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Everything posted by mr 580
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Water temp was OK- had some colder water inside from NE blow. Had 68 on top and 64 down 30 in 80fow. Fish came off 5 color and hybrid 80 copper plus 4 colors. Temp wise lake is Ok, but when you're steering around logs and limbs it's not ideal. They sure don't need anymore storms.
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Had a Garelick mount on my last boat. Used it for over 8 years on a 15hp Honda and later with a 9.9 Yamaha without any problems. I used backer plates on transom when mounting and I had a bracket for a ratchet strap so kicker was always secure. Make sure mount is rated for the weight of your motor. Quite a lot of engineering in these mounts so I wouldn't try to make one myself.
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Went on a buddy's boat out of Barcelona this morning. Lake was a mess with debris, high water and lots of dirty water. Tried cleaner water first, but ended up getting fish out of the dirty water in 75 feet. Went 8 for 12 plus a steelhead. Bay Rats and Renoskys took the hits. Have to watch the debris as some big stuff floating around so be careful.
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Probably quickest and easiest way to check is to pull side cover and see if there is a circuit board inside. Fish 307 has on line schematics for all the mag 10 models including early ones. Telescopic booms will fit on all the models so not an exact way to determine age/model. If they still have serial numbers a call to someone like Fish 307 or Screwy Louie's might help with what you need. Good luck with it.
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X2 on Paul's response. Concentrate on getting your riggers and dipsey's in the right water. Rather than stacking on the riggers add a slider for bonus fish. You can run board with snap weight but likely that won't be deep enough for kings at 30 feet. Get your rigger and dipsey program going then worry about getting a productive deep board bite with cores and coppers.
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I don't have any info on calibration of the Lowrance unit, but I do have a working hand held Mac Jac unit that has 100 foot plus cord and operates off 9 volt battery that I'd sell if you can't get yours going. Can send picture if you are interested. I used a hand held for years until I upgraded- held onto the old style for backup.
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I have a set of Mag 10 power supply cords old style that I'd sell for $20. They are from downrigger side but those plugs will fit on either side. Can provide a picture if interested.
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Based on your pictures looks to me like your diver is getting twisted up on deployment. Only way I know that would cause line to your lure to be under pressure. Let diver out slower or under more pressure should eliminate diver twist. On my braid light bites I "thumb" them out and my wire slide divers I use drags to keep even pressure. Use all the time never have line cut into rear of diver. Slow down deployment should cure problem.
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About 10 years ago I had a MinnKota trolling motor that was controlled by 6 1.5 volt batteries and if all the batteries weren't at maximum charge you couldn't use the motor. Pretty much had to put new batteries in every time you wanted to use. I had a engineer friend set it up to run off 12 volt with a voltage converter down to 9 volt for the transmitter. Not sure where he got parts but it wasn't too expensive. Most of it fit in where batteries had been and it was setup with a cigarette lighter plug to pickup the 12 volts so when you weren't using the motor you stowed it away. Worked good and I sold motor to a friend who used it for at least a couple more years. Never caused any problems with boat electrical system.
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Website has info on wire, braid and mono for different lure options. I picked up a laminated copy at a show which I keep on the boat. I also made a rough comparison to dipsey numbers and I mark my slide divers with a magic marker with the dipsey 1 2 3 numbers- helps when I'm running dipsey's low and slide diver high. Would be a lot easier if they had same scale.
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Had trips on Tuesday and Wednesday. Plug bite with purple best. Silver bass were a pest. On Wednesday there was a lot of debris from the storms in 60/65 feet- some of it pretty good sized. Water temps up from where they were. Watch out for the junk as it was both east and west of harbor.
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If you're not already using dipsey's in your spread, I'd add those before you go to copper. For someone starting out braid on dipsey's is more forgiving than wire, but braid has the flea issue. If you do go with wire get dipsey rods, add Twilly tips, and reels with good drags. Have someone familiar with wire setup your rods as wire needs to go on with steady pressure. Have to watch wire for kinks so have to be careful breaking down rods and handling. Don't give up on your lead core setups either. Short segments of lead core have been very productive for me this year. Keep in mind with all these tactics there is a learning curve so stick with it until you are comfortable. Good luck!
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On a small tiller boat having riggers mounted further up the gunnels makes it easier to get at the rods and work the riggers. Also makes rods accessible if a second person is in boat. Boat's seating layout will dictate where you have to mount gear. If riggers come forward just mount other rod holders further forward.
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Sounds like it could be similar to an issue I had a few years ago when I was pulling a 13lb weight on old Mag 10A. Rigger started catching on way up and eventually wouldn't hold either up or down. What I found was motor drive assembly had three plastic pucks that had disintegrated. Not too hard to check-pull cover and the motor assembly. Remove gear and check under gasket material. If you see small white plastic chunks that's the problem. Kind of tough to find those old motors and they were sold as a complete assembly. Those 10A's had a 10lb weight limit so I just figured I'd found the weak link. I'd had the rigger for 25+ years so I upgraded with 20lb weight limit. Good luck with the problem.
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I tie a short piece of 50lb braid to my wire then do a back to back uniknot to 30lb mono for the slide diver. Let's me easily change out the mono when it wears.
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Did my dashboard with plastic material so my electronics were flush mounted. Looked for starboard but found a cut piece of food grade plastic for $40. If I would have had to buy a full sheet of material would have been pricey. Luckily I had access to CNC equipment so I got dash and a blank cutout for a template done. Template will come in handy if I ever change electronics in future. Also wired so I can remove dash and electronics for winter storage. Really makes a clean install.
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Adventure Marine makes a swim step kicker mount. Well made mount with powder coat paint and pad for motor. I have one on my Stainless Marine outboard bracket and step. Make sure your swim platform has capacity to carry a kicker.
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Wow, guess I screwed up by cutting off that stealth invisible 10th color. Guess I should get some more so I could practice invisible knots. Once I get that down, should be good- no leader, no flea problem. Appreciate the heads up!
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Yes, exact same problem with 9 colors instead of 10 on both spools I bought. Was when line first came out and I did discuss with them. Who ever makes it for them is a slow learner or its old stock if they still have the issue. Figured they would label as 9 color and sell it that way. Packaging problem by manufacturer that is a pain for a guy putting a 10 color rig together only to find out he's short 10 percent.
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I picked up 2 spools of 10 color stealth core a couple years ago and found they were only 9 color. I've used it in segments and it's ok. Surprised to see they still have issue selling a 10 and giving you a 9. At the time they told me they would give me a break on my next order to make up for the issue. I haven't gone back-kind of left a bad taste with me.
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Have had a 7000lb aluminum Venture bunk trailer since 2008. Trailer has been OK - had couple wiring issue's where wires got crushed by the mounting clips. Trailer could have a better harness and different mounting so they probably saved some bucks there. Frame and running gear has been fine. I had the option of a more expensive trailer but went with the Venture as I was already 15K over budget with a new boat instead of my original plan of buying used. For the amount of towing I do it works. With fresh water use no problems at all with any rust. If I was buying a trailer today I'd look at a Venture and check out a couple of other brands to see if the features were worth a higher price.
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Regarding charging systems on manual start kickers- I currently have manual start Yamaha 9.9 and 8 hp kickers with charging systems that work. I've also owned a Honda with a manual start and charging system. I've found the little four strokes to be very dependable and other than oil changes have used few parts over the years. Charging system for me is a must have.