mr 580

Thinking you need to calculate the actual shaft length you would need for TM and how you would deploy and stow the TM. With cabin, bow rail and distance from water you will need a long shaft. You might be limited on options for TM’s. I’m guessing 84” or more for a shaft. On that size boat with cabin a gas kicker is an easier install and less weight once you add in the extra batteries you need.

The rental boats I’m familiar with have basic electronics and not much in the way of rod holders. For folks looking to go a few times a year a charter is the best way to go. You get the boat, the gear and someone with local knowledge/experience. You will have a better outcome for not much more money. I have ex boat owners/fisherman that go out with me every year- for a handful of trips they say that they saving money vs expense of owning a boat.

I have a number of older St Croix and Ugly Sticks that I really like as well. I’ve refinished the rod and replaced some guides myself as winter projects. If the rod needed reel seat and grip repair, I’d replace the rod just from a dollar and cents perspective. Probably buy a decent replacement for what parts and materials cost not even considering labor.

My experience with Suzuki 9.9 kicker is that I rarely lose prime and rarely touch the primer bulb. I’ve been running a Trollmaster on mine. I also run a Honda 8 with carb that has been good too. EFI starts easier than carb IMO. Lots of good choices in kickers.

After running an Evinrude ETEC for 16 years here's my thoughts on plugs. BRP Evinrude called for the spark plugs to be indexed to the injectors which requires some time, and some plugs won't index so you have to shuffle the position. Based on that alone my suggestion is to learn the built in fogging procedure. I kept a copy of the steps on a clip by my toolbox- once you are used to doing it the process is quite simple and fast. I also found that my ETEC liked plugs so changing plugs every two or three years is required. If you see issues at idle or low rpms change plugs. Proper plug indexing and use of correct plugs will help with life. Proper torque is also needed as the threads in the head can strip easily and a dab of never seize is a good idea.

Dunkirk has been rough the last few days with north winds and that will pack the warm water. Might want to start in 80 and head north. See what screen shows but expect fish 40 to 60 down. It was rough enough on Monday that the Marina emailed slip holders to check moorings and bilge pumps on their boats.

If diver tumbling too fast- keep tension on divers of any type. I’ve un SD’s for years on both braid and wire with zero line twist issues.

Are you using a swivel at the end of the 30lb slide line along with a short leader to your lure? Don’t let the SD slide all the way to the lure. Fast deploy can twist things up too.

I tried the 12 oz and it definitely will get you down. The issue I had was unless you cleared the whole side you couldn’t deploy. I wished I had tried the 8oz or 4 oz instead for a snap weight on leadcore.

Big difference in price- 20 gauge duplex marine 70 cents a foot and 2/0 is about 7 bucks a foot single wire plus your crimped ends that need a hydraulic crimping tool. I added heavier cable for my downriggers and an ACR myself this spring and good marine components aren’t cheap.

What are you using 20 gauge wire for? Trolling motor hookup uses much heavier wire especially on a long run. They probably also installed a circuit breaker too and additional cables for battery switch. What’s your material cost and labor cost? Marine wiring is more $$$ than auto wiring as well. Go over the bill with the people who did the work.

Requirement of spare batteries is not true by either state or USCG inspectors. Batteries have printed expiration dates and I believe the regulations state specific length before replacement. Normally they just turn on electric flare and that is it. It’s been my experience that inspectors have made positive comments when they see the electronic flair on board.

Both USCG and NYS Parks Marine PV inspectors readily accept the Electronic LED Flare. Seems like the dated handheld flares just keep going up in price-IMO a rip off as the expiration is so short. I’ve had the Electronic LED’s for at least 4 years.