Schools Out

the BT that far north isnt too hot, but if you want to target them in may look to the shores out side of point peninsula, stony point, stony island, calf island shoal, galoo island. If you get south of stony point the BT fishing will get dramatically better. The pike fishing that time of year can be real hot running sticks off the boards in shallow water (use 50lb power pro leaders so you dont turn off the eyes). For eyes that time of year try guffins bay, black river bay, 3 mile bay, mud bay.... the fish will be any where from 5-35 fow.. use stick baits: husky jerks, bombers, reef runners.. try natural colors with orange bellys.. the laker fishing off stony point can be real good too. dont plan on the salmon too much... The perch fishing can be real hot in the same areas i mentioned for pike and eyes....

Went out to chuamont for the last ice trip of the season today.. Couldn't ask for a better day. Sunny, 40's, no wind. And the Perch fishing was HOT. Ended up with over a half pail of 10+ inchers... caught many more but I only kept the slobs.. Fished Johnson shoal in about 18ft of water with my usual rig of 3/4oz bass sinker below 2 spaced size 8 snells. ice was between 12-8 inches but if this weather keeps up we may only have a couple weeks left.. so get out there!

pm sent

well if your currently paying for road runner some other internet for $50 a month you wont need to buy it anymore with a wireless internet service for your laptop.. I have used the verizon VZ navigator and it is pretty fast.. so that 800 a year is already being partly paid

bump

Nice Job Brian!

nice job mike!

This fish finder came on my boat from the factory, I have since upgraded to a better unit, this has not seen alot of use. It is in very good condition and would make a great starter or second unit. (temp, depth, battery output, alarms, etc.) http://www.navmanmarine.net/Navman/Temp ... px?id=5651 $75 obo pick up in syracuse or seller pays shipping.

Vk, these are the style of flies and flashers that alot of us are using out here http://www.atommiktrollingflies.com/combos.htm

I got to second what Jolly is saying.. I am on my second tacoma (6cyl) but my last was the 4 cyl and I pulled a 21ft Lund with a 150 Merc on it no problem. When this one goes I will be buying another tacoma, you cant beat them for towing, gas, and dependibility...

I am going to have to go with salmon.. and pike trolling in the eastern basin in early May.

make that 37.. another buddy just called me and is in...

nice fish brian

happy birthday! I feel old at 25.. can't imagine 28

thanks Tom!! next batch I will have to give that a try.. I have been thinking about a planner release on the same principle, but using a piece of foam, and crimping a paper clips shaped piece of wire in the sleeve on the gator clip.. sort of like the luarevicks (sp?)

make that 33...(me and another boat)

I have had both and prefer the scottys over the blacks.. chowder glad we could all be such a help and get a general consensus

If you are looking for information on salmonoid sets ( dipsy, wire, etc) make sure you get the big water edition.. the normal one is mostly crank baits.

LH, a combination of both, you can find depth charts in "Precision Trolling" for snap weights.

start off with your weights (in this case I used 1,2,3 oz), some alligator clips (Lowes electrical) assorted shrink tubbing (Lowes electrical) and some large spilt rings. Step 1. trim alligator clips back so that the whole for the wire is within a 1/4" of the end (this makes attaching the split ring possible), I used my dremel with a cutting disk for this. Step 2. attach the weight and the alligator clips with a split ring (I found that its easiest to get the ring started on the weight; and put the weight and alligator clip side be side and twist it on the two and the same time with a pair of needle nose pliers) Step 3. Starting with the smallest shrink tube that will fit over the jaws of the alligator clip, cut and heat with a lighter to shrink on to grips. apply 2-3 layers of shrink tubbing, heating each layer before the next is attached (tip: dip the alligator clips in water before you close them so the hot shrink tubbing doesn't stick together) Finished snap weights. Now you can figure that a 1oz snap weight will get you down about 10ft, a 2oz about 18ft and a 3oz about 22ft.. at 2mph.. now for every 1/10 mph over 2mph you can subtract about 1 foot of depth and for about every 1/10 mph below 2mph you can add 1 foot of depth...this is figuring a 50/50 method (50 feet of line to snap weight then 50 feet of line to rod) One other way they I like to utilize snap weight is if you are getting a hot rigger bite in shallow water (I only have 2 riggers on my boat, so lets say that they are being run down 4 over 12 fow and back 100ft) I will let out the desired lead, put a 3oz or 4oz snap weight on the line, then place the rod in a holder at a 90 degrees to the boat. I will the let out line with the rod in the holder until the snap weight is down 4 feet. In shallow water this doesnt take much line and you can usually see the snap weight. giving you a sort of poor mans outrigger, giving me 2 down riggers and 2 out riggers. By the way the 6 snap weight i just made cost around 6 bucks to make. compare that with the 8 or so offshore is getting for one 3oz snap weight. Tight Lines!

i think total would be around 2000lbs. I have a 16.5 foot lund the is around 1650lb's total

if you go with inlines and would recomend the offshores, remove the front release and upgrade to the OR-18 release. saves chassing boards or having to let the boards slide down.

= sliderbite

each has its plus's and minus's. I am going to be running two of each this year... As for braid I run 50lb power pro..30lb PP would be just fine but the 50 is only 12lb diameter so i opt for the extra heft (and I like the 50lb for some other applications so its just easier to buy one kind).. If your going to choose just one go with wire.

happy birthday buddy!