mudflat

I'll take the dipsy wraps if they're not already sold Let me know

Aw, Hank gets all the fun

That's the one, you would also need the 9 pin to 7 pin cable adapter to connect it to your HDS. This is fun spending someone else's money, can I also come drill some holes in your new boat?

If you have any $ left over look at a Navico Xsonic TM150m transducer. With a Gen-3 this will give you medium chirp for about $300. With an ethernet network you can share transducers between your units. I'm adding one this year to go along with my B-60 50/200 thru hull, I think Wallyandre already has one, maybe he'll give us a review.

I'd also go with the Gen3 and if I had a couple grand in my budget I'd get 2 of them instead of the carbon, one for sonar and the other for charts/radar. Much easier to see a full screen from the back of the boat than having a split screen.

Sounds like common sense gained from a lifetime of working with a barn full of females, much lacking in today's world

Don't forget you will also need to set up a nema 2000 network You'll need a starter kit, some tees and cable - approx. $100 https://www.hodgesmarine.com/searchresults.asp?searching=Y&sort=5&search=starter kit &show=30&page=1

I'm no electronic expert so I had to learn the hard way, you need a heading sensor connected to a HDS to overlay radar on your chart. HDS unit have both NMEA 0183 and NMEA2000 networking. I would look at getting a Point 1 antennae which has a heading sensor built in and hook it up to a nmea 2000 network. This would probably improve your GPS at the same time and is also the least expensive heading sensor. I used a Simrad RC42 heading sensor before Lowrance came out with the Point 1 and it wasn't cheap but having the overlay makes your radar much easier to interpert and saves screen space on your HDS. I'm sure Hank can help you out with setting this up. If you want to see one in action I'll be slipped at Arney's sometime around mid April.

I ran several Smart Troll probes and a Fish Hawk X4 last year at the same time and didn't see and interference between them. The transducers are only 6" apart on the transom and I had no problems. You can't even compare a Smart Troll to an Fish hawk TD since the Smart Troll is giving you continuous real time data and the probes are so much smaller that they don't have much effect on your running depth. I still use my TD to give me an overview of the temperature layers in the water column for a starting point and it works great for that. I put the Smart Troll probes on my divers and junk lines to keep track of where they are, depth and temperature, all the time. Smart Troll advertises 300' range but I have had them on 400' divers and 500' coppers and received consistent readings most of the time. When wave conditions get real choppy I start losing the Smart Troll signal intermittently but generally get enough readings to have a good idea where everything is running.

Here's two more: Healing Waters Salmon Slam at Sodus/Hughes: https://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishing-hunting/topic/65202-2017-healing-waters-salmon-slam-july-29th/ Fair Haven Wounded Warriors https://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishing-hunting/topic/58444-fair-haven-wounded-warrior-fishing-event/?tab=comments#comment-417707

I slide on a couple beads and attach a good quality swivel to the wire using the "wire line knot" so I can easily remove the probe for storage and charging. http://www.fishdoctorcharters.com/videos/video3F.html

I usually run the probes hooked right in the line, always felt that having it tethered off the main line would create more tangles and drag On a wire diver I just hook one end of the probe to the wire and the other end to the dipsy. On a copper or lead core I hook the probe to the end of the main leader then run a run a short leader off end of the probe to the lure. Still trying to figure out the best place for the probe when using slide divers but will probably set it up like a copper line. I've only used the OR clips on the rigger cable Made it thru last year without losing any probes

My transducer is mounted about halfway between the bottom of the transom and the waterline, just inside of my trim tabs. The "interference" I experience is just losing a consistent signal from the port side diver when I'm running the main motor and I/O. My kicker doesn't seem to cause any problems but it is mounted higher than the I/O and further away from the transducer. I run the floor settings pretty low most of the time. I only run the main motor when we have strong currents/wind/waves and then I drop a couple trolling bags and start the main still using the kicker with the TR1 to steer and fine tune my speed.

I also have a kicker with a TR1, a fish hawk, 2 fish finders w/transducers, vhf radio, stereo and an I/O. The only interference I have had is between the probes and the transducer and that was only occasionally with a probe on the port side when I was running the main motor and I/O at over 1000 rpm. Never had any problems with interference between the smart troll receiver and the tablet. I have the smart troll transducer mounted on the transom towards the outer edge on the starboard side, away from my kicker motor which is on the port side. I think the interference I have seen is probably caused by the I/O prop turbulence between the probe and the transducer.

I used an 8" Fire tablet from Amazon - $49 last year Attached it to my dash with adhesive velcro strips. This keeps it in the cabin out of the weather and sunlight. The display is large enough that I can read it from anywhere in the boat.

Here's the link for Kidde's recall info: https://inmarmarketaction.com/kidde/Kidde284US/

You might have to change the name to "Easy Rider" I'll keep my eyes open, I think Sammy has some in his basement

Nick What flavor riggers are you looking for ? These wouldn't be for a new ride would they?

Musky I've used your recipe several times and everybody wants me to smoke more salmon only problem is keeping the 14 Cats away from the smoker!