rolmops

http://boatinfo.no/lib/mercruiser/manuals/mercruiser8.html#/0 This is a series of technical manuals. Just go to where it says libraries and then to manuals. You will find your manual. All your questions and a lot more will be in there. Do not put this on a commercial boating website , there will be copyright issues

Yes there can can be pieces of rubber in the cooling system. The best way to get them out is by removing the thermostat and run full pressure garden hose in the reverse direction. Before you do that you should double check if there is a blockage n the little hose that feeds the tell tale (pisher) spiders like to crawl in there and lay eggs.

Before you weld anything you should try home made u-bolts and clamps. A home made u-bolt is a a threaded 3/16 or tops 1/4 rod that is bent to fit snug around an outboard housing. a regular clamp with bolts will make it sit real tight. Another idea is using heavy duty 6 or 8 inch fernco clamps. they are stronger than the regular ones and can be tightened up a lot more, heck , you may add a third hose clamp. But welding on cast aluminum is not a great idea.

It is time to give Hank a call. L&M is known for doing magic to broken blocks. He has fixed more than just a few. You can send him a PM. His handle is "L&M".

+1 and put some grease where needed

No its one and the same. He became a member in '16.

I'm thinking that a 70 horse evinrude vro is probably late 80s or early 90s. They still used hoses then that were not impervious to alcohol. I would suggest that you replace all the hoses on both sides of the fuel pumps(vro) and check the fuel filters both in the tank and along the lines. If it is a 1980s VRO I would suggest you remove it and either replace it with a past 1991 vro pump or just replace it with a regular fuel pump and mix your own fuel. The early generations of VRO pumps are notorious for failure and destroying engines. If you choose to go with a regular fuel pump you will probably have that engine for the next 30 years.

Now that you are down to the bare aluminum, you have a good chance to use some "Gluvit on the inside of the hull. You don't have to do the entire thing,just a few dabs here and there where you see suspicious rivets. As for drainage under the foam, You can lay some bubble packaging plastic strips on the bottom and pour the foam on top of it. That will take care of drainage. Just remember that if you spring a leak, the drainage can also work in the reverse direction. The main reason for foam to go bad is not leakage ,but rain. Rain water gets on top of the foam and stays there until winter when it freezes. The freezing of the water causes the closed cells to break up. Do not leave your boat uncovered out in the rain for long periods of time. It is a slow process. I think that the foam has a good track record if you figure that it was put in in 1989 and you replace it in 2017. Maybe it should have been replaced 5 years ago ,but even so.. Foam has an upward force of 60 pounds per square foot and your engine alone weighs 540 pounds (3 liter mercruiser) add to that the aluminum weight and other things that you carry and you can see how you need about 25 cubic feet of foam. Try and buy 25 cubic feet of pool noodles and shove them in the hull, and when water freezes on noodles they also disintegrate because they are made with a short life expectancy in mind. On a final note. A 28 year old boat that only now has to have its transom and foam replaced, has a pretty good track record. If you fix the transom and pour the foam in you probably are good for another 20 years. Good Luck

The main reason why foam is the preferred material in spite of all the bad rap it is getting is that it sticks to the bottom of the boat. If you ever are in a sinking boat, you want the flotation material to be sticking to the boat without any empty spaces that will fill up with water before you know it. You do not want material that is loose, because the upward force may very well lift the floor of your boat and then all that flotation material will escape and your boat will sink.

When I redid the transom on my 191 Islander I used 3/4 marine grade fir which is a very solid plywood. I took the old transom out and laid it on a big piece of cardboard,took a carpenters pencil and drew a line following the contours of the old transom. That was my blue print. Next, I cut 2 pieces of plywood and glued them together using a 1/4 inch piece of plywood on top and about 12 concrete blocks to press down. The hard part was removing the old transom, but with the help of a cherry picker it came out more or less in one rotten piece. That was after having removed the outdrive and the engine to make things simpler. As for paint. It depends on whether your boat is in the water for weeks at a time, where it is stored and maybe it is a "Trailer Queen" If it is in the water all the time,use a two component epoxy paint to seal it. Use this only if the plywood is exterior or marine grade. Interior plywood will rot inside if there is even one spot where water penetrates. If the boat is dry and out of the water most of the time ,you can use Valspar exterior latex. This stuff is designed for outside walls of out buildings. Your transom is out of the elements so if you use 2 or 3 layers, this is plenty good. Tractor supply also has some high quality outside wood paints that are equally good. Wherever you drill a hole ,make sure that you squeeze M5200 in and around it to keep the water from penetrating. Instead of drilling holes in the transom for fish finders and such, it is a good idea to put some 1x4 board on the outside of the boat , all your screw holes will be in this board and not in your transom. As for pingpong balls instead of foam, that would make it very expensive and they would "escape". Foam when properly poured is by far the best also for structural support, although I believe that boats over 20 feet length are legally not required to have flotation foam. Hope,this helps. Good Luck.

I use a 110 volt vacuum sealer together with an inverter that makes it run of my boat battery. I clean my fish on the lake and vacuum pack it before going home. This way I have no problem disposing of skin and bones and the wife likes clean very fresh fish without having to deal with the dirt and smell of dead fish. It's better than Wegmans!

I have one for safety hooked into my GPS and set up for MMSI broadcast in case of emergency. As for person to person communication specially about where the fish is.... Let's just say that it is a thing of the past.

When he is done with the Sistine chapel orders, he should do a few magnums with angels dancing on the tip of a pin.

it was the same story with Northern King lures. The reason behind their failure was very sad. All their time, money and energy had to go into taking care of a family member with cancer. There may be very sad or very bad reasons for these ugly business failures. Having never bought a single thing of him, I refrain from judging.

Yes they are there. I have caught them while using my Zebco 33 with 8 pound line while casting from the west side towards the shallows at Mayers Marina using castmasters (1 ouncers). You may laugh,but I love that little Zebco. It is always in the back of my car and ready at a moments notice.

I have never seen a gobi in Owasco Lake. Next time you think that you found a gobi in a laker stomach, cut it open and check if there is a swim bladder. If you find it, then it is not a gobi, they do not have bladders. Spiny flees are plentiful in Owasco.

Shore or charter in Maui Hawai? I'll be spending a few weeks in Maui this summer, does anybody have any tips about fishing there?

I believe that Keuka is the big exception. No lampreys and no Gobies. Let's try to keep it that way.

They are easily available. Just take a pair of plyers and squeeze the barb flush to the metal. They either break of or they just stay where you squeezed them to.

One alternative is an Evinrude 25hp e-tech. The weight issue is no longer much of a factor and you will have one the best engines on the market it weighs 146 pounds , the next would be a 4 stroke Tohatsu at 157 pounds and the price is more reasonable. If you worry about the extra weight , you can always move things around in the boat, like putting the battery up front . For towing, the extra 50 pounds are really an issue because of the extra weight in the rear of your boat, you may end up having too little tongue weight.Remember that any extra weight will slow down your boat specially when it is in a strategic spot and the weight of the extra five hp may make a 20 horse more attractive speed wise. On a final note, by what I understand from your question ,you want to go fishing and not racing , so you might not care too much about the 2 or 3 mph difference if you go fishing.

Nice try. The only problem with your statement is that a president is supposed to be a statesman. The president is also the representative of the United States to the rest of the world. At this point he acts like a bad second hand car dealer. Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

Most brake off gear hanging on fish jaw will cause that fish to die. Add to that the damage caused by the barb when removing the barbed hook and you will see how much you increase fish survival when you remove the barbs.

When fishing with the grand kids and when fishing for relaxation I go barbless. During tournaments not yet. It does give fish a much better survival chance both with catch and release and break off.