Shakemsam

Unfortunately, you will most likely have to remove the runner as well.

I always ran on 1 and occasionally would run on 2 to keep everything charged. I always tried not to switch while the main engine was running.

It's not over thinking! The more connections, the better chance of a bad connection! In a perfect world, your Battery should go to a battery selector switch, Switch common to main engine as well a separate feed to a breaker continuing to a fuse panel, all capable of handling the amperage load. Your kicker directly to the cranking battery, but ideally to it's own. Bilge float directly to battery with an inline fuse. FWIW...I run a breaker and panel feeding my console electronics and another breaker and panel for the stern (riggers, 12v supply, Depth Raider, TrollMaster, Remember, that 6 amp alternator won't put out 6 amps at idle and most likely not at trolling speed.

Nothing available in a spray for the DIY that I'm aware of. For the sealing, I assume you're talking about the plywood in the transom. You will most likely have to sandwich 2 pieces or maybe 3 for the correct thickness. Total Boat epoxy is fine but not necessarily the penetrating type. Lots of info on youtube.

it's labor intensive but once to start drilling out the rivets to remove the splash well, you will see it's not that bad. Plus you can get to replace all those thru transom bolts and seal everything with 5200.. Replacing the foam is optional. lots of info out there about the pros and cons.

I would keep looking. Not a 4winns fan and not really a fish friendly boat. I would put it in the category of a family day cruiser that dad can occasionally. fish on until the wife sees you drilling holes! The Cobra's are ok. A step up from the previous OMC's but still not as easy to work on or for parts as merc.

Agreed. And I do the same, usually at the Oak. Just another reason why there is not another weigh station.

Agreed, the numbers out of I bay or even Rochester in general are crazy low compared to the west end or Sodus.

Long ago when it was locally owned, the weigh station was at the Port of Rochester and then it was moved to Rochester Hollow Grinder. Back then, it was truly an event!

Unless you are running your riggers constantly, they should not drain your cranking battery. It may have been something else that was a constant drain, combined with the riggers. Keep in mind, it is not enough to just have a kicker with electric start. it is about the size of the stator and how many amps it puts out.

I went to a 4 blade and ha a bit higher rpm and more control at low speeds including trolling.

Either will treat you well. The only issue I see is finding one. A buddy at work was on a waiting list for a 70 Yam for over a year.

TM should have it's own battery(s). Riggers and other electronics off the cranking battery, or a house battery from a perko type switch. JMO

cone isn't narrow enough. a basic 2d transducer 83/200 or 50/200 gives much better results. chirp has it's place as well as side view but not for trolling. I run a basic 2d for trolling and another ff with chirp and dv and sv for sm and perch. JMO