mudflat

Knowing how much your speed affects the depth with copper and lead I would be interested in seeing how much the weighted steel and 19 wire are affected. It would be nice if Matthew could develop a depth chart for various trolling speeds and lengths

Just remember that if you bed it down with 5500 you won't be taking it back off without doing some fiberglass repair work!

I mounted a Cisco 10 rod rocket launcher on my Penn Yan hardtop using 1" screws and 3M 5500 under the base. Solid as a rock so far and we even use the rod holders as grab handles when we climb up on the gunnels to go up front.

When you're a super fisherman anything is possible, cover the whole water column top to bottom with only one rigger and no fubars

Screwy Louie's in Fairhaven is an authorized service center for both Cannon and Scotty

Yes, as long as you have enough clearance between the skag and the road I raised the Garelick mount all the way up and lowered the kicker all the way down then put on the strap.

If you want to have the auto pilot on just the kicker so you don't need the connector arm then I would go with a Garmin TR-1 Gold. You are correct, with that size boat a T9.9 kicker is going to have to be very active to hold a course in any kind of wind or current. The auto pilot almost needs to anticipate the needed course corrections to keep up and I don't think the T4 will do it. I'm running a TR-1 with a T9.9 kicker on a 25' Penn Yan and feel the TR-1 is what makes it work. With hydraulic steering you can install an auto pilot on your main for about the same money as what the TR-1 will cost and with the connector arm the auto pilot would work with both motors. This is what I would have done except I have rotary cable steering on my Penn Yan and would have had to convert to hydraulic steering. Garmin, Simrad and Raymarine all make good systems so I would pick one based on what other electronics you have on the boat and what dealers are available in your area. Either way will cost you a lot more than the T4 system but it would be well worth the expense when you're on the water.

With my Garelick bracket I have always used a ratchet strap with no problems for years. With the Adventure Marine bracket it's not needed, the bracket is as solid as my transom.

From the picture I'll say Coho Here's a nice ID reference guide: SalmonTrout-LakeOntario2012.pdf

Checked my Navionics chart: The closest point to the Canadian border is 17.7 miles from the Oswego light (bearing 127*) It gets deep quick out of Oswego, you hit 500' around 6 miles and see 600' at 8.1 miles from the light so you should be good

I had a couple of rod holders that the clamp bolt started to show rust and Cisco replaced the bolts under their lifetime warranty. They said it was problem with a batch of bolts they had received from a supplier that year, give them a call I have a total of 15 Cisco rod holders on 2 boats that I had purchased over several years and this only happened on a couple of them so far

I've never been a fan of the cradle type rod holders because they have limited use just for dipsies and the rod butts end up sticking into the boat I do have Cisco tube rod holders and I just pick the dipsy rod and holder straight up to remove the rod, same as you would with any ratchet type holder. My Cisco's are 7 years old and still look brand new

Here's a post form GLA that compares the s1000 to the Lowrance, hope it helps http://www.glanglerforum.com/forum/showthread.php?23208-Autopilot-suggestions I has a s1000 and it would drop out at slow speeds when it lost it's mind if the GPS didn't send new info soon enough Not a problem now with my TR-1 because it relies on a heading sensor for info and it's much quicker to react. There is a limit for every auto pilot when you're trolling slow in windy conditions because at lower rpm's the motor doesn't provide enough thrust to steer against the wind and currents all the time, That's when bags help because you're running higher rpm's to maintain speed plus the stabilizing effect of the bags.

You should be Ok as long as the cavitation plate is under the water far enough so the prop doesn't ventilate. On your main motor you need to have the cavitation plate even with the bottom so that when you are up on plane it stays in the water. When running a kicker you are never up on plane so it doesn't need to be set as low. Like Spike says, wave action may cause the kicker prop to ventilate when the boat is bobbing up and down a lot but this isn't usually a big problem.

People are like fishing hooks, some are sharper than others.

I believe it says: "A man never stands so tall as when he stoops to help a child fish." If I'm correct it looks like you missed a "space" before child but either way the statement is true!

The two I'm familiar with are the Salmon Slam out of Sodus with Project Healing Waters in August http://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishing-hunting/topic/50956-sbhw-salmon-slam-august-1st-2015/ and the Wounded Warriors event out of Fair Haven http://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishing-hunting/topic/51638-fair-haven-all-aboard-weekend-wounded-warriors-and-special-needs-kids/?hl=%2Bfair+%2Bhaven