mr 580

Do a search for “Mercury quicksilver auxiliary steering bracket” and you should see a number of them. Panther T5 installation video on their website shows them using a Mercury bracket to attach steering rod. If you bought your motor new from a dealer hey should be able to help you too. What you need is triangle shaped bracket with a hole for ball stud then 2 holes for bolts to your motor. Don’t use the the 2 flat plates that Panther sells as a universal mount- I’ve always made my own and never drill or modify my kicker.

Put the rings and gasket set on EBay- recoup some of your money. Don’t beat yourself up about it - seems like sometimes you have to go backward to go forward. At least it was clear that it made no sense to continue so you’re not out anymore of your time. You gave it a try and it didn’t work out. Put your effort into doing what you need for an upgrade.

Sounds like you have a VHF Radio with DSC capability which when connected to a GPS can send a formatted distress call to USCG if you have a MMSI number. Sounds complicated but is relatively simple and inexpensive to register your vessel information. Can get MMSI through Boat US free. Worth looking into IMO. Different piece of equipment than a CB radio.

I’ve put a lot of hours on small Hondas, Yamahas, and Suzuki in the last 20 years. I put one water pump and a set of plugs in a 10 year old Yamaha because I felt bad I hadn’t done anything to it. A new 20 hp Suzuki long shaft with controls looks to be under $3200 w/ frt (not sure on tax). 5 year warranty and build in rev limiter. I change engine oil and lower unit oil which is really simple. I’d rather fish than tinker with an old motor. Don’t look for labor rates to go down as the number of technicians is limited across the board-auto, ag, construction, marine and trucks. Every shop is looking.

I’m not surprised at what you are finding for costs on parts and materials to rebuild. Makes it hard to justify even when you can do the labor yourself. Suggest you go to “online outboards.com” and check prices on new 25/30 hp outboards. My neighbor and I have both bought Suzuki’s from them several years ago without a lick of a problem. Neighbor replaced a 25hp Merc 2 stroke with a 20hp Suzuki and had better performance. Wouldn’t be surprised if you could go from a 30hp to a new 25hp with less weight and much better fuel use. Never hurts to know what new costs.

I’ve been happy with Daiwa Great Lakes Series 862MHF-LC’s for 7 color and up LC setups for walleye. You need the stiff backbone to handle the weight of the longer lengths of leadcore with the fast tip to detect the bite on the boards. Okuma has some similar rods that work fine too. When you have too soft a backbone then it’s harder to detect walleye bites.

I wear a black balaclava - keeps my face warm and opening big enough for grunt call. Covers most of your face especially if you wear glasses.

I use braid or wire for main line and tie in mono for the diver to slide on. Usually 35 or 40 feet for walleye. 30lb Big Game will work but I do find it wants to curl up after a bit so 40lb is a bit better. I’ve been using Maxima 40lb leader material the last few years and that is better yet. For a weekend guy either 30 or 40lb Big Game is Ok plus reasonable. I use the standard mono spring and lock down with surgical tubing never an issue with slide down. On the light bite arm I put a piece of the thin clear tube the diver comes with so the line can’t slip out of arm. Usually run a high and low diver on each side when currents permit.

Might want to post a picture of the downrigger before you order more parts. Cannon has made a number of Mag 10 models over the years and it’s not uncommon for descriptions in places like FB to not match the item. Electrical items usually are non-turnable.

Should use 10 gauge wire for zero to 15 feet- longer runs even heavier. Pretty heavy draw with a downrigger.

Rereading the original post it sounds like you have a keyed separate switch for starting kicker. Check for switched power on the lugs of that switch.

I’d tie it into another switched circuit-either a speed/temp or a downrigger for example that you switch off when not trolling. Or use a separate switch. Both of my kickers have stop/start buttons with no on/off switch on them.

IMO for people that might want to only take a trip or two per year on big water like the Great Lakes by trailering a rig and getting the specialized tackle that the option of hiring a charter is one to consider. Divide the cost of the charter between several people and it becomes reasonable compared to boat ownership and expense. Might also allow you to look at a smaller boat for your normal fishing. Not saying that is what you should do for your situation, but it is an option that shouldn’t be overlooked.

Seeing that you are out time wise a bit on the purchase, I would recommend talking to as many guys as you can at the ramps. Also see if you can hitch a ride on some newer boats. IMO I think you’ll find an 18 or 19 is preferred over a 16 or 17 for bigger water. With folding tongue trailers getting the longer boat in a garage isn’t the issue it once was. Another consideration for someone just wanting to fish the Great Lakes once or twice a year is to get a couple guys and charter. With today’s price of boats, fuel and insurance, it is a viable choice.

Looks that way- joined July 10th then made this one post and hasn’t visited since July 19. And people wonder why there is a lack of posts.