CaptSpike

When I had problems after putting on new tires I was told to move the axel back in 6" increments until the problem went away (boat was in perfect relationship to the back of the trailer so the axel was moved). Only took me one move of 6" to fix the sway issue. With the original tires I must have been right on the edge of sway/no sway. I also added some accesory's that added weight from the original package purchase. This also plays into toungue weight. Lastly and often most overlooked is your tounge is suppose to be horizontal when trailering not tipped up or down. Different ball drop assy's should get you close if that is an issue. My neighbor drives off with his boat tilted a good 20 degrees. I imagine his boat would sway at higher speeds. Since he is just going to the local pond at 40mph he probably doesn't see it as an issue. Spike

Oh man you guys are depressing me. I head out in a couple weeks. I need upbeat reports/theories! lol. Seriously, even a bad yr there will beat anything my state has to offer. Arriving the same day as the big king bite, Spike

It sure sounds like this is going to be an early start to the run. A bunch of recent pictures have the fish coloring up already! I sure hope I don't hit it when they are staged right out front. Too crowded for my liking.....Oh well it is what it is. Spike

Well I just checked out the rigger mounting boards and went out to look the boat over. Where I have the rigger mount now it is about one foot forward of the stern. Draw a line between the two tracks and I can't tilt my motor up............... For me to go further forward I would hit my cleats and the fuel fill on the starboard side. My forward track that holds my ratcheting rod holders is as far back as I can go due to the same fuel fill and cleat. So They are the next possible location for the board. That is 21" forward from where my riggers are mounted now................Which then looks to interfer with my vertical rod holder along the back of the boat. All in all it probably isn't much further forward than normal boat layouts but the Sport angler gives you so much access at the stern I'd hate to negate that with a rigger board further forward than needed. So I think I'm just going to leave it as is. Here is a picture that shows the rear rigger tracks, the forward tracks along with the stock vertical rod holders in front of the motor. http://www.nhanglers.com/Gallery/Fishing/index.php/Open-water/Freshwater/IMG_0283 Spike

http://www.nhanglers.com/Gallery/Fishing/index.php/Open-water/Freshwater/IMG_0155 Here is a good picture of my set up. As you see I have extruded aluminum gunnels. The angle you see the rigger set at is the furthest out I can run without seeing significant twisting of the gunnel. The torque of the rigger in this position is more inline with the gunnel making it sturdier. When you rotate the rigger out the torque is now applied over the thinner area on the gunnel. I was hoping a board mounted between the tracks on the port and starboard side would eliminate the twisting because the board would be anchored latteraly across the boat. Negating the twisting. I'd hate to invest the $$ and end up with the same results..... Spike

True but the forces were in an entirely different direction. When backing up the force was along the gunnel where it is strongest not laterally. So it isn't a good judgement. When I make the video you will see it clearly. I'll shoot it Saturday if it isn't raining out. Thanks to all for your input I value everyones opinion and it's great to have a bunch of different views on the issue. Spike

Thats what I was thinking but figured Id see if anyone else had solved the problem that way before spending the $$. I haven't had great luck with recent purchases, lol. Spike

I see where your mount came undone. My swivel base had similar design where the screws ripped out of the partial thread. Luckily it was from backing into my shelter frame and I didn't loose the rigger. Your gunnels are way wider than mine. My track just about spans my gunnel. I'll get a video up this weekend. For now I'll just use them as I have been with no issues yet. Spike

The swivel mounts I am using are designed for tracks. I like the option of complete removal to a clean gunnel. The extrusion of my gunnel has like three different layers you drill thru to get thru the gunnel. I used fender washers bottom side. They will not pull thru, that I know by backing my rigger into my storage garage. The swivel mount got destroyed the track and gunnel remained in tact. I now remove the riggers before backing into the garage... Spike

OK I guess I didn't explain it right. My tracks are mounted thru the extrusion that lund uses for a gunnel. It isn't the track flexing it is the whole gunnel twisting/flexing when I put the rigger out 90 degrees or even less (more than one increment of the swivel mount). Backing it up won't make a difference as the part I'm backing to is what is twisting. I'll try and shoot a video of it. I think if I ran a track between the two sides (across the back of the boat) it may reduce/eliminate the flexing????? Spike

I have a Lund Sport angler. I run Cannon riggers on Berts swivel mount bases in tracks mounted on the gunnel about a foot up from the stern. One thing I noticed when running my rigger is I only dare turn them out one increment. Any further and I can see the gunnel flexing (twisting). When I run heavier weights (13-15lbs) this is even more noticable. Is anyone running the heavy weights with the riggers mounted to the gunnels like this rotated out 90 degrees? I'm now contemplating a board between the two gunnels just to help anchor the two sides to each other and running the riggers out the sides that way. I'm hoping I don't need to do that in order to run the riggers out further. So figured I'd ask here if anyone else has done this or seen what I am refering to. I can shoot a video of what I'm talking about if it would help. Maybe I'm just to over cautious??? Spike

Took a good look at my holders today and noticed the thin wall refered to (on the ratchet hinge point). In my opinion the worse thing you can do is try to expand, swag or what ever you choose to call it to the pins. If you do that when you go to remove them because you need to you will destroy the hole size in the aluminum. I would suggest upsetting the aluminum on the thicker side of the pin hole (inner edge) with a center punch (spring loaded would be best). This way if you need to remove the pin later it will only resize the hole to what it should be not make it bigger (make sure to center punch an area that isn't on the slot of the spring pin). I reviewed the design of the holder today also. They definitely could have made some improvements. Starting with the thin wall where the pin in question resides. Since it is a special extruded tube they could have easily extended that area towards the ratchet handle without affecting the action. I also noticed on the four I have that some were sloppyier that others. The play between the two bases that rotate was not the same on all of them. So I broke one down. Two flathead screws hold the base on (these are thread locked to keep them in place). Then you rotate The base until the two holes line up with the two screws holding the tube on. Remove these two screws (which are also thread locked). Once the tube is removed you see a shoulder screw that sets the play in (distance between) the bases. If the thickness of the top plate is not "fit" to the size of the shoulder on the screw you will get more play. I was able to crank the shoulder screws a tad on the two loose ones I had. One tightened it up better the other did nothing. The two sections rotate on the shoulder screw. I did not see a bushing and I couldn't tell if there was a plate between them (to prevent metal on metal) it didn't look like it. I guess with all the axis movement there will be sacrifices in fit of the assembly. I'm pretty sure with the amount of use I will put these thru I should see yrs of use out of them with no trouble. I can certainly see if I used them a lot where trouble could show up. If you use them alot you should do as suggested above and tear them down (very easy) and make sure there is no problems: galvonic corrosion from two different metals, metal on metal wear (no buffer). I am also wondering if one of the plastic pieces break can replacem,ents be found at local shops or should I preorder a couple to have on hand just in case? Thanks, Spike

I fished on this boat with Rod a few yrs ago. Nice comfortable boat to fish out of. Rod keeps everything up to snuff as far as maintenence goes. Someone will be happy with this boat. Good luck on the sale Rod. It's tough to part with a boat you have a lot of memories on. Spike

Great I just switched over to these from the Bert's. Guess I'll keep an eye out for this. Not being to familiar with the holders (just put on the boat and have used them once) I'm thinking to keep the pin from coming out maybe a center punch on the edge of the hole will help keep it in place. I'll check it out next time I pull the boat out. Any chance you could post a picture up of exactly where the issue is? Thanks, Spike

First off let me say we typically yank copper line in NH. I have found that copper sinks like a rock on a turn which is likely where you collected your debris. We troll .5-.8mph and let enough line out to just tic bottom with the lure while Yanking (jigging, jerking) the line. As depth changes you will need to let out more line or bring line in. This is where it gets tricky and frustrating for most. We use heavy leader material (25 lb) because you are in contact with the bottom. This method is deadly for lake trout. I have been meaning to put up a video explaining the technique but never got around to it. Maybe next trip out (if the wind cooperates) I will.Im sure out there you don't need to tic bottom and can likely be successful at depths where the bait is. You probably just need to add the jigging action to the lure. Spike