Todd in NY

Thanks for posting this. I have that ducer, but I've never heard of that happening before. Contact Lowrance and see what they have to say about it.

We liked our 2160 a lot, but I wanted an aluminum boat with an outboard. I found a 22ft Crestliner Sabre, which fits us better as a fishing boat.

Welcome to the forum! I hope you can fix it without spending too much money on the repair.

Yep, sold it 4 years ago. The green colored "for sale" ads should be changed by the seller to a red "sold/closed" ad, which mine should show up as a red "sold/closed" ad. It's in the thread or topic title line.

Thanks for the report, congrats!

I always put the two size 24 batteries in my boat every spring, charge them with my two 25 watt solar panels that I mounted on my hardtop, then remove the batteries in the fall. I never realized that I didn't use heat shrink on my battery cables at the copper connectors. So today, I finally used heat shrink tubing on my four battery connectors. The absolute best heat shrink I have found is the Grote brand from Napa. This stuff has the best shrinkage and the most glue I've ever seen in heat shrink tubing and heat shrink connectors. Look at all the glue that is seeping out on the right side of the tubing, and the amount of shrinkage between the connector and the insulation

I'll see if I still have a copy of it on my laptop when I get home tonight. I can't upload a PDF into this forum, so send me your email in a PM.

I finished installing the wiring for the nav lights today. They are hooked up to the far right rocker switch I mounted the all around pole light on the front of the rear seat for storage I used some scrap aluminum diamond plate to make a side cover for the stainless steel box that I made to mount the pole light on I put the batteries in the boat, without the battery boxes, so I could test the electronics. Everything works as it should. I haven't installed the white and red LED lights yet. That might wait another month or so

I used stainless #10 screws to attach the stainless steel box to the left rear of the boat, then mounted the pole light base to it. I didn't have time to run the 16ga wire to the rocker switch yet I installed the mounting base for my Helix 10, and ran the 16ga wire to the power junction posts. I also installed a 2D sonar transducer to my trolling motor. I ran the ducer cable through the coiled trolling motor cord, then left the ducer cable loose to see if it gets twisted during use

Over the past 2 weeks I've managed to make a little more progress. I decided to simplify my battery connections by running a 12ga wire from my size 24 battery to a pair of power junction posts under the composite deck boards. The power junction posts will then supply power through 16ga wire to each of the two fish finders, the trolling motor heading sensor, and the 3-gang rocker switch panel. My size 29 battery will only have the trolling motor hooked up to it I made a 3-sided box out of extra composite deck boards to cover the front and sides of the rocker switch panel. I left the back open for the switch, and the bottom open for air flow. It's mounted under the right side of the composite deck boards. It's not wired yet, but one switch will control my navigation lights, one switch will control 2 white LED lights, and the last switch will control 2 red LED lights I got the red and green LED nav lights mounted, but running the wiring to the switch isn't done yet I had to fabricate a 3-sided box to mount my all-around pole light to, so I used some scrap stainless steel I had laying around. It was about 2ft long and was sort of L-shaped. I cut some relief cuts in the "top" so I could bend it with a crescent wrench in my bench vise. Then finish the bends with my dead blow hammer. No matter how I modify or rotate my next pictures, they appear upside down... I used a hacksaw for the first 2 relief cuts, then I switched over to my jigsaw

Thanks for the report and the pics MJP!

That's some good eatin' right there That's a big laker!

Every time I go fishing early in the morning, when the fog is really thick, I get some heavy condensation or fog on the inside of my windshield. I put a fan in my previous boat, and it helped a lot. So I finally picked up a fan for this boat. It's a 6" oscillating fan, and I didn't want to block my vision, so I mounted it behind my Helix 10 I chose to not hardwire this fan, and left the 12v adapter plug on it.

Today I installed an LED flood light on my bow rail. It's only 5" wide, but it puts out an advertised 26,400 lumens of 6000k cool white light. It comes as a two pack, but I only used one light. They are water proof (IP68), dust proof and shock proof. I also bought a separate rail mount for it. Here it is before I trimmed the zip ties. I wanted it mounted just forward of the rail so that there is no glare or reflection from the light on the rail I wired it into my rocker switch panel with 16 ga wire and heat shrink connectors And now for the brightness test. There is a utility light on behind the boat with a sort of orange glow Now with the flood light on This light will be useful when I'm docking at night. It shines the light in a 200 degree beam. It was well worth the $35.88 for the pair of lights.

I have a Cobra handheld that I use as a backup radio in my Crestliner Sabre. It's also used as my only radio on my small 16ft boat. As mentioned above, I think the mounted radios put out roughly 5 times the power of a handheld.

l wonder how long it will take the IJC to drop the lake 5 cm.