Knotlost

I can say that I bought a hummingbird 788 and its OK, not great, but OK. I had to get rid of the transducer and upgrade to the quad and I expected allot but it not really all that. Its not bad but not as good as the hype they give it on there we. I have a Paraná and its a 99$ finder and out side of the color its almost as good. the gps works real good and is nice but I think I'm going to spend the $ on the raymarine this year for a radar and they are coming out with some kind of wiz bang fish finder in the next year or two and I will look into that one when it comes along.

how are the fish finders in comparison?

Dose any one know how the new Lowrance is now that they have been bought up, and how do they compare with the raymarine C products? How do the fish finders compare between the two?

The 22 is much bigger than 3 feet, kinda. It has much higher freeboard, and thats a big deal when it kicks up. I have had every size starcraft from 12, 14, 16, 19, 22, and now im on the best one and thats a 26! You will never regret the extra room of the 22.

Im thinking about one, but dont have much time on different brands or types. Whats the concencous? Digital or standard? How about the raymarine brand? Thanks..

I just bought a Control and found it on line for 185$ less and they matched that price as well. So they are very reliable with this.

No you can not weld close to anything that will contaminate the weld, there is not a "inch" rule, its simply your weld has to be impecably clean for good aluminum welding. When you get close to any junk on the metal your going to loose your flow.

These can be easily fixed, if you don't try to do it cheap. You can buy heavy rivets, that are closed water tight rivets that you put in using the big rivet gun, It looks like a big pair of bolt cutters. Some of these rivets have a steel anvil so they are strong enough to pull the rivet, that's not a big deal as that is inside the rivet and is not against the boat or any other rivet and would take about 15 to 20 years to cause meaningful problems, and then you can replace it in about 70 seconds if and when it dose. With these rivets you do want to use some good marine caulk and make sure the pieces are tight before you squeeze the rivet. The strength of these rivets are all rated so you can get what ever you feel is needed, but for a patch that's stronger than the surrounding it dose not have to be that heavy, look up the numbers. McMasters has lots of info. In the day we live now you don't have to make patches with blind rivets, they are better only if they are done perfectly. A good pop rivet in the right size is way better than a poorly done blind rivet. I have seen some fishing boats that are pop riveted with beer cans and roofing tin over big holes, makes you shake your head and laugh, but I also have to admit they hold up and don't leak! Now I would not have done that but many people have with success. Its amazing what will work with aluminum, I do all mine by welding since I can and do weld aluminum but that's not always possible or needed with some problems. They do not use a sealer for welding, as it would melt and burn, and contaminate the weld, they may have applied some sealer after it was welded, but not before. You would use sealer if your riveting. If its welded you have to be able to get both sides clean and keep them clean during welding or else your better off riveting it.

I didn't like it. Don't let your children listen to it. What did the cursing and swearing do but give it low class. It could have been good, but since when dose vulgarity add anything good to anything. No excuses, sportsman are suppose to be class acts. By the way thats not my opinion, thats our heritage.

Another + here for the Traxtrek systems...

I myself was worried about the ezsteer coming apart, but after 2 years of heavy use I have never had an issue. I don't know whats wrong with Jimski2, no doubt is not holding together, but I would have to say there is something wrong with it. I don't think its even possible for mine to come apart without actually taking it apart, and I have no fears of losing parts. Mine took a hard pounding last year that bent up the kicker mount and twisted the motor more than 5 inches sideways and the brackets were still holding like a rock. Mine is only 2 years old, so maybe they are using heavier fittings that whats on his. The one I have is tough to take apart when on the trailer. The key to these working good (ease of use) is putting enough space between the motor and the kicker, if its to close then you have problems. That said next year I may loose 2 so, I know things can change... but so far its good.

Yes I do alternates the electric horns are so bad, I have a whistle and a canned air horn. I have taken them apart to clean them (about 4 now) and they never work even after, and I'm pretty good with mechanics, and I do electrical work so I'm not a novice, these things just seem to be cursed! They need to make one that has a compartment built in for puting a dozen or so of mothballs in it to keep the bugs out. Every year the mud wasps make a nest in my bilge lines, and thats a bugger to get out. I have a big train air horn, and have been thinking.... Better not.

Not sure if is just me or if all the boat horns im buying are just junk, but I can not seem to find a horn that lasts more than a couple of years and they gradualy turn lame as thay go. What have you guys found that stays loud and last more than a couple of years. I dont like haveing to change one every few years, they are just a pain in the neck.

The 9.9 is plenty big works great, its going to charge your batteries fine as well. The one thing you have to figure out, and now is the time to do it, is your steering. If you do some research call the manufacture of the ez steer, he will tell you what you need for information on how to make it work the best it can or even if it cant. But since you have just started you should be able to modify your swim platform how ever you need to (no swim platform is worth a good kicker set up in my opinion, I would rather loose the whole platform before not having a kicker). I'm certain if you plan it right from the start it will go easy, if you presidentially cob it up, it will be a headache for years to come.

I would say a good quality oil is enough, Lucas or full synthetic. I like using the amsoil products, with them there is no need for anything extra.

It realy is easy to read from quite some distance, once you get used to it and how it works you, a glance once in a while is all you need. When your trying to get things right your normaly in the drivers seat, at least I am so thats where mine is.

I think im going to pop on a Raymarine X5 for my boat, and have been looking just a bit, any advice on where to buy?

Wow not sure how I would like that..... To much of an emagination going on in my head...

Thats a tough one, it would be great if you can weld aluminum, thats what I do. There are some hard work solutions for you, one would be to build your hard top and use rivets, they hold extremely well if you place a couple in each joint. then sheet it with sheet aluminum as well. Once it looks like you want it to, then talk to a welder. Invest in a HD rivet gun, and use the stout rivets. The sheet metal would go on after all the welding, and rivets work very well when you use quality heavy duty rivets. I know if someone brought something to me, and all I had to do was weld it up (you should offer to stay and help clean the joints) it would not be bad work at all. It would be a half day affair so long as you did a good job getting everything the way you want it before showing up to the welder. The fabrication time is the killer as far as custom cost, so if you do that... I made several this way and the builder was always happy

fish hawk is great, and it dose not take much to learn how to use it, its very simple. Now using the info thats a differnt matter altogether. I have not gotten that figured out yet.

Simple green is great, and I found another one that works fantastic as well its call Crud Cutter, got it at Lowes. Stuff is amazing to, but not sure aobout the biodegradable stuff on that one, it may be almost everything is today.

Wow, I guess I'm looking for problems? I always add the marine stabil in the fuel and give a little extra dose on the last tank, and make sure its been run into the motor. Then I drain the block etc, pour antifreeze in though it and let that drain out as well and leave it till spring. And I do nothing with the gas system. In the spring I put the cooling system back to gether, hook up the muffs and start it, I always wait till I have run it for 15 to 20 Min's before changing the gas/water separator filter in case there is water in the tank as I want it in the old filter and not the bran new one I'm about to put on. So far for the last 15 years its starts fast at least I think so, normally in 5 seconds. But I might add I always use higher octane gas in the boat, never the low octane, maybe that helps, and I always use synthetic oil in the motor. Of course I do lead a very blessed life

Its very easy to do a pressure check and figure out where its leaking, if its simple, then dont sweat it. After pressure testing it will already be emptied of oil, after the "leak" is fixed it will be fine, if you concerned just change the oil in 10 hrs of use or less.

It truly was a good year, to get a Elite pure 70# bow compleat with elite quiver! Looking forward to being able to find them arrows under the snow!

Thats hilarious, Chowder you could have been a wealthy man if you only video your friends...