Shakemsam

(1) 8# and (1) 10# with cradles. Cradles set up to slide into tracks. $35ea or 60 for both

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Not really...Hrs can contribute to price but certainly isn't the biggest factor in the ability to sell the motor. A test run, compression test, and maintenance records...in that order! Good luck to the seller!

Hours can be determined easy enough if you have the plug and software or by nema 2000. That doesn't mean the seller has the ability.

nope. Buy a sheet at HD and make your own. Videos on YouTube.

Left Ibay and headed east. Trolled just past of Bear Creek 10-40 ft deep. Through every stick I have at em....nada. Trolled west to home port 70-130ft. Riggers and Dipsy's and weighted boards. Same result.

Left Ibay today at 6 and trolled west inside 10-40ft all the way to Long Pond and then worked our way out to 150 continuing west. Marked Lakers on bottom at 130ft. About 3 mi west of Braddocks, made a swing back. Called it a day just east of Braddocks and motored home. Never moved a rod except to change baits. Water is COLD! Never found a temp above 41 except for inside of 15ft. Long day! Tomorrow...taking a hard right and see what happens.

Great Lakes Skipper has some stuff. Other than that...keep checking the forum here. I was lucky enough to get brand new factory side and aft curtains here, for my Sea Nymph. Then there's CL and Ebay.

Then go to port. Only other option is where the other ducer is or swapping positions with the kicker and platform. Where the skimmer is...is fine but just know your depth is off by about a foot. NBD

Starboard is fine. It is generally recommended to be no less than 8" from the keel.

The adding a link to the breakaway cable...bad idea. The length of that cable is key to when the brakes react. Adding a link delays that reaction. Don't do it! Now, as I mentioned previously.. The metal clip on the breakaway cable is designed to be inside the actuator. When the cable is pulled with force (usually when you pull away and forget to disconnect it), the brakes are activated and the clip keeps the cable extended, keeping the brakes from releasing. Now the cable is similar to your emergency break cable in your car but different because it does not go all the way to your wheels. The cable is generally attached to a lever on the actuator that when pulled, activates the brakes. Most actuators are mounted above the tongue and all the above would be in plain view. Eagle integrated it into the tongue for appearance. You will have to remove the actuator to service it. That S hook is tempered steel. It is tough for a reason. If it was easy to bend, it wouldn't serve it's purpose very well. Like a previous poster suggested...try some heat! If the trailer moves without issue, then the brakes simply are not working. Considering that you didn't know you had brakes...I am sure that the actuator is dry if not full of water. Remove the black cap behind the coupler. That's where the brake fluid goes. Reg DOT fluid is fine. Now, at the wheels...you could have disc or drum brakes. Servicing the brakes can be a chore. Disc are the easier of the two. Either way, the wheels will have to be removed. If it is drum brakes, the hubs have to come off. If disc, they resemble automotive disc brakes and are self explanatory. My guess...you will have drum brakes and the wheel cylinders are frozen. Replace the cylinders, maybe the shoes, and some hardware. With any luck, the actuator isn't froze but not likely. Rebuild kits are available but I generally just replace the whole thing. If the hoses and lines appear ok, next is bleeding the brakes and adjusting the shoes to the hubs. Sounds like a lot and it is, but it's not terrible. It's also a PITA with the boat on but it can be done. Good Luck and PM me if you have any ?

Yep! That looks like either a Tiedown or Dexter actuator. Alumacrafts are generally packaged with Eagle trailers. If that trailer doesn't have brakes, it did at one time! And if it does...they ain't workin! BTW, that metal clip on the cable should be inside the coupler. Being outside means the emergency brake is activated.

Generally, a propane torch at the minimum is required when using heat. When that fails, try Mapp gas. A rubber mallet might be better and don't be shy with it. Pugsley's would look at it if you need. They are in Ontario, NY.

Would you consider splitting them? I am running the same 115 only a little newer..2001. That 60 degree is a great motor. Why the change? More hp?

ttt