skipper19

Awe jeeze!

Put a pulley on the weight. Hold one end fixed on the boom. The other end on the rigger reel....works on my come along ...blow back could be wicked but ya should be able to hoist 24lb ball with same effort

Good post!..exactly what I had in mind with the short copper trick I started using recently. It's pretty close to the original depth of the downrigger weight. The down rigger is the most accurate way of knowing your first baits perceived depth, on screen and by counter. The copper is pretty consistent, and without the benefit of remote sensors, in a short 100 feet of duplication of the ball depth, when attached to a cable release on that downrigger 20 feet above the ball. It will be along the same path in 27 seconds at 2.5mph after the first bait passes on the downrigger. A couple of nice extras that run inside of dipsy and out of the way for most applications. The only thing is a fish from the downrigger lure can and sometimes does cross the copper before you can drop it quick to depths out of the way of harm. The screen of the fish finder is a help in locating fish in consistent patterns, it is a tool to get you started in the right column of water. You just have to know how to comand your spread effectively to exploit it to your advantage. Longer the lines, dipsey and long coppers, lead core, and bare mono, the less accurate control over the exploitation. There is what I can see an advantage to a depth sensor on the spread, long lines.

Most big store marine rigging supplies have them or can get them. They work the same for salt or fresh water. Just need to find a set that works for your size boat. They range from 15 foot to over 30 foot. The TACO brand that we talked about here, is a nice easy fit, mine 15 foot, FleetTracker has 18 foot, easy removal poles that can telescope out sections to full length. Most of these type are the 15 to 18 foot range. The longer they get the more truss and gusset sections are used for rigidity as on most larger boats of 30 feet or more.

Golf course :huh:...I only usually see one guy out there in a big 30,000 lb 8 wheel drive cart! He sure ruins a lot of fairways in an hour! ..maybe I should ask him to turn over my garage into a new one >_>..seems after he goes around for a while new stuff pops right back up!..:blink:

That's the best setup I've had for a "tailgun" second shot, only I use a 100 foot copper now, instead of the dipsey. I attach the copper backing in a Scotty cable release 15 to 20 feet above the ball. The lookers often at the ball will drop back as noted, and see the second offer as a feeding salmon (large flasher and fly) and might see the fly as a wounded miss. Also I believe fish that pod or school are greatly affected by the herd mentality. In essence if one is feeding, others will feed triggered by actions of the others as it developes into a frenzy type of feed. Competition on a single bait can trigger some of the most vicious strikes in most fish, hence the main purpose of the flasher.The copper flasher and fly, is running in direct line of the main rigger bait, a spoon, and it can find that same fish that followed and dropped back and trigger the strike on the fly or meat in competition with the flasher. One advantage of the copper flasher and fly, on the cable, is that it can be dropped quickly on the cable 50 or more feet when a fish strikes the spoon, to keep it out of the way, still running down deep. When the rigger fish comes to the boat the copper is pulled from the release and set in a rod holder, in order to let it run until the fish is in the cooler. Then the ball is brought up while the copper is running free, reset the ball rod and lower it back to 15 to 20 feet and reel up the now drifting copper to the backing connection, reset it on the cable, and send it all back down. The advantage of the copper drifting back there during all this time of netting, icing, and reseting, can grab another hit as it drifts up from the deep and runs free. Saves bringing in the last 100 feet to have to reset a dipsy. Yes it is a form of stacking lines on a downrigger, with some disadvantages in deployment of two rods on a rigger at once, but it is a very effective tailgun bait 100 feet behind the first offerings at the ball, and you can change the depth easily by setting higher or lower on the cable from the ball. The 100 copper will naturally run most baits about 20 to 22 feet deeper than the distance between the ball and the cable release set on the copper backing. Great strike inducer for what we find to be curious lookers, but it's still a pea sized brain we can't begin to understand, even though it is a prehistoric pattern that seems should be easy to figure out.:blink::blink::huh:... Mark

Yeah I know...my boat is kind of open on top..:unsure: The shop is vintage late 1800..there's trees for rafters in there. Someone skidded of the road and went through the side corner a year ago. It's pretty tough, but yeah, needs a roof all the way. Maybe cheaper to install a nice new garage with a door high enough to get inside with the boat and the KW....BRING YOUR NAIL GUN!

You are very welcome! That's a nice addition that you will come to appreciate for convenience and fun! I have been thinking about new poles for mine that are 18 feet. Also would like to get the 380 mounts for the ease of elevation adjustments without the climb. After you get the poles mounted, be sure to figure the best places for anchoring the Bungee and roller for fishing and running as well. I have a couple places around the T top for running attachments depending on the height of my poles. I usually run at speed with them about like the picture of the boat in the driveway, and fish with them either flat out for dipsey or elevated for the coppers and long lines. I also have a spot on my bow rail that serves for anchoring the Bungee and roller to fish with. Most importantly I can think of one more thing about the fishing position and that is to be sure the rigging halyard is made the right length for easy access to your release without leaning out of the boat to reach it and also have enough tension on the Bungee to keep the halyard taught. You could fish with it anchored to the hard top, but it is a reach up, and your rigging is overhead which on a boat of your style with a cabin is not so bad, but on my center console it is in the way for forward movement with a rod in hand, and makes netting a fish difficult with a dipsy rig unless hand lining the leader in. The gunnel mount position is out of the way and does not interfere with most things.If you have never used a dipsey on a rigger, be sure to line it out above the water on the release and halyard. Like Les pointed out, run it over the arm of the blacks and keep the dipsey out of the water above the surface all the way out to the tip of the rigger pole, then drop it in the water and pay out your preferred counter distance set at zero while at the end of the rigger. If you drop the diver in before running it out you will have too much drag on the halyard to run it out. You just let the fishing line run over the arm of the blacks. Les was right on about the set of the release, and you just set your drag like normal just a little more than what will creep out of the reel. Turns will need some more drag as there is significantly more speed gain on the outside pole of the turn, and opposit that on the inside, nearly a stall, so a turn is a little more delicate with the dipsey rigs. I use Fireline fused original 30 lb to run over the blacks arm without trouble, and it is very flea resistant.

I'll let someone else do this one...hint, it's not a cinch nor a spoon made by Cush! ..

Good idea but a pontoon would be able to stay afloat!

The 280 grand slam. I think the basically have the same tube for the base as the 380. The 380 is nice if you can't access the top side easily and safer too in rough water... no climbing the gunnels. Here's a pic of mine that broke...again though, I have a propensity for aerial flight for fun in rough water LOL! half the fun of getting there!I tapped it up for the welder to see the correct alignment.

I've had the 15 foot TACO aluminum extention poles for several years now. There are some tips I can give you that will potentially avoid some troubles with the poles and I have had a problem with one of the mounts. First the poles have spring loaded snap out buttons that secure the extention sections in place. That can get misaligned inside the tubes, and are a bit ch to get them to align. Most times they are ok but this has happened on dark mornings and can cause some anxiety! I would lube the sliding parts often, however use something that doesn't wash out with water. In order to avoid trouble with all the extention sections, I only shrink up the first large section for transport on the road.The advantages of that are less to set up and less halyard line to secure up for travel. The only trouble with the mount I have was the tube that holds the base of the pole broke off at the weld. (ROUGH WATER AND HIGH SPEED CONSTANT VIBRATION)...:o It was clean break and easy to fix with a trip to my local welding shop. It is a stainless part. I have used them mostly for running coppers of any length. Some for getting a wide high dipsey out and run three a side on calm days. Most of all they are great for shallow water long lines in spring or high holding fish. I really never like fishing planner boards just because it's something extra to have to work with in the water. Can't beat maneuver with the outriggers. You can most times turn around pretty quickly to retrieve a stuck lure on the bottom. You can run the rigger high and back so the lines are out of the water far behind close sets off the down riggers avoiding tangles and netting fish. They do shine in rough water. I love them for long coppers and have the coppers marked every 100 feet with dental floss for attachment points to the blacks release. That way I can run the copper any length out I want. A 600 copper can be set on the floss at 100, 200, 300, 400 or all out on the backing. I like running 32 lb and 45 lb high angle, 11 feet off the surface and back even with stern at the same time and get 2 different planes of travel in the troll to help separation of them. If you like 60 lb copper you can run it in the chute off the stern. I don't recommend using wide dipsey sets with the coppers out the riggers though. A number 1 setting is fine most of the time but never a guarantee of a fish taking it outside the copper. 18 foot poles could be an advantage here? As for releases, I used the blacks, went to Aftco roller release, then back to blacks again. The roller releases worked fair, but they did not work for copper in direct contact as I would have liked. For dipsey on a wire I don't have any confidence either for the same reason. It breaks the copper eventually and even more so when in rough water. Dipsey on a braid is ok, but I didn't like the adjustable tension of the release, they are tough to guage. I didn't like the dexterity needed to set the line in it, and one of the releases broke loosing the wheel out of it. Back to blacks. The floss on the copper takes the abuse of the contact with the release and not the copper. No more problems with that. The dipsey just runs over the release arm on braid, not wire, and runs out fine that way. Halyard rigging is important. That kit that Taco sell is just ok...not good or best. The line doesn't last long, the Bungee roller is ok, but the whole thing seems cheap for the price. I used some parachute cord with good results, a bit heavy but works. An adjustable tarp style Bungee cord with the ball on one end really works good for different halyard anchor locations on the gunnel or top using a small loop bracket attached where convenient for your use. I have started looking at sailing cord for the halyard and think that is better than paracord but not yet evaluated it. There are some sailing cords that come in 1.8mm dyneema and seem strong and light enough to do some fishing. Colors too! If nothing else the riggers are cool to fly flags off of! However I always try to use them since they are there and they need some use to justify the expense, in my book. Some pics may help here and the floss idea is great! Just tie a D loop like your bow string would have for your arrow nock. It won't slip, and you can color it with permanent marker for different distances. I set my floss so when the release is closed on the floss, the copper is in the water surface at the exact length I want it trolling from the contact of the surface. 100 feet, plus the length to the release when 11 feet above the water on the end of the outrigger. Mark

I saw that too!..lol! Not a functional integrity of the boat, but I know some guys who think of bringing that out of the convenience store before I pay for gas!..:rolleyes:

HO. .ho ho :huh: :blink:...

Well he certainly had time to spread those good genes around. Many future trophies to come! Feed your does!