & Seminars
Thanks guys. My team has been wondering as there has been no official way to enter as of yet. There is a lot to plan to attend these things as you well know. Hope we hear something soon. -
Hey Jeff, last I knew A&P custom tackle still had some along with some of the knock-offs. His phone number is 518-283-5920
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Hey Rick, let me chime in here.I like to have all my reels filled to the top for reasons that you mentioned, but I do use dacron backing, specifically the Cabela's Musky braid.I fill all of my my wire spools off of a bulk spool of wire for both my 20lb and 30lb wires. Depending on the reels I use determines what size dacron I use. On my 20lb 600lc Shimanos I use about 800ft of 30lb dacron for backing. On my 700lc Shimanos I use 125lb test dacron for backing. The nice thing about using dacron is that it doesn't absorb water and rot like mono does so you don't have to change it every year. It lasts for a good long time. I have 600lc's that have had the same dacron backing on them since the 600lc's first came out.I do not use a 1000ft of wire to fill my reels, more like about 650ft for the 20lb rigs and 800ft for the 30lb rigs.The very few times I have been into the backing, the knots and the quality and integrity of the dacron backing stood up just fine. The money I save on not using as much wire more than pays for the dacron I use.A 10,000 ft spool of wire gives me 15 reel fills of 20lb wire. That's 5 extra reel fills. What's a 1000ft spool of wire go for now a days?(x5) AND I don't have to change or worry about my backing going bad on me! For connections with 20lb wire/30lb dacron, I use an overhand knot in the wire and then put the dacron through it and tie the dacron over the wire with a uni knot. This goes back to the Chip Porter days. For connecting wire to 125lb dacron I set the dacron up for an albright knot, put the wire through the loop and double back the wire on itself twice and pull it tight through the dacron loop, then trim. Tim Brommund is right about trying to put mono on wire, the wire will cut the mono if you pull hard on it. I have an article on my website written about using larger capacity reels and their benefits(with the math reasons why) if anyone would like to check it out. It's in my informational section.
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Longline I'm still tryimg to formulate a theory as to the cause. I know when it has happened during the season as there seems to be a time frame that is common. I'm thinking more in line with why certain attractor patterns work more better during certain times of the year.
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Flybuster can you pm me a pic. That would be awesome. I would love to have it for my article, with your permission of course.
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I am doing research for an article I'm going to write about fish coloration, specifically fish with green color pigmentation running down the top of their backs. I have seen it three times here on Lake Ontario over the years, twice on Lake Trout and once on a very mature brown trout. It is very similar to the green color used on hammertime or livewire spinnies, you know the green painted on edge. I have never seen it on cohos or kings. I was wondering if any of you have ever seen this before either on Lake Michigan or Lake Ontario on fish that you have caught? I have been in conversation with Thirsty Whaler about this phenomenon and to its causes. I would appreciate any feedback you guys could offer.
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On the copper to backing we use a spro swivel. They are getting pretty expensive!! On the leader to copper end we use an albright knot. Shrink tubing is OK on the backing end. The reason why the copper breaks on the backing end if you don't use a swivel is because of the stress that is put on the copper connection evertime it is reeled back on the spool. Because the copper has memory(twists in it), it does not always go back onto the spool the same way. The swivel allows the stress to spin out on the connection relieving the stress. Havn't seen a need for a swivel on the leader side.
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Thanks for the compliment Shadster. A friend of mine made a great analogy. He said it's just like flying a kite. They can be pretty erratic until a lot of line is let out.
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https://www.facebook.com/pages/Ace-Charters/134117926659711 Here is an article about how attractor flies behave with different setbacks. you may be surprised. My webmaster has taken I'll with be down for some time so i am not able to get my articles uploaded to my website.
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I have to tip my hat off to Bert's. I have been using them on my charters for as long as I can remember. In fact, I've had them on both of my charter boats. They are user friendly, especially for the kids. A youngster can grab the rod and pull it to a vertical position with ease. It is so much easier to get the rod out of the holder when the rod holder is vertical. Another real important consideration is that Bert's stand behind there products 100%. They have replaced rod holders for me that have taking a beating from years of dipsey and king salmon abuse with no questions asked, free of charge. I like it when I can by one product and never have to worry about having to buy it again.
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Thoughts on trolling with attractor fly set-ups
capt ace replied to capt ace's topic in Open Lake Discussion
Hi John, thanks for taking the time to read my article. i'm glad you enjoyed it. As far as speed goes, my SNT at 2.4 is the same as a Moors at 2.25mph. Fishhawks can be a little different as they are adjustable(my SNT is not). The Fishhawks I have compared to by going side by side, boat to boat, run at about 2.8mph. Rest assured that if there is a boat doing fish and I'm not, one of the things that I will do is match speed boat to boat if possible. This can be the answer at times when speed is an issue. That 2.4 speed is not carved in stone, either. It changes sometimes day to day or hour to hour. The 2.4 is just a place to start. Later in the season fishing staging kings we may troll under 2.0 mph to get bites! As far as the spacing, a lot depends on the depth of water. Typically,we like to keep them at least 10ft apart both vertically and horizontally in the column. Be advised that sometimes "less is more"!!! When running riggers we only run three and at times drop down to two if we're not getting bites. One trick that we do is to either drop or raise the other rigger when one goes off to the level the other one got bit at. This is a great way to double up on your rigger bites. Some days we only run one attractor with spoons all around it or all spoons. This is more true when the temps are up in the column and we're fishing in the thermocline. -
http://www.acecharters.com/phpform/index_article_flasher_fly.php Here's a link to an article sharing my thoughts on fishing attractors and Attomik flies. I would appreciate any feedback both positive or negative. I hope that most of you enjoy it.
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Check this out. It could help you. Remember you can always leader down for more finess. http://www.acecharters.com/phpform/inde ... rfleas.php
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http://www.acecharters.com/phpform/inde ... pacity.php Here's some food for thought.It includes some info on the Solttera.
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Profishient1, as far as blowback goes, I don't really have anything to compare it to. By that I mean when we run that deep it's almost all attractor flies and all 40lb test. I can say that the deeper you go the more the blowback is inherrent in the set-up. We usually run 15lb weights on all riggers unless we get down to that 120ft range or beyond. At that point we run a 20lb weight to the probe rigger which will run with the same amount of flare as the plain riggers with the 15lb weights. Note that come staging time when the kings are on the bottom down a 100ft or so we troll at slower speeds. One of the ways we can tell is that the rigger cables are usually straight down in one direction and a little flare going in the opposite direction due to underwater currents. When that happens we let out about 5-8ft more cable to compensate for that effect.
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http://www.acecharters.com/article_waterflies.html Here's a link to an article we just did on this subject. Note that you can always leader down past where the line comes out of the release for lighter line applications.
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King Of The Lake
capt ace replied to get it wet's topic in Tournament Talk, Shows, Events & Seminars
Screamer and Yankee, this is what happens to your brain when you look into the UV190 fly without the proper eye protection. And remember David, here comes the bride!!!!!!!!!! -
King Of The Lake
capt ace replied to get it wet's topic in Tournament Talk, Shows, Events & Seminars
Yahoo. Can't wait to get after it. -
Pro-Am Tournaments in 2013
capt ace replied to Finders Keepers's topic in Tournament Talk, Shows, Events & Seminars
First off, most of the guys I have fished with as team members really didn't care wether it was open or closed communication. I personally don't care. Either way is OK. What we do care about is having consistentcy. If we sign up for a tournament that allows open communication, then so be it. Same if it's closed communication. There seems to be a faction that wants closed communication and is blaming the demise of the pro-ams because of the lack of it.(open communication being the rule) Now riddle me this. Why was it that when it was put to a vote as to wether or not to have open communication for the calcutta at Oak Orchard via a public vote initiated by Bob Songin, the majority of the calcutta participants voted for open communication? I'll repeat! The majority of active participants voted for Open communication. Again, I'll personally go on the record that I don't care if it's open or closed as long as it's stated in the rules at the beginning of the tournament and adherred to. At one of the legs of the pro-am this year the calcutta was closed communication only. As it turned out we fished it along with about 14 other boats. If my memory serves me corectly, there were more boats not in the calcutta fishing against those of us that were in it. -
downrigger speed n temp question
capt ace replied to cheese's topic in Questions About Trout & Salmon Trolling?
That reading is most likely right on the money due to blowback in the cable and the lighter weight on your rigger ball. The cannon snt gives actual vertical depth in the column below the boat. It reads off of a pressure sensor. I have checked it at rest and the pressure gauges are pretty accurate. Cannon snt is the only unit on the market that gives actual depth. It's a great unit when it works. Adding 15lb sharks will cut the blowback down. This past week I had a 20lb shark out at 135ft to get an actual depth of 111 ft in the column. With the 15lb shark I had to put out 150ft to get to the same depth of 111ft. I had a top speed trolling west of 3.5mph to get 2.4 at the ball. Trolling due east I had 2.6 on top to get 2.4 at the ball and had to raise the riggers 10ft to get back to 111ft in the column. -
downrigger speed n temp question
capt ace replied to cheese's topic in Questions About Trout & Salmon Trolling?
That reading is most likely right on the money due to blowback in the cable. The cannon snt gives actual vertical depth in the column below the boat. It reads off of a pressure sensor. I have checked it at rest and the pressure gauges are pretty accurate. Cannon snt is the only unit on the market that gives actual depth. It's a great unit when it works. -
I was so impressed last year with the Tuna upgrades on my Shimanos that now all of my reels have them. There is a trick with the Shimanos that you have to watch out for. It involves the click pin. Definately check out the schematic for these reels and any videos that you can find on the process. You tube is a good place to look. If your not comfortable doing it on your own, Tuna Tom's does an excellent job of installing them. The problem with the larger Shimanos is that the larger disc drags hydrolock as the grease is sqeezed out from between the drag washers when the drags are tightened down. They will not release on their own. A few years back, Capt. Andy Bliss told me how to fix this by backing the drag star off and then thumb the spool while cranking the handle to free up the hydrolocked drag washers. After installing the Tuna drags, this is not neccessary as the dry drags release on their own when the star is backed off. There is also much more incremental adjustment with the dry drag system. No more kicking yourself in the butt for loosing a fish because you forgot to use Andy's process for setting up the wet stock drags when a monster king smashes your copper off of the big boards and breaks everything.