holy mackerel

Auto pilots do steer better when headed toward a waypoint via Gps. The further away, the better, or just curser up the screen on the Gps, and go to curser. I had a sport pilot plus connected to the Gps in my old boat ,22' starcraft, and it worked o.k. (except sport pilots are junk, had to repair annually) I have since upgraded to a Simrad (22'Lund cuddy) which is also connected to the gps, and once you get the gain set properly, It will hold course quite well when going to a waypoint, unless it is crazy rough.

There was a Simrad hydraulic unit for sale in the forum classified section. Do a search for Simrad. I have the mechanical model , no complaints.

Custom 31 Graphics Palmyra 315-573-4170

Tried out the new transducer Friday pm. Looks real good. To early to know if it will outlast the original Lowrance transducer. Just thought I would share this option with all the lowrance owners that have had transducer problems. It was about the same price, here is where I bought it.: http://getfeetwet2.com/cat_airmarlowran ... r=4&page=2

I just installed an Airmar dual frequency (p66) on the boat. I have a LCX-37c and have had to change the Lowrance transducer after 1 year. I found that Airmar makes transducers for most major brands including Furuno, Lowrance, Hbird etc. It has a blue connecter speed and temp. Will post feed back after a weekend trial of the new xducer.

I had a bad ground (corroded) once that tested O.K. with a test light, but would not allow the amps necessary to run a Mag 15 through. Cleaning and greasing all connections did the trick.

Looks do-able. I have a similar cut-out on my Lund with no bracket. I know of a couple of Islander out boards with no bracket.

I got mine at Seagar marine in Canandaguia.

Great products! I use the protectent on the boat and the paint looks showroom new on a '97 Lund. http://www.303products.com/shop303/inde ... -guard.cfm

http://www.lre.usace.army.mil/greatlake ... nglish.pdf Here you go. read and weep.

Yellow killer in bright sun midday, white glow plain or with green sparkle 5/8" dots (make yourself)

There is an insulator that comes with cannon riggers that breaks the ground when it comes out of the water. Sometimes you need one or two, sometimes none. It is a plastic piece, oblong with a hole near each end. It goes between your weight and swivel.

Okuma catalina 25 size holds 1000' with no backing nicely. Don't know if the still make them though, I think they changed the Catalina line for 2010. You will like the oversize handle better than the Daiwas. I have fished alot with both.

I have to agree with rod buster. I run all the same length leads on each board, because when the rods start going, your stagger goes out the window. Run your lines as close to the tow line as you can, and still get hits. You will get better hook-ups (less line stretch) and will boat fish more quickly. I prefer spoons (make my own for about $1.50 instead of a $6 stick bait) you can run a little faster and cover more water. When I do run sticks, it seems best to run all sticks on one side and not mix with spoons. Put them on the other board. Just watch your turns with spoons, I have gotten in the habit of speeding up on turns to avoid hanging bottom. You will be surprised how many fish are into sudden speed changes. I also run a small split shot ahead of the lure to stop the weeds. Good luck and pay attention to the details. They will last a lifetime.

Thermal expansion.

Got a call from a buddy last night. He was just returning from the lake and told me he went to three different launches. All were to low to launch his boat. He has charters starting next week, and has 1' of water at his normal dock. Not a good sign.

Started with Riviera, and Mac jac. Have used Big jon, Penn, Walker, Scotty,Great Lakes, Invader, Luhr Jensen.(yes I have been at it awhile) They will all raise or lower a cannon ball. I have had Cannon riggers on the boat for about the last 25 years. Started with manual, then mag 10a's now have (3) Mag 15's. (still use a mag 10 for the probe) I have older 6' booms on the gunnel riggers. Couldn't be more satisfied, they send the ball up and down, quickly, and work everyday. I also like the short stop better than the Scotty and like the counters better than BigJon or Penn. They will all do the job. I will have to try the Vector's soon, just to see.

I am waiting for a Traxstech system and an Airmar transducer, both backordered. Won't get nervous for a couple more weeks though.

I would drop a 12# cannon ball in the lake, and watch its decent. Seriously, on a moving boat, the deeper fish would be in the cone angle longer, because the cone angle would be of a larger diameter at 80' than it is at 40'. That being a fact of trig, the deeper target would appear larger mostly because of the "tails" of the arch. That is the result of your sonar bouncing off the target more times.

There is a shop in Palmyra on Main street. Route 31 he does all kinds of vinyl lettering and transfer signs. Good work, fast 315-573-4170.

Yes, the black weakens them. A freinds mother used to work at Sampo. (No deals from her either)

Sounds good.I usually have an excellent crop every spring.

I have used Sampo coastlock for probably 30 years. Not many problems, but the cost is getting a little steep. Over the years I have tried Cabelas, Bass pro, and Berkley ( discontinued). The berkley's and Spro were good, the others were not up to par. This year I am trying some Opti-tackle, they are slightly less money than the Sampos. Are there any quaility swivels out there at a reasonable cost??

I run the thin ones (Opti) for rotator/ fly. Straight 30# mono for spoons (no snubber). Watch for dry-rot. If you keep them out of the sun, they will last quite a while.

Sounds good. Haven't tried to make Diamond yet. Got the Catawba, Deleware, Apple/sour cherry and a new red variety, Noreit (red similar to Shiraz). Oh-- forgot the cranberry. Good luck with em.