mr 580

The albino frog on the home page picture is a 10" Assassin with a 22" fly (same length I use for 8"SD). I'm the guy in the photo and have been helping Dave @ R&R on these. One of the points I've discussed with Dave is that guys aren't going to want to change their fly lead lengths to use a different attractor and the SD is probably most popular. I also had success with Green Froggy 11.5" Assassin with 34" fly (same length I use for 10" SD). Ran these off riggers, dipsey's and copper with no problems with tangles. These new Assassins work well with flies. These are more forgiving in the spread than 13" Kingfisher's. I'll be at the LOTSA show with R&R and can discuss fly lengths and rigging. Dave's detail on these really pop.

Have had Traxstech track and rigger swivels for my long arms since 2008. Never had any issue's with flex or mounts loosening. I did use aluminum backer under gunnel when I rigged to support track. When I walleye fish I pull the two long arms and add more rod holders so if tracks had an issue I would have seen it. I also have a second boat with Bert's that have worked OK too.

Amish outfitters has ball Snubbers made with spectra. I used them on my Cannons and they took the snap and bounce out. I didn't see any more blowback with them. Cost on snubbers about 5 bucks a piece.

Sorry to hear of your problems. Not sure how your boat is equipped - trim tabs, kicker, etc. my guess is that you should have 200 to 225hp on a 23 Walk. I have a 25 Walk with 225 ETEC that runs in mid to upper 30's with kicker, 4 riggers and full fuel load. One of my buddies has a 21 CC with 150 Four stroke and I know he wishes he had a 200. So I think a 150 would have to work pretty hard on a 23. Given the time of year it might be worth exploring more options. If you troll with your main motor, I think a 200hp four stroke might be worth looking into. Weight difference to 225 Optimax might be less than you think. When I bought my boat the ETEC was 100 to 150lbs less than a Honda which was the weight of my Yamaha kicker and mounting. Good luck with your project.

Regulars work fine on Lake Ontario. I run a section of mono on my wire for the SD. I use light bite SD's on Lake Erie so I'm not towing small fish around.

Keep your dipsey drags loose to the point they are creeping or use a rubber band so they are loose when fish hits and breaks band. Don't say if you use snubbers, but I use them and feel they help with hook up to landing ratio on the wire. I use the clear stealth snubber not the older style colored ones. Doesn't hurt to get in habit of loosening drag as you pull dipsey from rod holder either.

My guess is that your dipsey is running higher than you think it is. I'd suggest you move a rigger higher and also play with your leads off the ball. Dipseys are a deadly tool but some days the fish want the riggers. I can see my riggers on electronics so I know where they are. Dipsey's I think I know, but have come to the conclusion they are probably higher than what I think usually.

Starting out I'd suggest you keep your cheater spoon on a rigger with a spoon. Easier to handle with a fish with two spoons on the line. Keep your flasher fly on its own rigger. Hope you have some success.

Before I had down speed I always used my rigger cables as a reference. I would make sure they laid back and I would also check my back riggers for lateral shift. I would try to minimize that lateral shift so my spread tracked straight. Speed and down temp one of the most important tools so it should be at the top of a wish list. Current is tough to make generalizations on as it varies so widely even in the same day.

I'm using 9 inch Amish Outfitters on my Cannon high speed riggers. Really takes the snap out when they stop at the water. I don't see any difference in blowback but ball does wiggle a bit more in the water. I'm using 13 lb ball on my back riggers and 10's on my side riggers. So far I'm pleased with what I see with the snubber over the slam the rigger took without them. I might try some of their 4 inch to see what they do as well.

Finally able to make my first trips after tearing Achilles tendon in May. 8/20 started inside after seeing a good screen. Made a couple passes pretty cold water with a few skippers so decided to move out. Ran to 27 line and setup. Once we hit 28 line had a consistent pick of quality steelhead with some kings mixed in. Pretty much a spoon bite with flashers being quiet. Did one mature and at least three teenagers. Kings seemed to want a little purple in spoon. Riggers gong 70 to 90 and wires 250 to 270. Did a couple on 300 copper and 10 color. Fleas weren't bad. Stayed west out to 30 line. Group was real happy and my leg held up OK. 8/21 went back to yesterdays numbers to start. Found fish farther east and out as far as 31 line. Did a mature right away on wire out 240. Again mostly spoon bite. Temp down around 90 with kings coming up as high as 70 on riggers. Steelhead throughout water column as had one hit a 300 copper as I was letting it out. Had a less experienced group so I kept my spread limited. Fleas were a problem on wire and a 20lb rigger rod. Rigger rods with Big Game 30lb and Blood Run 30lb flea line were fine. Kept 2 kings and 2 steelhead released the rest. Another happy group. Was good to be back in the seat of my 25 footer and if I stay away from the rough stuff my leg will stay under me. Mature kings were still silver so hope we have a few more weeks left.

Best bet is to stick with 10lb. I ran 13lb on mag 10's and ended up blowing out a motor. Parts for these older ones aren't easy to find either. Newer models are rated for 20lb.

A few years ago I updated several eagle claw dipsey rods and sold them for 20 to 25 bucks a piece with the twili tip. Had same issue with reel seat. We're an ok rod for what I paid for them.