CaptSpike

Jusgrinnin that would be good however I am due to go to Ontario on April 25th and I'm not sure I'll have the boat ready (or open water) for a Winni run by then. If I don't get something for that trip then I'll definitely look you up for after (unless I am ready before, in that case I'll PM you. I usually go out of sheps as I bring by buddy out (confined to wheel chari) and that is the easiest place for him to transfer into the boat. Rolmops I saw your add and that is what got me thiniking why couldn't I just weld a mounting block to the pedestal I have then mount those(or similair ) to the mounting block. how long are those holders and Not the part re rods go in but the mounting part. I would need to know how much space I need to fit those. Also spacing between rod holders would help too. Thanks, Spike

Looking for something to hold my spare rods while fishing. I saw a pedestal mount rig a few yrs back and thought that would work great. After doing some research there is little info given regarding the products I have found. I checked out Cabelas rod holder but read reviews saying you can't put the line counter reels in every spot on them, spacing is too cloe. Berts makes one (rod corral) but no info on spacing for those either. I haven't found much after those two that is still made. I already have a pedestal and was thinking of having a piece of aluminum welded to it and then just mounting a vertical four rod holder on each side. Is anyone else using anything like I have described? If so where did you get it? I'm surprised more people aren't making something like this. Thanks Spike

Heading out end of month for Browns and was wondering how to add a Coho presentation to the mix. I bought a orange spin doc (small) and a bunch of flies last yr. haven't run them yet and wasn't sure how to add them to the presentation of spring brown planer board and rigger program. I'm assuming I'd probably have to sneak out a little deeper water and probably run the spin doc off the rigger. Would I follow the typical 100" rule for set back off the rigger (30 down 7o back for example) or not? Also fly length from spin doc. What is recommended for the smaller spin doc's for fly set back distance? Would I be better off targeting browns in the skinny water then moving out to target just salmon or would a combination program work out deeper? I'm thinking maybe it wouldn't work and I should target browns inside then move out looking for kings and coho and what ever else in slightly deeper water.......Thanks for any help. Spike

Updated

Love my Honda 9.9 as well. Spike

I wax the inside and woody wax the deck. If you haven't tried the woody wax do yourself a favor a check it out. great stuff. Spike

I also use a board with a threaded rod thru it. Nut on each side of the board. Then flat washer, nylon washer and the spool of line. Then put another nylon washer (to act like a drag system) and another steel washer. Next I put a spring (found at any good hardware store, size to fit application) another steel washer and two nuts. The first nut sets the tention n the spool the next locks that tention in place. When you reel the line on you'll feel like your reeling a tripped dipsey or a 1# wieght, lol. Works great for al your spooling needs. Also cheap to make. Spike

I switched last yr to vertical trees. I have a 18' Lund and before fishing rod holders down the gunnel on some occasions (wind, turn) the planer line came back and took the rod out of the holder. I always had the furthest rod forward set straight up. The next rod back angled down one click on the holder. That was the rod that would occasionally catch the planer line and get yanked out of the holder. Luckily we were able to retrieve all the rods. Now with the trees I don't get that problem. The rods are high enough now that the planer line can't catch the rod. That is why I switched to verticals. Spike

I did a quick search and came up empty. So it is likely a dead link I have at home. I'll try it and see anyway. you can also check out Iboats. i found a lot of good info there as well. Spike

There is a site that specializes in older motors and parts. i think it was oliies board or something like that. i have the link at home and will post it when I get home tonight. I hope the link is still good as its been many years since i have visited. Spike

Some of the guys out our way swear by them. I myself haven't tried them yet but would think they would be effective for any lure you want to impart action on. Most here use traditional streamer flies with them and small spoons. I'm not sure how a spinny and fly would behave behind one. Spike

Item 1. For sale one Cannon Mag10HS electric downrigger. Bought new in 2008. 250'/min retrieve. Up to 15lb weights. Everything works, new upgraded pcb just installed ($62 value). Only reason I'm selling is Cannon gave me a new rigger to replace a faulty speed temp unit. New 300' Kell Coated Cable (coated used for speed temp units) beginning of last season. $300 firm.Sold. http://nh.craigslist.org/spo/3700981830.html Item 2. I have three spools of spare downrigger cable. First is new 200' of Kell coated cable, second is new 200' of Cannon coated cable. Third is 150' or 200' that was removed off one of my riggers and kept as spare. I don't need coated cable anymore as I have a fishhawk now. $50 for all three.Sold. http://nh.craigslist.org/spo/3701041212.html Item 3. Cannon dual rod holder, mounts on rear of downrigger. New rigger uses different holders. $30 firm. Sold. Item 4. I have three brand new never used Cannon low profile swivel bases. I have Berts swivel base never needed these. $60 each Item 5. I have two new Lund sport trac downrigger mounts. They came with the boat and I installed Bert's trac's so I didn't use these. They are drilled out for a Cannon rigger. $60 firm for the pair. http://nh.craigslist.org/spo/3701103660.html Item 6. I have a 200qt SSI cooler for sale. Used only a few times. Some scratches but in overall excellent condition. No cracks in the exterior or interior. These sell for $700 new. Sold the ocean boat so I no longer need this cooler. Too big for my new boat. Buyer pays shipping in all cases. I would rather not ship item 1 or item 6. I will be in Oswego late April/early May and could bring either item for delivery if that works. I can ship as well but I imagine the cost for either would be high. First come first serve. I will reply to pm's in order I recieve them. If first person to contact me doesn't want the item the next has their chance and so on. Thanks, Spike

If it isn't too big you could repair it with Marine Tek. I wouldn't use auto bondo. Other option is to back it up and reglass it. Start with small patches that sit in the hole and gradually build it up. When you have it built up enough sand it flush, use some filler to fair it out and either paint or gelcoat over that. Spike

I'm in, though I don't usually do well at these. Gives me a reason to watch all the games I can though. Thanks for setting this up. Spike

We ran them local with zero luck. We had spin n glo's behind them. We have also lost two rigs to the bottom. Lake Winnipesaukee is a very unforgiving lake with a ton of structure. It is dificult to target bottom dwelling species without hanging up often and at the pice of the grease trap I am now saving them for my trips out west. We get some suspended fish, but not like other lakes where they are up working a bait ball. Our most efficiant method is Yanking bottom with spoons, which works down to around 70' after that there is a ton of line out and depending on water conditions it is hard to keep bottom. Especially with how it changes so quickly on that lake. We did like the looks of the grease trap but our local fish didn't. Spike

I get what you guys are saying about local good vs foriegn. The only reason I am interested in these LC lines over traditional is locally we fish much lighter gear (smaller fish) and the traditional cores are suppose to be heavier than these new ones. If I can reduce core drag on my lighter in line set ups then I'd like to. One my full color core rods it won't matter as those are heavier rods because they are full core rods and I feel require a stouter rod when dragging ten or more colors. I can clearly see why, maybe locally to you fishing Ontario, it may not be a big diference and you would still choose traditional LC lines. I was hoping to get feed back from someone who has fished these "other" LC lines if they they had any pro's or cons. I am a little concerned on knot strength with the new sheathing. I'd like to know more about that. I guess an Albright would work fine no matter what they encased the lead in, however sometimes a lower profile knot is prefered. Looking for information on those lines and performance of durability thru the season. Thanks, Spike

Did some reading on Tuf-Line mirco lead core line and Sufix 832 lead core line. Ended up purchasing both to try out. Has anyone here tried either or both? Curious if the dive chart is really different from standard LC or if it is just hype. If it is different I'll need to regage my thinking when it comes to trolling lead core. In the spring we run 1 and two color in line set ups and eventually go down to an in line 3 color. After that we run straight core rigs and down riggers to get the extra depth (note this is on local waters not lake O.) I was hoping to get reviews of these new lead core lines but not a lot out there. So I may be one of the first to review after I get to test them out a while. Spike

Well I just ordered two boards to fix the riggers. I do like the power down option. Leaves one hand free to tend the reel. Anyway I came back to add I ordered the boards from Cannon and also ordered an additional rod holder for the new Mag10xps I got. After the order I checked prices at an on-line site. The boards from Cannon were $10 cheaper and the rod holder assy was $30 cheaper! Check your prices where ever you order from. I always assumed the manufacture would be more expensive. I would have been wrong in this case. Reason I ordered thru them was I was interacting with the service rep about what the cause could be and since he was so helpfull I figured I'd just purchase the parts thru them. Just thought I'd let everyone know. Spike

The control king has a momentary full throttle lever. If you need to "boost" your speedjust push hthe lever up and the rpm's kick up. Great for offsetting an occasional wake from another boat or for adding a short burst speed change to your program to entice a bite. Spike

All elctronic. I have a control king on my 9.9 Honda and it is awesome. Spike

Jack plates are pretty sweet too. Not cheap but very nice functionality. Spike

With my outboards I was told that after you fog them out (2 stroke) or restart after changing the oil (final run) before they cool trim the motor up and down all the way several times. This works most of the water out of the powerhead while the thermostats are open and everything is nice and warm. I don't know how true this is but it made sense to me and I have never had an issue. Always tore in lowest possible position as well. Now my boat is in a portable garage so the following weather is not a factor compared to storing out in the elements. Make sure to run compression checks at the end of the season and after you start her up for the first time (check the end of your plugs for metal deposits which could indicate cylinder wear). Most major issues (that may have occured over the winter) can be highlighted by your compression reading. I don't check the four stroke compression readings just the 2 strokes. Then you have other that do nothing and have no problems. Knowing my luck I take every precaution. They are expensive toys now and not easily replaced. Spike

My nephew used them last year locally and they woprk great. I picked up two for myself this yr. Haven't gotten out to use them yet but after seeing them last yr have no doubt they will be fine. Spike