Mickey Finn

I read on here somewhere that the 21 foot rule is "length on the water line". I can't find that anywhere in the regs. It just says boats under 21 feet. Are they sticking to the 21 feet overall or are they actually measuring the later line length? Mine is 22 feet from bow to stern, so it would be nice to know how they are enforcing it. If it's going to be the water line length, they should state that in the rule. Anyway, has anyone had any experience with this yet?

Reel Fun, There's a 92 on the Penn Yan site that looks good. Maybe you saw it? http://www.pennyanboats.com/fiberglass.htm

The answer would be "D" ... All of the above. Not ever a good idea to connect any wiring to the battery without fusing.

I'd say definately worth it. Some days, especially in clear water, the lines out away from the boat do all the fish. It also lets you get your lines in the shallow water without having to run the boat in there and chance a broken prop.

A friend of mine has one of these. They handle the waves very well for a 19 foot boat.

In reference to Visual Distress Signals: I was under the impression that for non-charter boats the 12 guage red meteor flares was all that was required. It says 3 for day time and 3 for night time in the regs above. It says that they are approved for day and night use. Does that mean you need six of them, even thought they are for day and night or will three of them cover you? Anyone know the answer to this? http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... sNum=11401

Definately go with the Cannons or Klinchers. I've never had one fail but I lost quite a few weights when I was using crimp terminators. The modified Klincher pictured works very well for my probe. I picked that idea up on this sight last year. Thanks for that!

Slow speeds like this are fine as long as you are getting fish. If you're not, don't be afraid to pick it up. I can't tell you how many fish I've caught while reeling in a line to check or change a lure. If you're not hitting fish, keep picking it up a couple tenths at a time up to 3.0 or even faster. I've caught browns at over 3.5 many times, even in cold water. At this time of year, fish will be pocketed and you've got to find them. 3.0mph will get you to them faster than 2.0mph. Just make sure you're sticks are tuned or you are pulling spoons that will take that speed. When you find them, don't leave them till you've made a few passes without a strike.

I've got too many 11 inch flashers. Selling a dozen of them for $70 which includes shipping. Money order or bank cashiers check only.

RodBuster, You are correct about staggering the lines. I'm a fan of long lines and usually start with them back a couple hundred feet because I find I have more hookups back there, especially in clear water. I will run shorter in colored water but usually I run them way back. I like to troll fast, so I don't have much trouble hooking fish, and of course I sharpen every hook. Starting that far back gives me more releases before they start to get too short. I usually have a minimum setback and stop staggering them when I reach that point. If the rods are still firing and I'm not getting tangles, I just keep setting them at that distance, but if things slow or I get messes, I reset to my original setup. I just find that its too easy to get tangles if I don't stagger them, especially if I'm quartering the waves or trolling in the through. I love the clipper releases. I have 18 of them strung on each tow line. I run the tow line through the larger holes in the side instead of the smaller hole that you use. I find that they slide down the tow line easier. It was kind of a pain, but I put a short piece of copper tubing through each one, which prevents the tow line from cutting slots in the release and it helps them slide out the line better. I'm soon going to change them out with some new ones and I think I'll try to glue in a piece of plastic tubing instead of copper, if I can find something. That will make them lighter. I use a bead chain swivel about 8 feet up from the lure like you were saying and then I put a split shot in front of it to collect the weeds and stuff. You have to be careful of putting your swivel too far up the line or you won't be able to reach the fish with the net, unless you have a boat full of experienced anglers. Another thing that I do is to snap a release like an Offshore downrigger release onto my tow line a couple feet up from the planer board. This acts as a stop for any releases that have slid down to the tow board after a strike. I'm always fearing that my tow board will break off, most likely next to the knot, and I would loose all my releases. When I used to use the shower curtain rings, I've had them slide down over the eyebolt if I wasn't paying attention when letting the line out, and usually you can't get them to slip back over the eyebolt without pulling the line out of the release. This will help prevent that situation too if you are using the shower curtain rings.

How true! Wish I had the money back I spent on all the lures I don't use. I'd have enough to buy several each of all the ones I do use!

I prefer stick baits myself but lots of guys have good luck with spoons like stingers, cleos, Northern King C5's just to name a few. I use a mix of Jr Thundersticks, Yo Zuri crystal minnows, Rapalas. I like natural colors like Black/silver, Blue/silver, Bleeding Shad for clear water and colors like fire tiger, chartruese, orange, perch and such in colored water.

You're going to get a lot of different answers on this one. For me it depends on water clarity. I sometimes run them back about 100 feet in colored water and will put them back as much as 250 in clear water. I usually put each line 10 or 20 feet shorter than the previos line out. That just helps get the fish by the other lines when realing it in. Your outside lines will automatically be further back anyway due to the angle of your tow line, so if it's not to rough and windy, I will sometimes run them all the same length.

Your money will be in the mail tomorrow morning. Thanks

Ok, I'll take the rest of them. I sent you another pm for the rest of the details.

sent another pm.

I run them behind my dual super ski boards and don't have any problems. I don't know how they would pull behind inline boards. As for depth, I too figured about 20 feet for 100 to 125 feet back. They also have the deeper disc which is a little bit bigger and will get you a little more depth.

Sent you a pm.

You got to be careful if you put a picture on here of a pretty girl. I posted a picture of my downrigger board with my stepdaughter holding a trout in front of it. There was never another word typed about downrigger boards (the original message). I had to replace it with a picture of my dog in front of the rigger board. If you want good info, don't include a pic with a female in it. They seem to turn brains into mush. haha

http://www.precisionangling.com/bigwater.html The charts are in this book (Precision Trolling Big Water 2nd Edition) and they work well off the boards.

You just let out your line to the distance you want behind the torpedo. Clip the torpedo on, making sure you put the line behind the pin and then let out more line to get to the desired depth. When you bring the fish in, you have to reach up and unclip the torpedo before you finish realing the fish in. They have good explainations on the web site.

I too would recommend removing the foam but I don't think I'd replace it unless you have too. You will want access to those nuts under there to check them once in a while. They sometimes loosen up. It's also not a bad idea to add the screws or bolts through the side as you mentioned if you can. You can't build it too strong.

I just put a 115 Nissan on my boat last summer. I love it so far. A buddy of mine swears by them. He uses them on his duck boats. He says they are bullet proof. Also, the post about Tohatsu is correct. The Nissans and Tohatsus are the same motors. And I believe they make the power heads for the small Mercury motors.

Check out the Lowrance XOG. I got one at Cabelas for like $140 or $150 it think. You can use it for turn by turn directions in your car or for point to point navigation on the water or in the woods. It also uses the Navionics charts. You can also download maps for it, although I haven't tried that. I love it. I use it on the snowmobile, 4 wheeler, boat and in my car. Took it to Florida last winter too. I also have a Lowrance LCX520C combo unit in the boat and when I run them side by side, the speed is nearly identical.

I just fill my reels with the 30# big game and call it good.