Rookie Fisherman

If you did change the AP you could probably use the existing pump. Just need Course computer & compass. Easy swap. Put one of the Head units at the stern so now you can steer from the back of the boat while trolling!

Honestly not sure. That would be a good question for Raymarine. Their Forum is great. You will have to register a user name to ask the questions. http://forum.raymarine.com You could always change the Auto Pilot too

I I ordered a 9.9 Merc for a buddy of mine from Online Outboards as you said no problems delivered right to your door a a great price! Mercury outboards up to 30HP are built by TMC "Tohatsu Marine Corporation". However TMC is a Joint Venture partnership corp formed between Tohatsu & Brunswick (Mercs parent company) in the late eighties. They build both Mercurys and Tohatsu at this plant but as Sk8man said the specs are not the same across the line up. Merc mid engine sizes are also build it China at a separate factory. Merc large engines are assembled in Wisconsin

Any of the 9.9's should push the boat just fine. As I mentioned above though the Pro Kicker will do better in wind/waves simply because the prop grabs more water. Another thing to consider is maintenance, repairs & parts. Who of those manufactures have a good reputable shop in your area should you need work on the motor.

The 9.9 Suzuki is a lot of engine for the money. 12 amp alternator 3 year warranty The Tohatsu also has EFI, 12 amp alternator & 5 year warranty. The Mercury 9.9 is a carb unit, 6 amp alternator. Warranty right now is 5 year (3+2) Alternator output may or may not matter to you depending if you are running any additional electronics on the same battery as the kicker. At trolling speeds you don't get full alternator output anyway. Something to consider.... at the $3030 price for the Mercury you are looking at the Pro-Kicker (PK) model I assume. The Pro-Kicker is lower geared with a taller/deeper gear case and a larger 4 blade thrust prop. The Pro Kicker is specifically designed for trolling and in wind/waves it will out perform the other 2 engines in these conditions. To get the Merc with EFI & 12 amp alternator you have to go to a 15HP. It probably adds another few hundred bucks to the cost but is one hell of a Kicker. Only adds 14 pounds over the 9.9. What size boat are you installing it on?

Yes. $275 on its own. Understand though the 7" is a Slave unit. So as a standalone unit it is just a Chartplotter/Nav unit. Needs to be networked to have other functions such as sonar etc.

Yeah Actisense has a lot of NMEA cords & hubs for sharing data on a network, not sure if if will allow you to control one brands device from another brand. Worth calling them though. Installation on all of this stuff is easy, its all plug and play for the most part. Its just making sure to get the right components to make it all work as it should.

Not sure you can, Maybe. That would be good question for Humminbird tech support. My guess is to operate your Ray AP from your Helix units you would have to change out the Course computer, Compass & rudder feedback to Humminbird stuff. Should be able to use the same pump though. If thats the case not sure its Worth it though.

Not at this point. See the slave unit needs to be networked to have all functions other than chart plotter. Makes its tougher to sell if someone buys just the master. If you were to buy just the master w/transducer its about $1300 currently online. So a little more you get a second head unit ($1000 online) and the network cable ($100) Plus a couple of Nav cards. All the items I have posted in this package are New in the box, never used except the second head unit. About 2 months of use on that.

I have both Cisco & Traxstech products on my rig. Happy with both. Get ratcheting rod holders for your divers. Many guys like the Cannon with the one handed operation.

All Pm's answered. Had a couple questions regarding networking & install. So here is a basic diagram for the 2 unit install. Additional units or other electronics can be added to the network by using a Network switch. (basically a splitter)

2 Raymarine Axiom MFD's 1 x Axiom 9" RV MFD (Brand New in box) 1x Axiom 9" MFD (used >1 season) 1x Real Vision-100 Transducer (Brand New in box) 1x 5 Cable to network together (Brand new in package) 3 misc Nav cards Selling because I was going to put this system in my small boat but have decided to sell that boat. Network cable will allow full function & intel sharing between both units. This is a great foundation for someone starting to Rig a boat or switch over as its fully expandable. Radar, Auto pilot, Thermal cameras, engine & fuel management & other data devices an be easily added & fully networked. I have been running the Axiom units (along with other Ray products) for 2 years now on the bigger boat and am completely happy. Raymarines customer support on their website forum is exceptional. Lots of You tube videos on these units showing features & operation tricks $1600. I will ship for additional cost. Insurance & signature will be required. PayPal is fine. Any questions let me know. Message here or text 518-366-466 Thx. Rod

For guys who have riggers that have hard/sudden start & stop it can take some stress off the equipment & gunnel of the boat. I use snubbers when running my Amish boards. I also use them when bottom bouncing for Lake Trout on my riggers. Takes some stress off the boom and creates a little more height separation between the presentation and weight, less chance of hanging up the spinners or hooking some Zebra Mussels. Like HB2 said I personally don't see a reason to use them on a diver. With good drag & proper setting its not necessary.

I'll bet the picture is wrong, if you order you will probably just get the hardware kit portion. If you read the description below it states "hardware kit only" Maybe contact the seller(s) to be sure

The iTroll adjustments are much finer. Had a trollmaster on the last boat no comparison in my opinion. It is more money, but worth it I feel. Also the guy thats runs iTroll (think his name is Joel) is great with handling customer service needs. Mounted mine to the SB side downrigger rod holder plate. (at the suggestion of another member) Can easily be adjusted by anybody on board without having to go to the helm. Also wired in a secondary run/idle button underneath the gunnel of the port side.

This is a good point about the Blacks breaking the snap bend. I have seen this too. At the end of the day when taking off the weight some guys (me included) attach the snap in an eye-lit on the rigger body then tighten the rigger cable up. If tightened/snugged up too much this puts added pressure at the bend point eventually causing it to break.

Hey Earl Both Amish outfitters and Scotty have down rigger snubbers. https://amishoutfitters.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=52 http://scotty.com/product/no-370-trolling-snubber-w-sampo-ball-bearing-swivel/

Either breakaway system from Fish Hawk or a well made do it yourself cable will work fine. As spoonfed originally said the idea here is a sacrificial cable between the probe and the weight. Much rather loose a weight than a probe. Although with the heavier Shark weights at close to $100 now loosing one of those would sucks too.

Fish Hawk has a 70lb break away cable. This goes between the probe & the weight. I keep a spare on the boat incase any signs of fray or deterioration.

Tackle box full of stuff on the way! Mostly Plastics, few hard baits.

I missed it, read the original post and went right to a response.