skipper19

Yes it is a good way to segment the copper if you have the time and patience for the process. You could segment any length you want and have no knots and a way to use the pinch pads without hurting the copper at all. I also have used dental floss attached to the copper with a D loop like a bowstring would have. I use that for my outrigger releases and it does not hurt the copper at all because it puts a nice gentle bend at the release and two points of pulling.

:lol:Used to be Shock Top and chips, and a brisket on the smoker..15 hours. I'd run out of beer and chips get bored and do fact finding missions. Now it's water and celery.....stupid diet!. .I got 300 calories left..ice cream or beer...:unsure:...both! Shock top has 224 calories in one 12 oz, stupid diet. ..fact finding grrr!

Yup! Most everyone uses the little spro, and it has proven itself over time. I learned the hard way that braid to copper is no good. I even thought I could improve on it to work better by doubling the braid albright, but it didn't matter, the copper got pinched more and more on each pull until the copper broke above the knot at 20 or less lb pull on 32 or 45 lb copper. That is the time bomb!It got worse when the knot was wetted. Darn fish live in the water! The video is good. I have played with variables and got to really good setup that is so trustworthy I don't even check the transition any more. What's even nicer is when you loose 200 feet off your 300 on a mid section break, you can easily splice back a new 200 foot section, AND, have a new spot to attach a release without on the copper itself!

Yes! Good! A very good way also!

You are welcome, if you want to try it, PM me and I'll help you with more specific details. They used Cortland C16 but I found Power pro Hollow Ace much easier to work with. Special simple tools are necessary for the operation. They are or were available at Fat Nancy tackle. On line you can get the "Da Ho" needle as well from tackle direct site I believe. A bobbin is handy for the serving. I use a fly tying one.

It would be good to get rid of that Albright to copper. Like a ticking time bomb that can't be predicted. Unfortunately the only time it fails is on a nice hard running fish. The spro is much better. Do you use the haywire on the copper?

Sorry....ahem, but wishin fishin asked me specifically what ...I do....it's not for everyone. It does work, and everyone has their way of doing things. If you would like to offer the spro connection as an alternative, please feel free. This excursion on this particular thread and disperages to efforts to help anyone in my experiences with some things I have found new and useful, and to almost all of its misunderstandings has led me to think some of you are to anal..yze about tried and true methods. Offering improved methods I have hand tried, and DO WORK are what I have done. Offer your own in detail, if you have them but please don't sh!T on mine....done....

Everyone I know uses spro but ya still got a knot! Haywire or what everIn my case, since using the hollow core, I've never lost any fish due to a knot connection on copper. The Albright is a good knot. Just not on soft copper. The haywire is good but it's thick. Keep using the spro if it works! I just like smmmooothhh.LMFAO! TOO! HHHAAAHAAA AHAA!

Mono, flouro are softer components and also more mass area than braid in 30lb category in a finished albright. So it's not as abusive as braid on soft copper. Steel for divers is way different doesn't possess the weaknesses of copper. I use the hollow core on the leader end for 3 reasons. 1 it's permanent and never needs a knot scrutiny. 2 No knot catching guides, it flows out and in with no bump. 3 I can change leaders quickly with loop to loop connection

http://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishing-hunting/index.php?/topic/21862-New-Power-pro-hollow-ace-braid?This was from April 2011 on here. I've been doing this ever since and never a failure. Check the imbedded u tube video.

I used to use the Albright on the backing and a couple occasions the copper (32lb) broke at the backing on hard charging kings. I thought it was knot failure. I found the knot was intact and so was the copper inside of it. When I tested different forms of Albright the results were the same. The copper broke right behind the knot, not in the middle. The Albright gets very tight at the top of its grip and as it got tighter over a series of pulls it pinched and stretched that spot just above the top of the winds of the knot. Broke there every time.I use something that no one I know uses. Mostly because it's not a simple task of tying a knot, because there is no knot. It's the use of hollow core braid to the copper connection and the leader also. It's tedious so most don't bother with it, but this retains 100% tensile strength of lines used to make transitions. No knot, easy through the guides and no trouble on any reel. There are many, many advantages to it. The hollow core grips the copper over a spread of 6 or 7 feet like a finger trap. It can't come out. The end of the hollow core is served with braid line to keep it from fraying. The other end can be fed back into itself to form a loop, or tie a loop as I do for mine. The copper now has no knots involved and the braid is the only part that has knots to form loops. Then it's simple loop to loop connection there. The hollow core is 80lb power pro called Hollow Ace. Very strong no knot on the copper. Again, it's tedious, and if you do have any failure out on the water, it's not easy to assemble in the boat. Your only recourse is to go back to the Albright to continue fishing with that rig. However the failure will never be a knot connection on the copper itself. Mark

Exactly, and Albright is the same thing, because they constrict and braid is effective at cutting copper and itself too..

This is my Daiwa Seagate 60, one of two. Both done with the calculating spread sheet, one was loaded with 900 feet 30# power pro and 600 feet of 32 lb blood run copper. The reel is nice and full. The other done with the same calculator and looks exactly like this one, has 900 feet power pro 30# and 400 feet of 45 lb blood run copper. Both accurately measured with laser and filled perfectly using the formula. No guessing, no waste of money and no shorter copper than you really wanted or excessive space left on the spool. I could have used 50 lb braid and had the same copper but shorter backing...how much? I wouldn't know without the calculation, but I find the use of 50 lb backing pointless, and space wasting, when braid is under rated on tensile strength usually by 135 to 165 percent anyway. Knot strength is the weak point in braid and what counts in the real world of use in fishing. Good, careful knots are essential in retaining higher percentage of breaking point in braid lines. Most manufacturers of braid take this into consideration, and rate their braid according to knot strength breaking point, and NOT the tensile strength. So tie good knots! Mark

Nice collection! Making music is as much fun as fishin for me! Good addictions.

I see a strat! In the middle, is that a Les Paul on the right? Not sure what the other is..Marshal ..yes!We should get an LOU orchestra going! "Fish on! Fish on! Wind your line ,ya gotta make it whirl, ya can't catch a king reelin like a little girl!"