The only reason to ever turn in plates was to have a receipt to show your insurance agent that the vehicle was not on the road. no need with a trailer.
No personal experience with OMC I/O's. But I believe the general consensus was stay away if you can. Parts are pricier and harder to find than merc. The Cobra's were a better outdrive than previous versions but still not merc. An outboard bracket would be an interesting project. Since you are rebuilding the transom anyway, that's the direction I would go.
Thanks Tyee for the reply. It seemed to always happen when bringing in the outside diver, which is really odd because there was a 30 ft difference between depth, with the outside running in the top 30. The outside rods were divers and spoons while the insides had flasher and flys. Always on the Starboard side, regardless of speed or direction. I wonder about maybe after popping the diver on the retrieve, letting out some line bring it closer to the surface and then bringing them up the middle, like I do with boards....
I generally run Chinook #5's set at 1.5 on wire and #3's on braid set at 4, for my spread. Due to a loss of a #5 earlier this year and none being available, this weekend..I resorted to a #4 on the inside with a #2 on the outside. It didn't take long before they got together. No matter what I did, there was no way of keeping them apart. The wire divers are 7' rods up and out at 45 degrees while the braid is 9' at a flat 90 degree. Any ideas?
I believe Yam recommends 87 for the the newer 250. I would drain the bowls and change the filters, top it off with eth free and add some stabill or lucas. Run and repeat!
Running a MG Xi5 with a Yam 9.9 on a 19' Sea Nymph. Works fine as an AP on anything less than a 2' chop. above that and it's tough. Shaft length on the bow is really important. mine is 60" and 72" would be better.
The HT on a Sabre is pretty much a structural piece. If there is a negative about those hulls, it is that they flex A LOT! The HT absorbs that flex. I also had the longer HT with the full length windows. I'm sure that contributed to the stress I had vs yours. Still....I would get it welded considering the damage you had. Check locally for a welder. Lots of guys would come to the boat. It's only a 15 min job.
Ok..cool. If the drains are on the wall of the well, I don't see how they would completely drain. Maybe you're taking water in from splash, especially if you have riders in the bow.
Maybe a pin hole in one of the wells?
I know you said at the beginning of this post that your live well drain holes are on the sides of the bow. I've never seen a 175 gls set up that way. Im fact, I've never seen any boat's li ewell drain like that. Their overflow, yes! All Nymphs use tube style plugs in their wells that also function as overflow drains, that I have seen. Their drain has always been at the stern. Perhaps your's has been modified for some reason, contributing to the cause.Are you the original owner?
You can find the directions on the Depthraider web site. Basically what you show in the pic with the clincher but the last 2 inches is stripped to the wire connector that attaches to the bolt. Then wrapped in rubber tape.
I'm not sure but I believe the water is causing a connection issue with the separate wire. Based on your pics, you should be fine. I can tell you that the antenna spring likes to chew up coated cable. Especially if you are using auto stop beads.