Knotlost

Killem all, misrable creatures. The hybreds are getting bigger all the time. Good Job!

I would have taken it for a few reasons, mainly that the survival rate is extrodinary low for them, so you should starve the coyotes and put it in your own freezer.

On a recommendation of a fellow LOU member I went and tried out a Elite hunter bow about 3 months ago. I have an older Bear bow, that’s been fine for me without any real problems and it shoots nice, but then when I shot that Elite bow it ruined me. Once I saw the warantee I was impressed compared to the other companys warrantees. So I started to try bows everywhere I could, finally just going into stores and asking only to see the best bows they had regardless of price, becasue nothing was even in the same league. I was shocked at what I found and that is how poor everything else was that I compared. I tried a 2 day old from Bowtec 350 destroyer to the Mathews (cant remember the model but one of the popular ones) and they didn't come close to the smoothness in my opinion to the Elite. So I found a dealer that had both the Pure and the Hunter models to test and found that I like the Pure much better, but both were amazing compared to what I had been trying out. By the way, if you buy one they come with a hat and a set of alen wrenches dont let the dealer charge you for them as well. So be very careful when trying one of these out as it may ruin your present bow. And it cost me a diamond ring for the wife as well...... PK

I cast my vote as well for the Yamaha 9.9, I put a bran new one on in the spring last year, and its great! Wow the gas savings is huge! I now have it on a 26 foot starcraft and it will move it 3.5 mph opend up but trolls at 2.5 at very low rpm, and its the high thrust model. I got the troll master, and I would add its all you need the more expencive one isn't needed this one is perfect so save some coin. I did get the power tilt and trim and its worth it.

Here are a few things that will help you a great deal in getting started if you have not yet. The powder Black horn 209 is great, it cleans up and shoots similar to smokeless but you use it like black powder in in-line 209 guns. You clean it with hoppes only after your done shooting for the day. My suggestion after looking around is find a Knight Disk extreme rifle, new or used, they are like a tank, Knight is in business again so you could buy a new one, but used (barley) ones go for around $125 on gun broker and they have green mount barrels, the only one that really compares is the TC, and they will be 4x the money but a great gun. Check the primer hole like the previous posted listed that its clean use a cutting torch cleaning wires to do this, and you can measure the size of the hole with these as well. Use barns bullets, the knight likes heaver bullets mine likes the 395 grain but many shoot the 350s good as well, use Federal 209 primers they are on the hot side of normal primers, don't use any special muzzle loader primers though they through everything else off. If you get hang fires call Knight there gun smith will tell you what size your flash hole needs to be to light the black horn 209 every time, and you can measurer it and get it drilled if its on the small side. Start with 110 grains measured and you will most assuredly be shooting less than 2 inch groups with no more work than that. I'm shooting with that load 1/2 groups at 100 and 7 inches groups at 200 yards with it. PK

I went to speed talk and didn't find any pages of camshaft and lifter failures? Can you give locations? In the cases that you mentioned, how would you know if it was the oil? It certainly could have been other causes, and it would seem that oil would have a greater impact on the journal bearing than camshaft and lifters? I’m not an expert and I'm not saying your wrong but pointing the finger at oil is just to simplistic in my opinion, especially when you see shear test, load test and all the other test they do in order to compare today’s oils of those used 10 years ago, they all surpass them buy a substantial amount, and that can not be dismissed, its science that’s repeatable. I would sooner question the enginering design of some of the motors today, when thin parts, small surfaces, rushed heat treating process, junk case hardend cast, where forged used to be the standard, and that can cause failures you can not detect with the naked eye, but would at first appear to be an oil problem. How about parts made by the highest bidder in China? You need a brinell tester and a microscope with a trained eye to detect these failings. I belive this because there are some well built motors that run great and run for a long long time with zerro problems, regardless of the oil, and if there was poision in the soup everyone would be sick. These motors are high quality though out but again manufactures today change methods and supplyers almost monthly and you can not rely on the fact that last year they made a good motor that this year they will. AT least this is my opinion.

I’m curious dose anyone know of a motor that has failed in the last 10 years due to oil? I say that because honestly I know of none that has failed due to oil, but lots of other reasons. It seems to me that better quality (not cheap no name) oil is of such good quality these days that none can be held responsible for motor failure. Maybe im wrong but lots of what people say can not be proven, for example a spun bearing due to cooling failure not oil is sometimes tough to be honest about if your the guy who put the pump together wrong, just blame the oil (example). I run my motors way past what most will with synthetics and don’t have problems but I also know what’s going on with my motor and do have my oil tested by a lab once in a while so I don’t trust "magic" to know what’s good and what’s not. You can know exactly what your motors are doing and what in the motor is wearing with these tests. But even then you can’t put common sense aside.

where do you look at them? Im in Fulton.

you still have them PM sent

Yes I use one, I was the first in our hunting group to get one, now 4 others in our group have one, I also bought one for my wife. The all run great and shoot great, it patterns better with heavy loads better than any other gun I have tested. Hands down the nicest shot gun on the market that I'm aware of, and yes I have shot the Besmellies (my buddy has one) and they are OK but jamb more often then the sx3. Funny story; We were hunting snows in Missouri and this guy comes walking out to the field carrying 2 guns. I'm thinking thats curious so I ask, and he replies "I shoot a SBE2 and it jambs so much I bring a back up Mossberg" I laughed so hard I hurt, as my buddy drops his head and wishes the guy would just shut up! But I do think the guy was goofy, they are not that bad just not as good as the sx3. Now I have shot with many guns and many are nice and OK, but this one has it all. It runs like a sports car, I have shot many 25 in trap with it during league shooting. I don't shoot just a little I'm normally pounding 2 to 3 cases of 3.5 super mags thought it every year, and then i shoot probably 4 to 8 cases of trap loads a year through it. It a great gun, others are OK, but this one is really nice, guys always like the gun they own, but then once and a while you come across one that really stands out and this is one that dose. It runs heavy goose loads and it also runs 1 oz trap loads fine. It dose get dirty after about 300 rounds though so you do have to clean it once in a while...

Kooter thats the funniest post I have read in a long time, either laugh when its over or become bitter right? I to had a troubled year but am in great shape now, and if it were not due to having a Kicker motor would have been stranded 2x myself. Its keeps you on the right side of crazy when you laugh when its over.... PK

Your out drive gears and bearings will be about spent, even if the motors are great, go to sterndrive engineering price out what 2 of the bran new out drives will cost and then build that into the price. If the motors are good (compression checks out right) then your still looking at how old are the exahust systems they will be close to shot, but im betting they were replace at least 1x already so find out how old if they are origionals then you better figure them in as well... O and you will certianly want to replace the couplers at the back of the motor (this requires pulling the motor) so figure that in as well.... PK

Not sure you will be able to find one but i have a 26 foot starcraft with a 260 hp merc! I love this thing, I built a hard top on it and its awesome! I found out about it from some one on this site posted it was for sale.

You really want to think about changing the size of tires on your boat trailer. The ideal boat trailer tire is a short as possible! You will have a bear of a time loading your boat if you raise it up with higher tires, not a little harder but it will be a lot of sweating and cursing. Your axle may have weakened but make it stronger but not bigger, I would replace what is there with almost the same exact thing with new steel a heaver gage, it will make a huge difference but not change the hight of the trailer. I worked in trailer industry for many years and mobile home axles are great if you know how to put them on (they have to be straightened by hand each time) and have to be checked allot! You really don't need heavy duties but high quality, as the boat needs to stay low, you watch the guys that struggle with trailering and loading, they often have replaced the "expensive" trailer tires with what cheap at wall mart car tire and they raise the boat 1.2 to 2 inches and it changes the way the boat rides in wind and loads at the boat ramp. Spindles welded to a c channel is as strong as any axle there is by the way, there are millions of them out there and they all work great when done right. Yours may have been weakened by rust or they just used bad steel or to thin of c channel. Just my thoughts for you to conceder.. PK

yes the garmin 276 c is the one you want. Mine is an older one, but they do make a "new verison" model of the same one.

Cant do it, the ice pounds everything flat even at 45 feet deep. I know of several wrecks (IM a diver) and the Ice will build up in a storm and then pound down that deep believe it or not. It splits and hammers steel hulls flat at 40 feet deep, this is one reason there isn't any.

I have never fished a tournament so what dose shaking the fish have to do with cheating?

You should have a safty cable or chain to hold the bow not just rely on the winch. Go to lows and get some of the plastic coated cable, 2 cable clamps per connection (aways double them) and the proper hook to snap on to the bow eye. Mesure befor hand so the cable will go through a hard poing on the trailer that will not let loose and reach the eye, and get the cable cut the right size at lows unless you have a cut off grinder as cable is not user freindly with any type of saw. This will cost you less then $10 and will hold the boat down even if your winch lets loose. I make mine about 6 inchs loose so its easy to hook up but short enough so it will still hold it. With winches the bigger the better as it just makes loading easy. The winches are never meant to be used as safy devices. Hope this helps.

Remanufacture complete motor GM straight 6 cylinder 160 hp and outdrive in 2006 with 160 hrs = 8000 miles of use on motor and outdrive (5K$ invested). (alt, water pump, starter, etc new) New boots, exhaust manifold, HDI distrib, new drive shaft, universal joints, thrust bearing, carpet in cutty. Heavy duty 3/4 treated plywood flooring and motor cover for gearing up. Total boat rebuild from floor stringer rivets, new 3 inch solid treated plywood stern replacement in 2006. Cruise speed loaded full of gear, is fast at 20 to 25 (gps). In floor storage/fish well with drain. It has a mount (super heavy duty) for a Kicker motor built into swim platform. Heavy welded bench for gearing up, set up for dual battery, dual gas tank one is new plastic tank (20gal) replaced in 2006 the other (15 gal) was perfect (steel), painted and reinstalled. Welded heavy aluminum custom dive platform with dive latter and handrails for easy exit and entry into boat with kicker motor mount. This ladder is great very strong and rungs are spaced right. Fuel and water separator, automatic bilge and extra switched bilge pump. This boat has all the nice things. Even comes with Anntenna. Just had the shifting cable replaced. This boat is easy to trailer, (2 inch ball) pulls fine with small truck and realy works great for a dive boat, if you need some numbers for wrecks to dive on, I will provide numbers upon payment of the asking price of the boat. 1984 EZ load Galvanized trailer with guide loaders in 9 of 10 shape, and spare tire . Set up for electric winch comes with manual winch. Full camper canvas new in 2006 all in nice shape. Canvas cost over 1200$ 2 can sleep in the cutty and its very comfortable to spend the night in. This boat has had 5 tec divers, (with scooters, and doubles) for dives in the Saint Lawrence river and is very roomy with as many recreational divers. Needs batterys. http://www.hotshotbullets.com/ebaystuff/diveboat.htm For more pictures.

I know exactly what your referring to, I had a new unit, and it too lost bottom, and would do it all the time. The GPS worked fine (700 series) all the time, but the sounder wouldn't work, I sent it in and they reflashed the CMOS (reprogrammed the brain for you fish heads). I got it back and it only worked a little while so they sent me a new transducer, that seem to fix it for good. It apparently has something to do with the transducer. I was a pain but I don't care who you buy from there are many things that can go wrong with any brand you buy. I guess I don't consider a transducer problem as a big deal in life with all the real bad things that can happen, its just a inconvenience. Mine is now working very well and I still think its a great unit with all that it has and dose. I took the transducer they sent me and upgraded it to the 4 beam to give me a wider view and real like that as well.

I had a very simluar issue, believe it or not a huge bumble bee got into the tank and was blocking the intake. I would examin the hoses, then the check valve at the tank like an early poster stated, then you need to see if something got in the tank, a vacumed filter is not to be ignored...

If the boat is in good shape, (it would really need to be bad) it will be fine, unless the boat will not slide on the bunks it has, most bunk material is made to be slippery when wet, or you replace it with a plastic that dose slide. It really should be simple and easy to do with a little practice, but the fact is the more you have to float the boat the harder it is to get it on the trailer right. I like trailers with rolers, and thats all I would use becasue of some of the problems your having, but you could make it work by going through these few things. Have you made sure the tires are not to big?

First make sure you have the right size trailer tires on the trailer. Some guys put small car tires on and that raised the trailer up makes loading hard, second before you do all the other stuff (do put the guides on it though) get a stronger and bigger winch, thats the cheapest way to fix the problem. I have a 9000 # electric, and that fixes most problems.

I bought my kicker with a tiller handle and put a protroll on it, and am very glad, the control is much better than can be obtained with the factory controls.

BIG JON # PM00371 DUAL MANUAL PLANER RIGGER, 2PC, 72" MAST, ANODIZED FINISH, 8" MANUAL REELS W/ADJ DISC CLUTCH, 150' OF 135LB TEST TOW PER REEL. This is bran new it was part of a lot of fishing gear I bought and I already have one thats only a year old so I'm selling this one. It will come with a set of big planer boards, they are dual boards and are like the homemade boards but are made very very well, but they have been used they are not new. The design of these dual boards is very common so I'm not sure if they are home made or professional, but they are very well made. I made my set and these are very almost identical, and mine work crazy good, so these planer boards are not junk they will work great. So there you have it a complete planer board set at a good price. Fulton NY email me at [email protected]