holy mackerel

Black or clear most times. Chrome or glow when running deep or heavy stained water.

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templ ... estid=7523

I read an article a few years ago on four stroke oil. Yamalube was one of the worst. I have been running Mobil1 in my 4stroker since 94. Check with you dealer on any warranty issues. I run synthetic in the boat, atv and lawn tractor. Better protection, less breakdown. Amsoil is another good option, but Mobil1 is available anywhere. And it only holds one quart.

I have similar power on my boat, 200 Johnson, 9.9 Yamaha 4stroke. The way I have my batteries set-up are through a battery switch and either engine will charge the battery that is selected on the switch. (I use one or the other battery ,seldom both). It is best to turn off your battery switch off when not in use, I also have my downriggers and electronics fuse panel on the switch. Another good investment is a battery moniter. I have one from Cabelas mounted on the helm and can check the batteries with the flick of a switch. I am running Optima gel batteries (4years old) no maintainence so far, had them load tested last fall and they are still at 85%. I understand some have had problems with Optima when used for electric trolling motors. Advance auto will check a battery's condition for free. I have had problems before due to corrosion and suspected the battery. Keep everything clean and have them tested before buying new. Just my 2 cents.

Optima worth the bucks!!

Just bottled up 7 gallons of some NICE Catawba wine today. It's gonnna be a good summer!! Fish-on !! Good luckl to all!! Any other wine makers in the group??

You are in a good area. Try Steve's Canvas in Union Springs Rt 104 or John Mann in Sodus Point. Both guys do great work!!

Nauti Bouy's Fishi Fingers

I have been fishing a three rigger spread for the last several years. I run a Subtroll on the forth rigger, and drop it when needed, usually first thing in the morning, or when things slow down. I run 6' Cannon mag 15's for fishing and a mag 10 for the probe.I use cannon retrievers and have had "0" problems with the coated cable. I fish often with my buddy and his Scotty's, they seem O.K. the retreivers are electric fence insulaters I think, should be available at Tractor Central. I like my short stops and counters better though. It is all what you are used to. The Scotty retrievers seem to groove up easier than most.

Any Miller Lite decals around?

15# Big Game till July, 20# Big game until the fleas show, 30# Big game till Sept. Never really noticed any advantage to flourocarbon. I only use it for flies and dipsey leaders, the stiffness gets better action than mono for flies.

Do not use windex. It will reduce the life of the material. Check with any good marina or installer and they will recommend a couple of products. They are kinda pricey but can double the life of the window. I ruined a few before being convinced. One product is "303 protectant" It has UV blocker and has kept the paint on my boat like new for 12 years. I can't remember the name of the other product which I bought from the canvas installer.

Bass pro or Cabelas

Check into a product called Git-rot and dig out the rotted area and replace with this product ( similar to fiberglass resin).

Where are you getting 5% return?? I'm in!!

Dick I got new Honda cables for my Yamaha a couple of years ago at Arney's in Sodus Point. They seem to be fine and were less $ than expected. Dave

Navico made the AP12 before they bought Simrad. I had one on my '97 Lund, and still have it in my basement. I purchased a new Simrad Ap12r two years ago and they are identical. The navico had an intermittent problem in the circuit board so I retired it for parts ( the control, compass and motor). I served well for ten years. Prior to that, I only got one year of trouble free operation from Sportpilot plus and a $350 annual bill to "fix it" the next two years. (Thanks Raymarine) My vote is for Simrad. As far as I know, there are only two available A/P made for mechanical steering. Does anyone know of others?

I have a Subtroll and have been using the same coated cable for 10 years. It is on a cannon electric, stern mounted ( straight back). Bow back does not matter with Subtroll or Depth raider. HM

Good question. I would guess prop and gearing are different, for more torque. High thrust outboards were designed to push blowboats around. Sailboating was good for something after all.

Ray My main motor is oil injected so I am able to run off the main fuel tank. I currently have a "t" but plan on tapping into the second port on the fuel filter when I get the boat out of storage. You have to be careful when sharing a fuel line. One engine can pull the fuel from the other and cause performance issues. I currently have a 3 way valve at the tee, and it works o.k. , unless you forget to open it when starting the kicker.

Make sure you get a high thrust model. I know of two friends, one with a boat the same as yours using a 15h.p. evinrude 4stk. the other is a Grady 24 with a yamaha 9.9 high thrust 4 stroke. Both of these perform well. The 8hp may be on the small side when the wind and the waves kick up. I have a Yamaha 9.9 on a 22 Lund cuddy, and it performs very well. Keep in mind you may have to rely on your kicker to make it home someday and it always happens when the lake turns ugly.

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templ ... id=0017147

My 200 outboard did the same thing. Turned out to be torque of the prop rotation. There should be a small adjustable fin above the prop to compensate for torque or add a whale tail like I did. It really improved the handling and planing however, lost some top end.

I like to keep track of my balls, especially when I have my meat out or a fly down. 50hz. is best for this.

Does anyone know if the rod holders and tracks are interchangable? Will Bert's or Cannon fit Traxtech track and visa versa? Thanks