lrg355

Flame arrestor ? You probably meant intake restrictor plate. I am expecting delivery next week of a DB 9.9 XTW3. (25 inch shaft)with remote control included. No shipping charge, no tax. $2820 total. Need to buy shift and throttle cables, about 100 bucks and will be ready to go. Sent from my SM-J737V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Ordered a DF9.9BTX3. Will be used for licker on a 3500 lb walk around cuddy. Only mod I may do is open up the restrictor plate slightly if it can't reach 5700 rpm WOT Sent from my SM-J737V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Just curious, the specs on the prop differ from the data on the porta boat website and the Suzuki official website. Porta bote spec is a 4 x 9 3/4 x 10. (4 blade 9 3/4 dia with 10 pitch). Suzuki is 4 blade x 10 dia x 5 pitch. That would make more sense. Which one came on your DF 9.9BT ? Sent from my SM-J737V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Nice work. Sent from my SM-J737V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Just watched a video of the 9.9 to 20 conversion. Under $450 for the ECM and restrictor plate on intake. 10 mins and done. Interesting. Sent from my SM-J737V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

That board shown definitely has cold solder joints. Obviously no inspection on that board. Sent from my SM-J737V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

As for the drag causing the relays to burn up, I don't believe that is a possible factor. If there were no drag and it was a direct connection from motor to cable pulley, that would make no difference on motor load until the end of the cable hit something. What would be a.problem would be unacceptable load caused by a tight.pulley or tight bearings or something similar. . Sent from my SM-J737V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

If I have a problem the first thing I usually do is check the motor under load. To do this you can hook the cable on something stationary and set the clutch to allow about a.medium load equivalent to about 10 or 15 lbs. Remove the motor cables from the board. Make some cable extensions to reach the battery, one should have an inline fuse of about 20 amp. Attach one motor lead to the battery. When touching the other lead to the other side of the battery, it should run. If it runs backward, ie down, stop quickly before a mess is made. If it runs in the up direction under a med load your motor is ok. Reversing the leads on the battery will make it run in the opposite direction. You can make a mess of the cable fast if not careful and quick in the down direction. If the motor is ok, it is probably the short stop board. If you keep the motor leads disconnected and you push the switch up, you should hear the relay click on each push up. Same thing for the down switch push, should hear a slight click if listening carefully. This is a good indication the switch is ok but the relay on the board is probably not. If you reattach the motor wires to the board and can hear the relay click but get no motion, relay contacts are probably burned. You can check for 12 vdc on the terminals for the motor leads with a meter and may see 12 volts when the switch is pushed up. This does not mean much because I have seen 12 v there on a meter with no load but under motor load the burnt relay contacts can't do the job. Sent from my SM-J737V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

When you push the up switch it turns on the coil in the relay. The coil is then "latched" on electronically keeping the retrieve relay contacts closed. The switch is momentary and returns to the neutral position when released. The up relay remains latched electronically until the cable clears the water and circuit break causes it to unlatch. To go down you must hold the switch as there is no electronic latching Sent from my SM-J737V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

It is the "short stop". Senses a very small current thru the cable into the water. When the cable exits the water the circuit is broken and the rigger stops automatically if all is working properly. Sent from my SM-J737V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

That is made by OceanSouth Sent from my SM-J737V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

The older mag 10 cannons used Omron relays that were rated for 5 ramps and they would not hold up well. The 5st and 10 stx use a much larger relay but they seem to malfunction prematurely. That website you referenced seems to have set up the new st/stx board to be used in the older Mag 10. Good news for older model Cannon owners. Most of the time guys just put in a switch and get rid of the board in older units when they go out. Sent from my SM-J737V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Recommend to use a snubber on heavier weights with the Cannon 5 st and 10 stx. The start acceleration and stop deceleration is very aggressive which may leave a new 16 lb. weight on the bottom again. Sent from my SM-J737V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Damn spell checker keeps on changing my words. Meant to say 150 qt. It would be good for a swim platform mount. I currently have a 150 Rubbermaid that I purchased at Sam's about 10 years ago for about the same $ and still is in good shape. The only problem with it is that it is difficult for one person to lift with anything inside because it is hard to open your arms enough to grab the molded in handles properly. Sent from my SM-J737V using Lake Ontario United mobile app