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rolmops

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Everything posted by rolmops

  1. Prices did not go up 30%. And just imagine how much worse it would have been for me if my retirement savings would not have gone up 30%. I'm not complaining.
  2. My 409 went up by well over 30%
  3. It’s not yet here, but the rules on this website sort of prevent me from telling where it is supposed to come from.
  4. C’mon guys, don’t be stingy. Everyone who had a blue flag on their boat! You have to help the poor guy and his sons come up with the money. How else is New York going to get the dough?
  5. I also bought a Suzuki from online outboards for all the reasons you mentioned. Part of my calculation for doing this is also getting older and while not less agile just yet. I certainly will be a few years from now. At the ripe old age of 73 I do not want to waste my time fixing things when what I really want to do is floating and daydreaming on the water. The 9.9 I bought is top of the line with an extra long shaft and T&T. I love just looking at it, let alone motoring with it. It's pure unadulterated luxury. I did not even mention the 5 year warranty and the almost silence on the water when the engine runs. (Admittedly I am a bit deaf) I added a little servo and actuator hooked it into a trollmaster3 system and now I can be away from the wheel and steer and control speed everywhere in the boat with my wireless little gizmo hanging from my neck As for the 20 horse. It is the same block as the 9.9 and going that way may mean falling in the same trap of pushing the little motor too hard and creating the same trouble of early wear and tear,which you are dealing with now.
  6. This may sound weird, but may I suggest that the next block you buy is a 1970s or 80s. What happened is that OEM constantly tried to squeeze more horse power out of the same block size. In the late fiftees there was the 30 and 35 hp block. These were very sturdy solid blocks for their range. As time went on using the same basic block , they went to forty, fifty and in the end even 55 horse engines all based on the same size block. Obviously, the more you squeeze out of a block, the harder they work and the worse they wear. In my experience the late seventies and early eighties pre1985 and preVRO is where the best blocks are found. I still have 2 very good 1957 35 horse Seahorses that I never had to work on apart from regular maintenance. I think that they have well over 3000 hours each. I would choose not to hone but to go oversize. Honing might actually bring the compression down even more. Having a good machine shop do the work might cost quite a bit but it will get you a new block If you know how to rebuild a jeep in your driveway, you should not have any problems with a 2 stroke on the work bench in your garage. Until you have time to do such a rebuild you may want to run the engine on a 1-32 mix , it tends to bring the compression up just a little.
  7. I would start with decarbing the engine, then pour some steering fluid or better, magical mystery oil into the cylinders and let it sit overnight. This will loosen up sticky rings. Now let it run until it is warm and then do a compression test again It may well be that the compression has gone up quite a bit. If not, go ahead and do a complete rebuild with the help of a factory manual (not some Clymer or Seloc). Go oversize if you have to, or if you really want to, go perfect go for a resleeve.
  8. They are not really for sale anymore. Any halfway decent boat canvas maker can make those. But you should pay attention to the zipper on the top canvas to make sure that they use the same zipper teeth size on the new piece that you order.
  9. Is the bracket in any way supported on the trailer? The reason why I'm asking is all the weight. (The outboard on the bracket is probably around 300 pounds). Is it supported or is it floating in midair?
  10. If you look at the side window, you see that it is one piece. The 221 Islander has a 2 piece window. The front end of which you can open and close. Sorry, but that is a19 footer.
  11. I never thought about that little trick. Thanks!!
  12. They make the green goby because that color is more visible in the water. If it is natural representation you are after,then you would never use a goby spoon for trolling. Gobys usually lay on the bottom and every so often they push themselves up to go somewhere and then they sink again. They do not have airbladders so they cannot swim distances suspended like a trolling lure does. Goby spoons for jigging make a lot more sense.
  13. Just bear in mind, that the bottom condition of the hull plays a big role. another factor is overall weight of the boat. What works for mike may not work for you at all. What Mike did say about going to a place like pier prop is very valuable. The people that give you a test prop to run can save you a lot of money. Instead of spending money for a prop that does not fit the bill and then having to buy another one (very often there is no return on props even if only used for a few minutes). You may have to pay more than buying online, but you get the right one the first time around. I should know. Every time I step into my shed I see a thousand dollars of props that just did not fit the bill.
  14. I would start with checking the timing and make sure that it is properly set. That could easily bring up the rpm and save fuel. If it is only trolling you want you should go down considerably so you can troll slowly at a slightly higher rpm Three or four blade props have more to do with hole shot and little to do with trolling Your boat size would commonly have the 14 diameter X 19 pitch size prop, maybe 21 but that is less common. Every number you go up or down makes a difference of about 200 rpm, so if you go from 14x19 to 14 x16 you would bring up your rpm roughly 600 up. In your case from 3900 to 4500. That is.. according to calculations on paper, but boats do not know how to read so you should take that as an approximate specially since those calculations are based on maximum speed/ rpm when the boat is on plane. But still ,it would be your best rule of fist.
  15. Before you go up from 60 to 90, you should check the capacity that the boat specs will allow you to put on your boat. Too much weight or too much power may become very problematic in case you go beyond the coastguard ratings/specs for your your boat and will almost automatically void your insurance coverage in case of an accident on the water.
  16. Any old lawnmower battery hooked up to the plus and minus of your battery hookups with your perko in the right position will do the trick. You can also pull your car close enough to the boat so you can connect jumper cables to the plus and minus of your battery hookups and that should do the trick. As long as you provide power to the system it will work
  17. I like green
  18. If you have a good gps map on your rig ,it will show the the pipe and where it splits up. It is straight in front of the treatment plant. It is a great place to catch brown trout...
  19. Gambler is on the intake end not the outgoing. The treatment is very basic indeed. Lime was pumped in with the sewage. Just to make things a bit clearer. The sewer from Henrietta is a mixture of runoff that comes from the catch basins on the roads (not all of them) , ground water and raw sewer. It normally is treated at the Frank Van Lare treatment plant and then released. But the amount of runoff from all those catch basins just completely overwhelmed the sewer pipe lines. The level became so high that it started overflowing into the overflow system . That means that the overflow is actually quite diluted because of all the rainwater that is mixed in at this point. Still not good, but not as bad as it sounds at first
  20. that should have a pm. Now it is in the public domain and any fire on your property will be seen as susupicious.
  21. Dry gas usually is based on alcohol. It does what ethanol does. You should use drygas in 2 cases. First ,when you know that you have water in your tank and do not want it to freeze. That way you prevent small drops of ice to clog up your injectors/carburetors. Second, when you know there is water in the tank, dump the drygas in there so the water will get absorbed into the gasoline just before you use your vehicle If you had to use drygas because of one of these reasons , you should run your tank as low as you can without getting stuck then replace your or empty out your water/fuel separator and start with fresh clean fuel I once tilted my boat/trailer as steep as possible so all the water and gunk in the tank made its way to the fuel pickup. and pumped all this gunk out through a clear plastic hose into a large glass bottle I kept on pumping until only gasoline came out of the hose.
  22. You just pointed out the problem with these "controlled" hunts. The "hunters". Since when does the fact that one is a policeman or fireman for that matter, make one a good and responsible hunter? Or is this often a little adventure thrown to people as a moral booster?
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