rolmops

do you still have that Grady? If so,is it a closed bow and does it take an outboard? thank you,Cornelis

If you were there you must have met me,we just were not properly introduced.

Yesterday, a group of volunteers gathered next to the Genesee River to prepare the pens and get them ready to be lowered in the water. It was a small and very dedicated group of people. They worked in nasty cold, windy and rainy weather,but that did not seem to matter at all. In a few days the pens will be filled with fry and hopefully in 3 years there will be a lot of big fish coming back to the river. Thank you volunteers for making the Rochester fishing experience a better one!!

You can use the battery that is not being charged for the radio and you will not have the problem. Or even have a dedicated battery,disconnected from your engine charging system, just for your sensitive electronics. The alternative (fine tuning your power supply) is probably far more expensive.

http://www.ishopmarine.com/ishop/jsp/As ... 100-005-EJ

Last year around this time they were on the south-east side well south of the bridge in 25 foot of water. I think that they spawn there.

You should use your remote control and go as low as you can without shutting off the engine. This is to make sure that your idle is at the lowest possible point to start with. After you have set the idle with the engine in neutral you want to go for a ride and finalize the adjustment while the engine is under a load.That way you fine tune the whole thing

Yes,that is very good compression. sorry for just serving you the generic low idle adjustment .I somehow forgot that this is 3 carbs and not one like on my 1957 35 horse engines. The process remains the same,but you will have to try and play the same trick on all three and set them roughly the same.Just remember that too lean a setting is not very good for the engine at all.It is safer to err on the rich side. As for mixing oil.This engine is a 1:50 but 1:40 is not terrible, 1:60 can kill it. My favorite fuel stabilizer is "Seafoam". This is not only a stabilizer, but also a carburetor cleaner and it decarbs the cylinders. I dump half a pint in every third tank and of course in the fuel that is left in the tank in winter. In 12 years on my 1957 35 horse Johnson I have yet to have trouble starting up in spring with fuel that has been in the tank all winter. Your lower unit takes special oil and not the regular lower unit oil.This is because you have an electric shift system that requires slightly different oil,or it will simply not shift. good luck!

You do not need a tachometer for that one. It is best to do in open water. Close the needle all the way.(hand not quite tight). Turn it back open about 1 1/2 turns. Start the engine and let it run a bit.Now lower the RPMs as much as you can without killing the engine. Slowly close the needle,the RPMs should go up.Keep on closing until the engine starts sneezing,now turn it back open a quarter turn and you are done. You should be at about 800 rpm. If you do this on a hose or in a barrel you will get different results because the water pressure on the exhaust gases is not high enough. If you decide to do this in a barrel,make sure that the water level in the barrel is higher than your water pump.

Did you know that "All Things Considered" from NPR has higher ratings and more listeners than Limbo?

I presume that you are a Rush Limbo fan. I love NY and I have a cottage on Owasco Lake. I would love to get natural gas out of the ground and into the pipes in NY,but there is one big problem.In 2005 during the Bush administration a law was passed that took away the Environmental Protection Agency's power to regulate gas drilling.In that law there is a loophole that allows the gas companies to pump whatever chemicals they want into the ground without having to publish what sort of chemicals they use. This loophole is called the the "Halliburton Loophole" and was created by vice president Cheney who used to be the boss of Halliburton. Whatever chemicals were pumped in during the fracking process seep back out later on together with the gas. That is why people living on top of the gas bonanza in NY are very worried for very good reasons As for politics, wake up man and turn off Rush Limbo. Rush is selling you a lot of hot air that makes him a millionaire and keeps you misinformed. Below is a link to the NY Times article about this loophole http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/03/opinion/03tue3.html

For an rpm gauge you should look into "Tiny-tach". Very easily installed and very precise. Just wrap one (red) wire around one of the spark plug wires and hook one (white) to a ground.The digital readout will give you correct rpm and also engine hours. http://www.tinytach.com/tinytach/index.php

As for the good news,there are no lampreys in Owasco

I'll be there.

There is a free launch in Owasco Park in Auburn and there is another free one halfway down the lake on the west side due east of Scipio Center road.This one has good acces and good parking,but it is rather shallow. The one bait shop on the south end sells dreamweaver super slims! As for way behind the times.I like it that way.Let the tourists with their jet fleas and other weekend warriors go to Cayuga and leave me in peace at my cottage!

I did catch about 9 or 10 browns last summer. Most of them about a mile north of Ensenore and all in the 4 pound range. This was during a 2 day at our cottage in July and most of them over 120 feet of water at about 45 foot down.I remember thinking at the time that they must be hooking up to schools of saw bellies.All except for one that had damaged gills because of the lure were released.

The Sierra kits that you bought are not OMC and they will differ slightly from the originals.You can mix and match with the older parts that are in good shape. The retainer clip holds the float needle in place. If you look at the needle you can see where you can clip it on and then the other ,longer part goes around the float part where the needle sits.It is however not a tight fit. You should pop the plugs.You can just take a small screw driver and punch through the middle with the help of a hammer and pull them off.That way you have access to the tiny passages. Anything rubber must be removed and the jets should be marked and removed to make sure they go back to the same place that they came from You should soak the carbs and parts in carburetor cleaner fluid for a few hours and then let them air dry.(some people spray everything with "Dragon Breath") When that is done ,just put them back together and if you did everything properly you should be fine. There are a few you tubes on the net that will show you how to do everything, but you should by now have gotten a manual.

Gander Mountain at $44 per 1000 foot

http://www.ishopmarine.com/ishop/jsp/As ... 100-005-EJ At this point it is really a smart idea to use a manufacturer's service manual and my advice would be to wait until you have it. Anyway,here is how you start. Disconnect the battery cables from the engine. Here is a print of your intake manifold,you can play with the buttons until you get a nice big print that has no parts numbers section on the screen.On the top you find the air intake.Start by carefully removing all those parts.when you are finished you can see all three carbs. Now take a felt tip and mark the carbs as high, middle and low. this is important because they must be returned to their original location. Now make sure that you disconnect the main fuel line from the fuel pump.Looking at the carbs you will see that every carb is connected to the intake manifold with 2 bolts and nuts. they are probably 1/2 inch or 9/16th heads. take an open wrench and loosen them all,but do not take the nuts off just yet.(it should be quite easy to loosen them.) Now carefully disconnect the manual choke rod.( the electric choke rod usually falls out so make sure you see where it is situated When you can move all the nuts by hand take them off starting from the bottom carb with a magnet in your hand so the nuts will cling to the magnet.(fishing for nuts in a dirty engine cowling is not easy).when all the nuts are off you should be able to just take all the carbs off the studs. Now lay them on a clean peace of cloth or paper and take a picture. Next take off the connecting rods and the fuel lines and put every carb in a baggy which is also marked high middle and low. good luck.

I thought that the walleyes in Owasco are stocked by a private group and not the DEC

There is an additional thing that you should find out about.Boats over 20 foot length have different safety regulations from those under 20 feet,also something to do with insurance.Surely some members on this board know the differences.

Take the 22. I fish from a 19 footer with open bow . It is just not big enough to take the bigger waves that Lake Ontario throws at you.I always have to be very careful about when it is safe to go out with my little boat. The Islander with its closed bow and the extra 3 feet will give you a lot more stability and much more fishing time than the 19 footer.

I would add to that replacement of all the fuel lines in the engine area.They may still be the old alcohol sensitive material.

There is a small plate on the transom bracket with the model# and the serial # .Let me know what it is and I will tell you the the year.

Yes you can do it yourself. If it takes that guy 4 to 5 hours to rebuilt a carburetor and a fuel pump,he must be taking a very long coffee break. If something is wrong with the fuel pump you can buy a kit for around $20 online and for carburetor rebuild,you can get a carb kit for less than that.The fuel pump is very simple and the carburetor is a bit more involved because you need to make sure that all the small passages are open. If you want a good mechanic ,your guy is Bill Mayer at Mayers marine(tel#323-1010) at the Irondeqoit Bay outlet. He will charge $40 an hour ,but he will do it in about one hour.He opens shop on April first.