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chowder

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Everything posted by chowder

  1. Spring time trolling, starting the day and often the whole trip I zig zag from 20 fow to where the inside board is casting a shadow on the beach : Personally I use 8lb P-line for flat lines on Okuma Kokanee rods with mix of bright/natural sticks for Browns off the big boards. Typically run 2 /side to start and one down the chute and 2 very shallow riggers, 1 with natural, 1 with bright spoons. If the board lines are taking fish and riggers aren't then I ditch the riggers. If we hit a Coho and I think or hear there's more I deploy a shallow braid slide diver with small orange spindoctor w/ a short leader to Howie peanut fly (I keep a couple of my Okuma ML GLTs walleye rigs in the boat during browns season). If I'm struggling to get on the fish I will typically pull a flat line off each board and run a short core, one with a stick and one with spoon again maintaining the zig zag. Note: a spring King in the typical class for that time of year can be handled on the light board rod/line combo I'm talking about with some careful rod and drag work. As spring begins to wane but the browns remain in the skinny water hitting sticks and stingers it starts to become a possibility to hook up with bigger class King, Coho, or god forbid a bruiser Atlantic. These battles can reach epic proportions but hey- that's what fishing is about anyway and you certainly won't win all those fights. My customers like fighting cookie cutter browns on light gear and so do I so that's the way I roll and I'll take an occasional loss to a big silver as part of the package. FYI: I have never had to pull all the lines and go after a spring fish in relatively shallow water and going to Neutral isn't an option with boards out even if they are electric , too much lost time. Hope this helps -Cheers!
  2. Thanks for the word on this. Wind is definitely a concern, but can block it in between a buddy's boat and my other larger Crestliner, neither of which is going anywhere until April.
  3. I need to have some kind of relatively no hassle storage for my winter/river boat, 21.5' outboard crestliner sabre at the place where I keep my 2 boats with acess to electricity. My larger hardtop Crestliner is shrink wrapped for winter. I need to be able to get the outboard boat in and out regularly all winter long and where I keep it is perfect( not much snow there and the area does get plowed too and it close to a main road as well) except for the lake of cover. I do have a decent cover for it but it takes forever to take off/ put on and despite my best efforts water still pools in places that then freeze + I cannot get in it to reorganize etc. The Rhino Mariner option is not real cheap at $1600 but it's well reviewed which many of the 'portable sheds' are not. Anybody with experience with this particular unit please comment. Anecdotal ramblings about this topic in general are not encouraged- thankyou!
  4. I sure appreciate these insights! I still might go the ipad route for the sonar display but I do have a 2nd smaller display mounted in the wheelhouse that I use for gps/radar that could be linked to my big display and re mounted in the stern. That boat is now winterized but with this critical piece of the puzzle fleshed out by you guys I will be able to strategize this winter much much more accurately. THANKS!!
  5. I'm admitedly a cheap bastard but I've had very good luck with buying reasonably clean Daiwa 47 Sealine SHS (super high speed) for basically all my lead core and short copper rigs. Because you don't need a lot of backing on a walleye rod (unless ya hook up with a muskie) I've gotten as much as 300' copper on a Daiwa Sealine 47 SHS for walleye applications. I don't usethese reels for anything more than 150 copper on Ontario due to the need for significant yardage of backing. For walleye applications I pair the used 47 Sealine SHS with a Okuma GLT classic pro ML rod. I use those rods for almost all my walleye rigs including riggers, slidedivers and board rods up to 150 walleye copper. For longer walleye copper I usually go up to the Eagleclaw Med rod.
  6. Hey, Thanks! -I just ordered one ,makes sense to me this would help especially in conjunction with a kicker pushing.
  7. After talking to a number of people I have decided to go with the Tohatsu MFS 9.9 EEFTL. This is a tiller, EFi motor with elec start and power trim, this model also has the 4 blade High thrust prop. It weighs 118 lbs. I'm planning to use the simple steering connector available from Cabelas to link steering from the Optimax to the kicker. I am really hoping that the early Lake Ontario brown trout fishing and the NY portion of the Lake Erie Walleye fishery improve significantly over this past season's difficulties or I'm probably gonna regret dumping money into the outboard boat but I guess it will be good to have a gas powered backup for the Optimax...
  8. Thanks, that tells me quite a bit about the iPilot’s capabilities. I will try the iPilot in conjunction with the 200 Optimax and see how it steers that. The problem with doing that on Erie for eyes is that at idle the Optimax pushes the boat at 2.2 to 2.4 so there isn’t any room to have the 110 lb thrust Minn Kota turning at all. Guess I need to decide how much weight I want to add to the transom and how much money I can justify throwing at this situation
  9. PM sent
  10. Ok, my off season, walleye and river boat is an older 22' Crestliner Sabre SST outboard (I also have an older 25' Hard top Crestliner i/o kicker stup for main season Ontario). Hank at L&M did a repower to a 200 hp Optimax saltwater model before it even went into the water after finding the hull (which wasnt easy). He also installed a 72" Minn Kota 110 lb thrust 36 volt iPilot bow mount. I've been fishing with this boat now since March and I'm considering the following issues: 1.) There are times in early browns/ early salmon season (I work out of Wilson/Olcott) when, if it's rough the bow mount can struggle to maintain speed. 2.) Although the Merc has performed flawlessly so far, it is not a new motor (paid $4000 for it) and I have concerns about getting back with customers on board in the event of a failure. 3.) I am not sure that it is an ideal practice to subject the bowmount to long bouts of running 'hard' to troll but I don't really know? 4.) I have concerns that a 4 stroke 9.9 hp size kicker even at very low throttle would make the iTroll unable to perform as the autopilot. So, I'm tumbling around a number of possibilities and would love to hear from anybody with experience trying any of these things: 1. Adding a transom mount 80lb thrust electric with separate batteries from bow mount ( would be very quiet- which I love! and contribute some extra umpfh to get back and wouldn't overwhelm the bow mount's ability to provide autopilot function and the price is right ($500-600) 2. Adding a 4-6 hp 4 stroke kicker . This would have more ass to get back in the event of an issue w/ the Optimax but I'm guessing it would not overwhelm the iPilot bow mount and so I'd still have an autopilot. This option would cost around $1000 and it would not be quiet 3. Adding a 9.9 hp 4 stroke kicker. This option has pros and cons for sure: it would have significant superior performance in the event of needing backup but it would contibute a lot of transom weight to a boat that spends a lot of time on the Niagara river drifting in challenging situations. It would be quieter than a single cylinder 4-6 hp but it would also be quite expensive at somewhere around $2400+. i also have concerns that using it for trolling in the rougher water conditions that challenge the bow mount it might overwhelm the ability of the iPilot to effectively perform as an iPilot. Anybody got experiences with this conundrum?
  11. Just in case anybody is interested in this topic (hint: you probably should be- wait n see): 1.) YES, it's very simple to link a HDS gen 3 to a iPad, Lowrance purposesfully made it that way. 2.) YES, you can use the iPad to see AND DO evrything you would do as if you were at the helm or wherever the head unit is mounted. 3.) VERY SIGNIFICANTLY, at least for me as charter capt without a mate, you can use the Lowrance autopilot commands from the back of the boat which is awesome!!!) 4.) numerous people have reported that by turning brightness all the way and leaving the iPad plugged in and using a polarized screen cover and waterproof cover (an investment of about $30) there are no significant issues with visibility or potential damage to the ipad screen. So, I think I'm gonna give this a try before I put the salmon boat away. probably gonna learn the hardway that a cheap $60 used iPad isnt the best econo option but what the heck, nothing ventured, nothing gained...
  12. Not looking to add another $creen to the boat. iPads are wireless ,can be fitted with simple glare hoods and waterproof covers, they are used in many industrial automation settings because of low cost (good,used ones around $50-60)
  13. Maybe, I think the play sand bags are maybe 50lbers? I think I had 5 up there, 3 on one side 2 on the other
  14. I’ve never been a big one for running as fast as I can I guess. Not sure I ever experienced a pounding issue with my Islander in all the 13 years I fished with her. That being said, I have 2 Crestliners now , a 21.5 Sabre / 200hp Optimax and a 25’ hardtop/ 440 io and both of those boats will really ‘**** and git’ but I just won’t run them hard in rougher water. My customers and my 63 year old spinal column don’t like it and neither one has any weight forward . Also I just noticed you said you put the weight where the live wells were and I’m thinking that’s like amidst ship, right? Not sure your gonna cure nose up issues with weight there but I could be all wet
  15. I’m not savvy with this Bluetooth technology or iPads but I was finally watching my Lance Valentine Vimeo tutorial on the HDS gen 3 and he mentions controlling the HDS unit with an iPad so I am figuring you must be able to see the screen to do that. I’d like to have an iPad in the back of the boat to see my screen when I have customers on board and I am busy helping them in the back of the boat. Any help on this much appreciated . ( I have an HDS 12 for sonar and a HDS 9 for gps/radar mounted in the wheelhouse)
  16. I had an Islander for years. I put sandbags as far up in the nose of the cuddy as possible to help weight distribution and getting on plane with all the tackle + kicker I had on the boat. Using a bit of trial and error I established how much extra weight to add to starboard side of the nose to compensate for the kicker on the transom port side.
  17. Okuma GLT 7’6” ML can’t beat the price- great for browns, landlocks, Lakers, I can handle a Spring king on these rods . Very tough to bridge the gap between a rod that allows you to really feel inland lake fish and yet handle a big hot king that doesn’t want to yield
  18. You have a pm
  19. Thanks, yes I figured out how to move around in what options I was presented with. As I replied to the other poster I think the issue is that my unit is an XTS not the TS . It was a ‘value’ model and has no preloaded gps map , does not support a card and I cannot for the life of me access any serious sonar settings which in my mind probably is the case on a unit with no preloaded background map or ability to support a SD type. Oh well
  20. Yeah, I tried using this manual but mine is an XTS - the X units were apparently a ‘value’ unit and I can’t get to any of the options listed for the sonar shown in the manual. I discovered after getting a used Navionics chip for it that the X units don’t support a chip and they have no preloaded background map. I’m thinking my options with this thing might be limited….
  21. Had this in a fishing kayak, seemed to do the job, used it for vertical jigging in up to 80 fow but not getting much detail at all using it to troll. When I go to Lowrance user manual online it shows a unit with a ‘menu’ button. Mine has no ‘menu’ button ( see picture ) and I can’t seem to figure out how to get into actual sonar settings like ping, clutter, etc. Anybody who’s got one and solved this issue let me know thanks
  22. Available right now- first $35 + shipping PayPal. Thanks
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