rolmops

Good luck, enjoy and stay warm

When you replace the floor, you will also have to replace the foam that is under the floor. It is probably water soaked and very heavy. You can either use CLOSED cell foam in boards which you can cut in strips you can buy at Lowes or buy the liquid that expands when you pour it. Every boat under 20 foot length must have it by law. Do not use styrofoam. It is not a closed cell material and will soak up water. Before installing that ,you should look at a bunch of Youtubes about the how and why. You do not need marine grade plywood for a floor, granted ,it is a lot denser and would be very good material but it rots just as fast as any other plywood. The secret is in how you seal the wood. As mentioned above, you should seal the top and the bottom with several layers of paint ,or ideally, epoxy paint that penetrates and seals. Do not use pressure treated plywood, the chemicals in pressure treated react to the aluminum and will cause severe corrosion. The vinyl covering is a good idea. I have glued it on in my boats with always a few inches of overlap going up the sides to make sure no water would get under the floor.

did you mean: vieux cervaux de pet?

So about a year ago I bought a tailfin remote control kicker steering setup and I was not overly happy with it because fine tuning the remote control steering speed was an issue and I still had to do the speed control from the front end of my Islander. So what to do? I bought a powerpro 3 remote control kicker speed controller and installed it. The installation was simple and it works well. But now I found myself having to deal with 2 remote control fobs. However the powerpro3 remote has a setup for steering control and speed control which works in combination with a panther steering actuator. In comparison, the tailfin actuator is straight, very well sealed and works on a screw driver principle ,where the panther pushes a piece of cable back and forth and works hanging at 90 degrees from the actuator shaft with a plastic cover to keep it all dry. Besides, the steering is very abrupt I like the idea of having everything working off the same fob, so I connected the the tailfin actuator motor to the powerpro3 wiring. It worked but the actuator worked full speed only and it was hard to fine tune anything. After some head scratching I decided that if I would lower the voltage a bit , say from 12 volt to 10 or 9 everything would slow down a bit but still work. So I bought an actuator speed controller (progressive automations model AC-14) and placed it in between the boat battery and the the powerpro3 blackbox. It works great. By lowering the voltage a bit , the actuator slows down while the speed control still works like a dream. I love it! It also means that it is possible to combine the 2 systems instead of having to buy a completely new setup

I learned that a transformer is not the ticket ,but I found a dc speed controller for actuators so I'll take that route

Here goes. I have a tailfin (powertran) remote control wireless steering setup and a powerpro 3 wireless speed control both for the same kicker. I need 2 remote control fobs to run this setup which I do not like very much. So I tried to hook the tailfin actuator into the powerpro 3 and now everything is through the powerpro 3 controls. The only problem is that the speed of the actuator is no longer controllable and it goes full blast which makes it quite tricky. I am thinking of putting a 12 to 6 volt transformer in the wire going to the actuator so it will get half the voltage and hopefully slow the actuator down by 50 %. Will the actuator speed actually go down or will it stay the same ? As always, thank you for your advice. Rolmops

I had a similar problem a couple of times because I often over tighten stuff with my big hands which my wife used to call coal shovels. Usually I try to squirt a lot of penetrating oil on the top if I can get to it. And after about ten minutes I take a hairdryer and try to warm the filter up a bit, then I use a very big old pipe wrench that goes around the filter and that usually does the trick. I never tried a screwdriver ,but I think that it would not work as well as a pipe wrench because it has less leverage and the force is applied on 2 small areas which may just tear a longer hole.

They were made for narrow wood covered creeks

Found it in British Columbia.

If the motor has been sitting around for a number of years without turning at all, it is quite possible that it froze up a bit. These motors are basically windshield wiper motors and easy to open and close as long as you keep the brushes in place. I would try carefully put a visegrip on the shaft and play around a bit to see if it loosens up. If if does, but the motor still does not want to turn when power is put on it. You should just open it (with the help of penetrating oil) carefully so the brushes don't move and see if you can lubricate the shaft and clean the brushes. (There are springs under the brushes) I made a special tool to put the motor back together. It is easily made of the top of a soup can or a piece of thin hard plastic that is bigger than the motor, You take tin snips and make a long rectangular cut in the top that is wide enough to allow it to slide without having to touch the bolts. The cut should be made at he same length as the outer diameter of the motor but the top should still keep its shape. And that 's the tool. When you are done cleaning and lubricating, make sure that the brushes are in place with the springs in proper position, lay the "soup" tool on the motor so everything stays in place and press it down. Now with the tool in place,put the cover back on and screw it down until it touches the tool. Now pull the soup tool out and screw the cover down the rest of the way. All of that is just to keep the spring loaded brushes in place. Don't forget to eat the soup.