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Everything posted by mr 580
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1. Depth Raider DR 1000 System less probe and coated downrigger cable/klincher (both are available from Kell Outdoors/ Depth Raider). Includes display, power cord, coax cable, antenna, mount and manual. This was an operating system and selling as I updated. Price reduced to $80.00 2. Sold DR 1000 Antenna with Scotty Black Box Sleeve 3. Sold display and power cord. Any shipping at buyers expense. PM for additional pictures or information.
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I’ve found some OEM replacement parts at Great Lakes Skipper Marine Parts in Wisconsin.
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To answer Hondo’s original question of it being common practice of captain and mate keeping fish to add to client’s limit, the answer is “No”. I have kept the odd fish here or there when you have fish that can’t be released pulling lines or for some odd occurrences. That would be a fish here or there over a season and certainly out of the realm of “common practice”. When asked by clients, I just say No and that usually is the end of that conversation.
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Yamaha 150 - 9.9 steering linkage issue/concerns FM196
mr 580 replied to Netbender's topic in This Old Boat
Doesn’t seem like you should have to be tinkering around with a new boat setup. I took delivery on a new boat last year and the dealer had me meet with them to do service write up on rigging, and then when I took delivery sales manager went over boat with me from one end to the other. I do most of my own rigging especially electronics but had them do on board charger, transom transducer mount, and kicker setup. The dealer sold a pretty good number of fishing boats and it showed in how they did rigging and delivery. Hope you get the bugs worked out so you enjoy the outfit. -
Yamaha 150 - 9.9 steering linkage issue/concerns FM196
mr 580 replied to Netbender's topic in This Old Boat
Looks like a Panther Marine steering kit. If it was mine on a new boat, I would be talking with the rigger. IMO the bolts for the steering adapter on the kicker should be tight. When I’ve used Panther mounts I put the ball stud on the top to give more splash well clearance and also take rod off when not trolling so I ratchet strap kicker when in travel position. Looks like you have auxiliary controls which make install tight and complicates steering linkage. I wouldn’t be happy with the scratches in the splash well. I’d be looking to run rod different even if it meant fabricating a new mount rather than the universal one in the kit. -
On line marine distributors like Jamestown Distributors have videos on various repairs plus sell the items. West Systems has videos as well. IMO these are better sources vs a YouTube search as it separates some hacks. Using the right materials at right temperatures is important with fiberglass repairs. Certainly a DIY repair with the right products.
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I would think 2,000 to 3,000 hours life out of a properly maintained four stroke could be expected. With 730 hours on a 2021 I’d be wondering when it went in service ( model years aren’t calendar years) and where it was used ( fresh vs salt). I bought a new 90hp in 2022 and price was a little over 10k. Mercury had a 3 year warranty when I bought mine so unless you save pretty big money on a 2021, new with warranty might be better investment.
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You are getting great advice. Join a charter boat association - the benefits far out way the cost of the dues. Join a drug consortium as well which can save you from thousands in potential fines from not being in a random test program. I haven’t found any insurance to beat Gallagher Charter Lakes either. Doesn’t pay to not do it right.
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You would be better off looking at electronic throttle controls like Trollmaster and Control King. They are designed specifically for kicker applications and holding small throttle settings. I spent many years in tractor and ce business and the small gas engine controls weren’t designed usually for low speed operation and generally were pretty crude. Most were designed to be used at wot. The electronic kicker controls are very trouble free and easy to install. My personal preference is toward hard wired units vs remote control as I feel less chance of problems like dead remote control batteries.
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Not sure how much the names will help in a search for more of these NK colors due to how long some have been out of production. Pretty unlikely that much NOS remains. The three on bottom row with dots were all factory colors. The one on the left in bottom row is doctored with a black marker. Best bet is hitting the flea markets/tackle swaps in off season. I worked a couple shows this spring for vendor that had the Nk’s from the new Canadian owners and they have brought back some old favorites colors along with more models like C4’s. Added a C4 with copper back for walleye guys. Nice to see these spoons back in production. I have a bunch of originals I plan on keeping.
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Think you will find many manufacturers use the same engine for different horsepower ratings in the small portable class. I have an 8 horse Honda and it is same engine as 9.9 Honda just rated at lower rpm. Suzuki uses same basic engine for 9.9 to 20 horse. 9.9 is probably most popular size in under 15hp so used your chance is probably best with 9.9. You definitely want a 2 cylinder over a single plus many 8’s and 9.9’s have charging systems.
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Currents do funny things with pancake weights. Sounds like you are getting contact with another cable- downrigger or wire dipsey. Going to a torpedo shaped weight could help. You have something going on as normally coated cable lasts several years. If it isn’t your spread then it’s something on your rigger.
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To pull a 20lb weight and a probe with current Cannon rigger models probably an Optimum would be the best choice due to programmable retrieve speeds on that model. An issue when one discusses Cannon “Mag 10’s” is that model designation has been used for years in multiple different products with different specs by different owners of that company. Mag 10’s have been out in one form or another for 40+ years so knowing the specific model is very helpful. Early ones had a 10lb rating and current high speed ones are at 20lb.
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Have used a Depth Raider for 10 plus years. Updating some electronics now and updating to DR DRX10. Have to deal with coated cable and connections a downside. Cable reacts faster than Fish Hawk IMO. I’m still using my original probe so they do hold up. Fish Hawks more popular. Either unit should give good service- do you want another transducer/FH or do you want coated cable/DR.
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Rtrucking40 regarding ITO Flies. Ryan had a booth at the Niagara Show with quite a lot of product. I bought some coho/eye flies from him and he mentioned this was the 1st show for them in awhile. Check Facebook for him. Like a lot of small businesses I’m sure Covid made an impact.
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Leadcore with torpedo and/or snap weights
mr 580 replied to RWR1775's topic in Tackle and Techniques
So you want to troll at 2+ mph and get “deep”? Regardless of what presentation you use a good solid rod holder is required. Not inexpensive, but at least today there are good choices from a variety of manufacturers. This is a good time of year to hit flea markets and used listings for guys swapping stuff around. Invest in a track system and buy as you get the $$$. Most of the track mfg’s interchange between brands. The proper gear saves money in the long run. -
Dave Wilczak from R&R is painting. I talked to him a couple weeks ago and he was planning to do Watkins Show. He had a knee replacement in the fall so he was laid up for awhile. He’s been doing a bunch of spinner blades for some guys on West Coast making salmon spinner rigs the last couple years.
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First time keeping the boat on the lake for the season
mr 580 replied to billbobthorpe's topic in This Old Boat
Do yourself a favor and do a barrier coat then bottom paint before you launch. Gel coat is porous and will absorb water which leads to chemical reaction in fiber glass causing damage. The barrier coat is important and will prevent a lot more labor in the future. Not a hard job just labor intensive with a lot of nasty sanding. Doing it right once is the way to go. -
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Great Lakes Skipper has variety of OEM boat parts. I’ve gotten some electrical switches from them for an older Lund. Believe they buy up non-current parts for resale. The only place I’ve seen for used boat part dealers is in Florida.
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I have my riggers on a single circuit. Feed to 40 or 50 amp fuse block to on/off master switch then to junction block. Be sure and use heavy enough wires. IMO using junction blocks makes for cleaner rigging.
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Fixed cheater over flasher?
mr 580 replied to hookedupf7's topic in Questions About Trout & Salmon Trolling?
A stacked rod refers to having a 2nd rod above your bottom rod on a single downrigger with each rod having a separate release so the rods are at different depths. A Seth Green rig is a single rod with a heavy weight that has multiple places to attach leaders for lures. -
The early Digitrol s did not have bottom tracking. They only preset depths and cycled. In those days electronics weren’t networked and there was no gps. Most guys used a combination of paper graphs and flasher depth finders. Navigation was LORAN. No cell phones either so the vhf radio was the source of information or disinformation depending on the source. Electronics have come a long way since those days. Guys have so much more information available today that what was available then.