skipper19

I used to hunt Delaware County. There was 1000s of acres to hunt and on top of the mountain there was land that some logging company bought and then leased it to some down state city hunters. I would be out the day before gun season hunting bow and all day they would be up there...bang bang bang..boom bang..all kinds of stuff including rata tattatttatatatat...BOOM!.. THEY not only brought their deer guns but all forms of play toys too! Their one weekend and weekday off from the city grind and they partied and banged away. Next day they were silent..saw one of then standing on the property line and went to say hi. He has a huge rifle..barrel was pointed toward me enough that I had to ask him to please not aim at me with that thing.."what is that" I asked. He said 375 h and h. I said "last I checked there wasn't any elephants around these parts". He said no kidding..I haven't seen any deer yet either. "Jeeze", I said, "wonder why?"..little did he know they were all chased off that prime piece of land, down the side of the mountain where me and a friend hunted. They put so many deer down there it was like spawning season run of salmon. The smell of alcohol was plenty. Must be they never get away from the old lady long enough in their life to do all things separately. Get em all done in one weekend. Drink, shoot every gun they own, and hunt one day. Freaking unreal. :blink::blink::unsure::rolleyes:

I had never used braid of any kind for casting before beach fishing the OBX surf last month. I ordered super 8 slick and that's the only line I used. The Teach's Lair tackle shop recommended Fireline crystal I think...when I asked what works for the surf. Didn't get a chance to try it as they were low on the bulk spool. What I found was, super slick worked on certain rods. Other rods were a disaster of wind knots. Lost two rigs with crack off :angry:...the other rods were excellent with it. Got to be the rods guide characteristics :huh: Nano fill will be on the list to try on those trouble rods. See if it is rod that is truly the same problem. Wish I was still down there with toes in the sand drink in the hand...tossing 8nbait!

Thanks for the report back!

I searched online for a trajectory chart but could only find amount of drop at different ranges. Nothing that showed a trajectory line for the Remington copper sabot. Amount of drop has little value on a certain firearm but only serves data to compare to a different round. The path of travel and zero at long range would be useful if someone recorded it. Just not been able to find one.

You are welcome! I've burned a lot of gun powder in my time. It's been a passion of mine for attaining accuracy and doing it without a lot of frustration and more powder being burnt! Glad the shop was able to do the bore sight for you! That saves you from having a kit laying around waiting until the next firearm or next scope. It is mostly a one time operation unless something is changed with the firearm or scope in disassembly or components.You should be good to go and fine tune that shotgun now. Just remember that your first shot is your reference point in order to finely adjust to center shot of the cross hairs on the second shot. Bring some good sand bags or a bench rest. Have a good comfortable platform to shoot from like a picnic table. 1 Steady the gun in the bags or rest after your first shot. 2 settle the crosshairs on the center bullseye, gun resting solidly. 3 move the adjusting turrets with gun resting very still, until they intersect the first shot impact. 4 be sure the gun did not move at all 5 now take your next carefully aimed shot at the center bull and you should be perfectly center bull impact...if you did not move the gun in step 3..and step 4 That's it! 2 shots at 25 yards. Then do the same at 100 through all previous steps! With luck your 3rd round will be center bull at 100 if not follow the steps again and your 4th round should be all that's needed. Now it's practice at 100 for confidence and gain data on longer ranges just for fun. Try some different cartridges later and see if other brands work better. Some will, some get worse, believe me I know no two brands will compare equally. Just for now, this close to season, stick with what you know you can do within the capabilities of the gun, cartridge, and yourself. Range time is fun on the off season, and you can learn a lot from experience. Shoot straight and shoot often!

I have an older Lone Wolf aluminum sit and climb. It's about 20 lbs. Rated for 300 lbs.. (me 310...boots and nothing else) wait...that's Ray. I'm comfortable with it. It is very quiet, easy to pack and set up, has its own bow holder and pockets for putting brush branches to hide in. Been using it for years trouble free. It does not have the most comfortable seat, but the new ones are much more creature friendly. Only draw back, price, but you can't break it and it is quality. My son has summit and he likes his as well, but I think mine packs easier than his.

This is an illustration of a 308 winchester 168 grain bullet and it's path of trajectory. This is not the same as a shotgun at all, but I can't find a chart for the specific Guage and round of use. This shows a good idea of what we are looking at in terms of line of sight and how the bullets path looks as it exists the barrel 1.5 inches below the scope reticle and travels to the target when the scope is aligned on the bullseye. You see the first crossing of the line of sight at 20 yards for this particular round. It is called the point blank sighted range. Then the bullet rises above the line of sight and that is the mid range rise to the second point of crossing the line of sight. That is called the long range sighted zero. In this case it is 250 yards for this round and it's velocity and weight. Your shotgun round will do the same thing in its path, only vary by its velocity and weight also. Since I couldn't find a point blank zero for the 20 guage 2 3/4 copper sabot, I would still use the 25 yard target distance to be close enough for 100 yard long range zero. At least you will be in line with bullseye on windage (side to side) and only have to make minor adjustments to elevation (up or down). Every caliber has a different point blank range in relation to the long range zero at 100, but most fall between 23 to 28. I would say 25 as a good starting point for the 20 guage round. I have a .22-250 rifle that has a point blank range of 27 yards for a long range zero of 300 yards for instance. That is an extremely fast round and light bullet with very little vertical drop over time and space. The 20 guage slug is heavy and slow in comparison and therefore it's going to max out the zero long range near 100 yards. Hope this helps you see how this works. I wish I could tell you a more precise point blank range for your round. It might be 24 yards or 26..but 25 yards will get on the paper and less time and expense starting at 100 yards.

With the pump shotgun, yes a bore sighters will be a great asset in saving ammo at the sight in. The laser style is great at the range and will work fine at first line of sight crossing. The other is the grid projection and you simply make sure the pilot rod is snug in the bore, fully seated and everything tight holding the projection grid. Just move the cross hair to the center of the grid on 0. Most of these type are ones that will get you on target at 100 yards. There are charts that show distance to first line of sight crossing for specific rounds and calibers to achieve bullseye at 100 yards. I'll see if I can locate one for the 20 ga. Remington Coppers. Not sure if you are using 3 inch or 2 3/4 shells but I don't think it would vary much between the two.

Yes exactly. Your line of sight to the target is level..your bullet is travelling an arc as it fights gravity over distance and time. The bullets arc will cross your sight line at a point about 25 yards and rise just a couple inches above your sight line at mid trajectory (50 yards roughly) and at that mid range you would not have to worry about holding low to harvest a deer. The kill zone is a pie plate size and you will be well within that if you aim dead on your intended bullseye. Maybe only 2 inches high..no worry for that. Now your bullet downrange at 100 yards falls back to your line of sight, hits the bullseye there, and it will continue to drop at a progressive rate that increases as velocity decreases. The amount of drop at say 150 yards will be something you would gather data on when you shoot that far, as you see how the rounds perform at the range and sufficient trigger time to see the performance. Then you could move on to longer yardage but that's another story and time spent behind the gun at the range.

I should explain bore sighting more in detail. No ammo is used in the process of aligning your scope cross hair with the bore of your firearms in an effort to place the first round on the target. Not doing this bore sighting first, will likely miss the entire target and anything less than a sheet of plywood at 100 yards..leaving you clueless to the point of impact and moving closer and firing way too many rounds to accomplish zero. There are tools you can buy for many calibers and Guage of firearms. They are kit form and do not require taking the gun to the range to zero the gun close to the bullseye for the first shot. They are called..."bore sighters"..but cost a bit of money as they are a somewhat precision instrument. Some use laser beams and some use a grid projection that you see in the scope when it is mounted to the bore of the muzzle. You can do this without the tool if you have a rifle or shotgun that has an open chamber to look through the barrel from the breach end towards the muzzle. That would be a break open action or bolt action. A pump shotgun or lever action will need the tool however. If you have the bolt removed or the break open single shot chamber open, you can bore sight by looking down the barrel at an object centered in the barrel some distance away. I do mine at night at home. I use a street light or a bright object you can see when looking through the barrel. It can be a quarter mile away but I center it in the barrel of the gun while it is resting on sand bags, or blankets or what ever will hold the gun steady and not move at all. That is important! Once the light is centered in the barrel I CAREFULLY WITHOUT MOVING THE GUN, align the windage and elevation of the cross hair on the street light....done. check the bore of the barrel once again to be sure the object is centered in the bore and check again to be sure the cross hair is also on the object. Daytime you can just use your sighting target at the range to do this. One shot, it's on the target, very close to bullseye and you only need to make one more adjustments on the scope to fire the next round in the bullseye. Where ever your bullet strikes the target, you simply rest your gun solid without moving it and center the cross hair on the bullseye of the target. CAREFULLY AGAIN WITHOUT MOVING THE GUN AT ALL, adjust the windage and elevation to the center of the bullet impact you just fired. Fire the second round sighted at the bullseye and you should be done with a impact on the bullseye. I would do this at 25 yards. Then do the 100 yard check and any minor fine tune at that distance. 3 or 4 rounds top used for this method. You could use a lot more on another way of just lobbing rounds to get zero, but 25 dollars for 5 rounds it gets expensive! Mark PS ...I edited this after I discovered a little backwards explain on the scope adjust at the range and shooting your first rounds to sight in. It now reads correct.

I would sight for 100yds. Reason is if it is dead on at 100, it will also be dead on at 25 or very close..line of sight and trajectory cross at those two points. Then at 50 yards you will only be a couple inches high on bullseye. Now you don't have to guess at hold over so much in case you see that trophy in the open. He might be 150 yards and you will still be in the park with a few inches hold over. Sighting at 50 would limit your success just in that case because hold over becomes more pronounced at 100 yards beyond your zero when set at 50 yards. Zero your first shots at 25 after bore sighting. You should be very close to zero at 100 yards then. Ammo is expensive...especially those coppers.

Ray, you better bring your tin foil hat, microwave energy from those antennas are bad for for ya. You might wanna lower yer stand to the first girder. Oxygen is thin too. Hey, but at least you won't be mistaken for a bear in a tree.. Mexican bamboo...huh..so that's what the code word is...we used to call it grass. Planted it one year for a food plot, but, it never seemed to attract deer the way it should. Folks kept staggering in and out of it and it wouldn't grow, man... Seriously, I hope your hunt is a great success, and you are blessed with the luck of the ancients. You got the bloodstream goodies, so you should be able to give us all some some more good, dead animal pics! Stay safe, and have a great hunt my friend! I'm trying to leave them off the bumper of the K (deer) Whopper for ya..seems like they would be able to dodge a thing the size of a house only going 88 feet per second...better than a stick flying near 300 fps...:blink:...:huh: Get that big un, baldy! Good luck! Skippy

Intruder Alert! Shut up! I'm just a tree!

Power pro 30lb super slick. 375 feet off a Penn 7500 long cast reel with a 4oz weight tossed on a 12 ft medium surf rod. No problems. Same with a Tica Samira 9 ft fast action rod and shimano ultegra long cast reel. Rod guides are key more than anything with braid. I had one rod a 10 Foot penn Newport, and every cast had a wind knot 30 feet from the lure. Other than that,the line flies off the rod like a bullet.

Looks about like this! Only worse! Lol! Hatteras inlet last week

I'm not sure that they stopped taking the pens out of the estuary, but they don't go out far, as I assume for the reason of the cold water and essentially no real aquatic food source for them. Just wondering about a more time release way of letting them out of the pen. Possibly moving them when temps warm more at different zones out from shore. Problem is though there is no real predictions for how that temperate zone will fluctuate with weather and wind. Something that would have to be monitored constantly and be proactive in moving the pens in and out of the preferred zones...even maybe moving them back to the estuaries temporarily.

I don't think the baby pen salmon would survive a deep water release into ice cold water without nutrients. Besides, if they did I'm sure they would quickly figure out to get back to warmer more rich waters where all the predation is taking place by birds and other pelagic species trying to get a feast after a cold winter. That zone is also where we concentrate our fishing activity. I wonder if keeping the babies in the pen a month longer or more and move the pen slowly to different zones as the water warms in a progressive manner to give them a better chance to assimilate to open water life. Of course feeding would have to be done and it's a challenge that would require a boat and folks to go out there all the time to monitor temp and feed, but would keep the Salmon safe from predators until they can be released in deeper water to fend for themselves on a better size to cope with their challenges...and yes the cormorants are a big problem. They used to oil the eggs on Little Galloo island. Not sure they are doing that so much lately.

This gave me a buzz!..Dirty Bastard Scotch Ale..tastes pretty good but WHAM! Not for the guy having more than one...ok maybe two. A nice amber red but slightly heavy ale. IT IS STRONG!...and I am getting comfortably numb. It's not Gator Tail...that's just the glass I had in the freezer. Founders Brewers Grand Rapids Mi.

It's a lot easier to push a wire than to push a rope. Sounds strange, but logical, and that's how a lower spine works against you to push weight forward arrows. The thrust generated by an excessively ramped cam in the shape of a "hatchet" will cause the low spine arrow to bend like the rope pushing some weight at the end going forward. High spine strength will lessen that bending like the wire pushing weight at the end going forward.Less oscillating spine on thrust launch of the string equals less energy loss due to flex of the shaft. Less flight correcting by the fetching. Perfect straight flight is the ideal energy and velocity saving benefit going downrange on impact, thereby increasing penetration on the target. I think...:unsure:..

No and I wouldn't. Too many times I've observed deer paying very particular attention to the drapery in their territory. They do notice a change (late shooting lane cuts) etc...in the case of knowing the branch is there and getting used frequently ...I'd move a stand to that spot and not move the drapery.