mr 580

FYI that Lund and Crestliner share the same owner and are made in same factory. Lund uses riveted construction and Crestliner is welded. Models and features slightly different but price point probably pretty similar. Same company owns Mercury so most are Mercury powered.

George B, if you look close at Noodler54 original post it was edited on 9/13 “Boat Sold”. This was his first post on this site and apparently doesn’t realize he needs to mark as “sold/closed”.

With Mercury and Suzuki the 70 and 90hp share the same block/displacement so weight is the same. IMO the 90 makes more sense as you currently have a 90 and likely price difference minimal. Mercury has more dealer options than Suzuki, lots to consider when updating outboard on a boat. Talk to several dealers before deciding.

From your pictures that does not appear to be a live well as it looks like plywood with a thin layer of resin. Also don’t see any hinges on cover- was sealed and screwed down apparently. If memory serves me well, was pretty common on the Thompson’s for guys to put a platform on transom over outdrive for a cooler/fish box. Likely easier than doing pumps/plumbing for a live well.

Long drive from Syracuse area, but I’ll pass along as he does quite a few bears (and likes to do them). Bob Crossley at Crossley’s Taxidermy in Sherman, NY. Phone 716-761-6117. Full time taxidermist working from a shop at his home. Did a shoulder mount on the Bear I shot last year. Bob was very helpful as it was my first bear in providing info on care, finding a processor (many deer processors in this area don’t want to do bears), and with quick turn around. When I picked up my mount he said he had done 25 of the 41 bears taken in 9J in 2019. If you don’t find someone closer, you might give him a call. I’ll try to post a pic of my mount.

With the boat demand this season due to Covid, it might be a good time to let the dust settle and see if used boat prices come down. If you want to read up on how crazy it has been there are several threads on the Hull Truth site. Likely you will have to travel - Western Ohio and Michigan tend to have more used boats than our area especially if you are looking for freshwater only. IMO if you want something to keep 10 or 15 years then you want 2000 or newer. Something turn key, clean and with low hours in a 21 to 23 w/cabin in those years likely way over your current budget. Getting a surveyor outside the area isn’t hard, just don’t hire one recommended by dealer or seller.

Registration should have vin number as well. My guess is early 80’s.

IMO the Grady might make sense if the current two stroke got you through a couple seasons or until you found a reasonably priced freshwater late model 4 stroke. To me in today’s technology outboards give you more flexibility on a used boat. Regarding rigging and electronics, you’ll likely want your own anyway. Even with a new repower, it would be way less than something from like 2010 or even let’s say a well equipped new 19’ foot aluminum. Lots of different ways to look at things and why having a checklist of what is important to you is a good way to simplify a search. After years of helping others search for equipment, happier endings come from those with criteria and interestingly price many times drops down the list in importance. Have some fun and good luck with search!

1985 - ten years off initial target of 1995 or newer. West Virginia registration bit of a red flag as their are plenty of scams around. Might be worth a look if a cruiser layout fits your need. The Watertown Craigslist that Bob mentioned with Wellcraft also has a 1995 Grady White 22 Seafarer outboard for $11,900 advertised as a 2 owner that is a pretty blank canvas- needs trailer and likely a repower to newer 4 stroke. Could be something worth looking at. Also a Pursuit Denali listed there as well. These boats are more of a fishing layout. Checking boxes of what fits for you might work better than jumping at a lower price early in a search.

Seven foot lead will work even though longer lead likely better. With a seven foot rod it limits you when netting unless you want to hand line a longer leader (not ideal).

I have been using “swivel tip roller guides” which are from torpedo and other manufacturers on a couple wire rods.The swivel feature is important and haven’t seen much wear. I also have a couple full roller rods with aftco guides- they have held up well over the years but do show wear from wire at tip. If I was buying now I’d look at the swivel tip roller guide over the twili. I do agree with others that a twili is better than cheap roller tip.

I’d suggest that you start your search by looking at boats from 21 to 25 foot in years from let’s say 1995 to 2005. To me starting by looking over a wider search criteria gives you a better idea of the market and what price ranges are. What you have for a tow vehicle and whether you want a freshwater only boat are good things to consider early on as well. Fall is a usually a good time to look- not sure if that is true this year. IMO you might find your budget tight for a boat in the 2000’s.

I use fluorocarbon leaders for spoons and small attractors on riggers rods. For meat rods and big paddles I just run main line mostly as to me that isn’t a stealth presentation. I do tie my meat heads and twinkies with fluorocarbon leader material. I’m a firm believer that kings will find the weakest link so good knots, terminal tackle, and quality main line/ leader will save money in the long run.

The dominant fleas in Lake Erie are a different strain than in Lake Ontario. In Lake Erie you can fish 15lb on riggers and braid on divers all season as the fleas pretty much fall off the line. On Lake Ontario you need heavy mono or sea flea line on riggers and wire divers to counter the fleas. I also feel that over 50 foot target depth and higher speeds on Lake Ontario that wire has an advantage especially pulling attractors over braid. Some also feel that the “signature” in the water of wire gives more productivity over braid also. On Lake Erie I use braid all season as it is more forgiving especially for less experienced anglers. On Lake Ontario wire wins with flea resistance, higher speed at deeper depths.

My Mag 5ST’s are “sloppy” in the base with both the bolt tightened and locks in the base - so apparently normal.

What are your reels/drags? Wonder if you are having drags bind up after a few long runs? Breaking off 30 to 50 feet up likely not a storage or terminal tie issue.