K Gonefishin

Purple tiger glow, kelly green, chartruse and black are my favorite diver colors. Diver>snubber>6-8 ft leader> spin doc>22-26 leader> ATM fly> big king

I prefer glass, they troll easier, catch less wind, track better in rough water, ride better, and are drier and if you buy a quality boat you don't have to worry about rotting floors and transoms over time 100% composite are best at 2nd would be boats that do have wood have the wood encapsulated inside the glass I believe grady's are like this. Nothing wrong with a big bad alumimum trolling machine though my friends have Lund Fisherman's, Pro V's, Tyee's, Starcraft Fishmasters, Superfisherman, and all fish well and will handle some serious rough water but I prefer glass.

Cabelas bargin bin- HDS-7 then buy a platnium chip for it.

Look into the walleye tournament style boats. Skeeter 2050, Ranger 621, Lund GL 208, Yarcraft etc. Check out the STX 2050 by Starcraft its there tournament boat it rides great and just as good as many glass boat a couple of my friends have them,

If you slow down to around 1.5mph and put it on a 2.5 setting and let it out 150 back with no rigs on it. Pop the diver and scream the line in you'll see how far off the side it surfaces. I run harnesses shallow (30-50 ft) for walleye and since we are going slow and nothing like faster speed and spin docs aren't dragging it back (and less line out) you get a true idea how far they really do plane. It's decieving salmon fishing

You have something set up wrong. I have 2 lowrances on my boat and can mark bait and fish around 35mph even with a 200hz. Do you have a HDS-10 or LCX 112,110 or 113? What tranducer and where is it mounted? do you mark bottom on plane ?

Yes. Here is the links, click pics for larger images. http://lotsa.org/Wire%20Line%20Knot.htm I have yet to have this fail and believe it's the goto knot for just about everyone. Wrap your spool with black electrical tape prior to spooling so the wire has something to dig into, otherwise the entire spool of wire will just spin and spin, or some mono whatever you do just don't tie the wire on directly.

You'll love the wire divers and they are usually the top producers. Learn the LOTSA wire line knot for connecting your swivel to the diver and when the last 6-10 ft get curly Q'd cut it off and start fresh. Spool it nice and tight but not overly tight you don't want to get a screamer on and hear ping! if the line gets caught up in itself. After spooling fresh run out to deep water and clip on some lead and let out 700ft of line and crank it back in so you know all the line is on your spool properly keeping tention on it while reeling it on, piece of mind IMO. When letting it out keep your clicker on and thumb it out till you get to about 50 ft then I usually put it in my rod holder engage the reel and let it out on a nice slow steady drag, sometimes you'll even get blasted doing this. Don't keep your drags tight nor your divers release your hook up % will suck, back off the drag some when the fish runs but always keep steady presssure. Trial and error will make you a better stick. Good luck

Go to conny at the ohio/pa border and you can catch a 6 man limit by noon

Most guys run divers on a 2 setting as running them straight back could cause tangle in your riggers or with the way currents run two divers even on a wide beamed boat they could and will run right into each other even on a slight turn. They also take your presentation out and away from the boat which helps as well and provides more of a spread. You also mentioned copper, you don't run copper with dipsy divers. Copper sinks on it's own so diving device needed.

I rig alot of my own flies and I still have some of the old danielson 6mm rattle beads and those flies get crushed much more than ones that don't. I believe rattle work expecially on deep fish.

Duo lock's provide the spoon with room to swing and wiggle through the water as well, free movement better action = more bites I don't tie anything swivels across the board.

8'0 ft medium rigger rods and co-polymer line (Maxima) my landing ratio on rigger fish is probably 98-% after hookup.

For less errors run it on a big board,and or run your divers on a #2 setting and watch your turns then run your copper down the chute. Your turns should be very wide. Copper won't run as deep with a spin doc on it due to the drag.

If it's bleeding it's most likely going to die. I would have kept it, expecially if the blood was coming from the gill area if it was belly, head or face then that will heal over time. I catch a couple hundred large walleye ever year out of Erie and try and let the big gals go but bleederss go home. I do have a 50 inch livewell with recirculation so I'll often put a big one in there to see how it does and after and hour you can tell it won't make it

Awesome rods top of the line

I have one but haven't installed it yet. I'm running a 38HD and HDS-8 but only running a 200 shoot thru and have them networked it's great for Erie but leaves alot to be desired for deep water fishing on Ontario. How is the 83/200 performing for you guys? downrigger tracking, marking fish deep, bait balls etc.

Ohh..Erie took a Beckman net of mine back in late May as well.

saturday got caught in a storm stood up in driving rain driving 30mph and a pair of 200.00 costa sunglasses flew of my head with one of my favorites hats flew into the lake.

First time I've heard of someone having problems with Ugly Sticks maybe newer quality is going downhill. I run alot of shimano trolling rods Talora and TDR and I've been pleased with them, tried some cheaper Okuma's pure garbage they do have some nicer rods in the 70.00 range but haven't tried them, come to think of it I don't like anything Okuma. I do have some Heatlands for riggers and the epoxy arounds the eyes is cracking already and I only use them 20 days a year and they are only 3 years old, slightly dissapointed but we'll see how they last in the long haul, diver and rigger rods take a beating so for 25-30 bucks what do you expect.

A 196 needs at least a 150 ideally a 175, it will ride and handle SO much better and will allow you to navigate waves and swells with ease expecially with a full load and the motor won't struggle. I've been in a 196 no less than 50 times with a 115 and it was a dog, no bow control and the boat pounded and rode poorly the motor didn't have enough balls to get the hull out of the water it just pushed it no giddy up. A bigger motor will actually use less gas because it struggles less to accomplish the same task as a smaller one doing the same speed. Not to mention resale value most guys don't want sleds. I have a 21 ft boat and I have a 250 on mine and only fish Erie and Ontario and I get to scream across the lake plenty. Not to mention what fun is 20mph?

Why aren't you guys running 3oz inline weights with colorado blades its by far the best bread and butter program in Ohio the guys out east in geneva-conny are smashing fish running 3oz 90-125 back at 1.5-2.0 pulling antifreeze, pink antifreeze and copper back #6 colorado's and taking 20-30 fish by 11am. Dipseys with double willows are also tops. All the charter boats fish 50 jets with double willows, single colorado. Alot of guys run reef runners with 3oz of weight. Same fish different state you NY boys fish for walleye way different IMO you complicate it I wouldn't even pull the leadcore, riggers, or torpedo's out.

Thanks for the feedback. I have 45lb from ATM right now can't say I enjoy fishing with it so if this stuff is better I'm open to switching.and your right the first 50 ft is a bare to get going

What about backlashes is it really better?