Knotlost

Hey look at the bright side, the new cables out now are great! The slide like oiled glass so you have that to look forward to!

First before you do anything access the water content of the existing fiberglass. You need to be brutaly honest here. With a glass boat of that age, normaly they absorb water, once that happens then you cannot stop the impending destruction without drying it out, and thats almost impossable. If its just a cheap im going to fix it any way, the best solution is to sand down to the glass and use an epoxy resin and cloth and make the tradition repairs. Epoxy will over come most problems with "sticking" . Sand to glass and whipe it down with alcohol or acitone and then use epoxy. Urathane resins will not work anywhere as reliable on this project. Do not use car urathane clear coat! It will come off in sheets if you do! Go and buy the paint (its a one part urathane) made for boat hulls below the water line. You cannot cut the corners and come away unscathed. I know a guy who repainted a jet ski at an auto body shop, and the first time out the whole clear coat came right off in a sheet! It works above the deck but not submerged, it needs to dry off occationaly and can not be left under water for hours at a time. You can use the role and tip method of painting these paints and it will look very professional and you will save alot of money in paint as it will all go on the hull. US composits can help with the "stuff" and you can talk to there tec guy he is a real expert on these things.

xaclty disconect to narrow it down, there are no short cuts unless parts fall out on the floor then thats a pretty good clue.

When I bought mine two things made a big difference, the biggest one is the charging part. The 9.9 Yamaha charges at about 6 amps while your trolling this alows you to use power with out worrying about your batterys. Down the road you may get some things like sounders, temp and speed electronics , electric down riggers, DC cooler, or refrige, and the list goes on and on. Its great to have the DC power, and the other was the 9.9 is by far the most common, so parts and design have really been honed in. The older 8 are the same motors as well and have been around a long time, but they have gotten them down so they dont have much trouble and they just plain work good.

here is a few of the Aluminum hard top I built with sliding glass windows..

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I am converting my T9.9 GPXH 6AVK X 1007709 F Manufacture date 2-10; from a tiller to a remote, I have all the parts (I believe) and am pretty will finished with no problems, but I can not figure out how to hook up the electric choke linkage. I'm totalaly stumped here. I know the solenoid attaches to the back of the motor on the intake manifold, but it looks like the linkage hooks to the inside of the carb, and I can not figure out how. If you have the remote control version of this kicker you may be able to help me if you could just send me some pictures of the linkage from the solenoid to the carburetor.. Can some one shoot me a picture of what it looks like or how its suppose to be? Or let me know if your going to be up in Writes in Oswego and I will come and look at the dumb thing myself... thanks

There are a million problems with some of the methods that people use, do your self a favor and learn about the subitys of fibergass and resin. Call the people at US Composits and tell him what your thinking, he will give you the tec reasons it will work or not. They have great products for a very reasonable price, you can get the cheap resins or the higher quality but at least you will understand what you need to do so it will last.

I need an ajustable pole holder to mount on a vertical handrall (1") where the attachement point is at the bottom of the poleholder. In order to get the right angles the attachment point cannot be in the middle as most are or even 3/4 of the way down, but needs to be at the bottom. The hand rail is close to the side of the boat so there is no room for it to rotate if its any higher. The only one I can find is the Traxstech type and they are not being offered yet as they are being redesined. I would like SS or a nice aluminum if possible. Are there any others that you know of?

The 9.9 Yamaha is great, not much or any advantage of a smaller one. The fact that the 9 charges and keeps the battery's up is a big plus. The gearing of the kickers goes a long way to eliminate the need for HP tweaks. They also use a totally different prop made for pushing heavy things slow, but will not push anything very fast.

They are a cool fish, I have seen quite a few while diving. They stay fairly close to one place and you find them near the same place quite a bit. There is a big one (7') out side of Oswego. Totally harmless and not real spooky of divers, bottom feeders. It's amazing they at one time dominated the waters.

You should look at the brand Insta Trim Boat Levelers. I have had a set for years and they are great, they work forever and are very reasonably priced. They are very simply designed and install easy.

I love the Saltist, I have tryed several, and they are my go to reel. I would like to have all my reels work as good, the higher gear ratio is priceless for wire in my opinion. I would never by a reel again for wire thats not a high speed regardless of make. If you fish much and reel that wire in much then the high speed becomes even better. I have a Tekota but its not high speed so I dont like it on the wire, I have it on copper and would not do it again. Othere than that its a nice reel but I fish alot, and I like running on New York time (fast) when it comes to pulling lines in.

SOLD... I have two of the starfire (I think they are eagle claw) dipsy diver rods in good shape. I bought them new and used them 1/2 the season the first year and last year, they are in good shape just some normal wear. They are 10' long with the twill tip for wire and im asking $40 for both I live close to oswego for pick up or I could mail them buyer pays shipping.

Thats the name I couldn't remember the exact name but that it.

It depends on why the "hotter plug" is being recommended. If your having trouble loading up because of long hrs of trolling, then its very reasonable. But I got some advice that has been great. I was told by a couple of guys that work on boats for a living, and they build the big water cigarette boats, and have done very well at racing them as well, to get the bosh 2 if I'm remembering it right. They are the bosh plug at wall mart that have the two electrodes over the post in the plug. They do make a "3" but they are not needed. They make them generically so you pick the one that is the right length and thread size. I have since used them and they are great, no loading ever, and they are not "hot" like going to a hotter normal plug, they just don't ever load up and fire reliable.

You have been given allot of good advice, but just start with knowing what your Red line is of your motor, and make sure your tack is accurate. they can be really off, many are not real accurate, but you need to know within 200 rpm, 50 is better. With the prop and the load that your going to consider "normal", you should be (in calm water no wind) able to just get it to the red line. It should not happen fast, and you should not be able to go over it. Your Wide open Throttle is (depending on motor) 500 to 700 RPM slower, and your cruising speed is factored by Plane, RPM, and speed. Thats normally another 500 to 1200 rpm lower than your WOT, but you figure that out after your prop-ed right. If you can not reach red-line, your over propped, if you get to red-line to fast or can go past red-line easy your under propped. Get this right first, then work on the plane and trim. Other wise you will not be doing it right. I do think you have plenty of motor for your boat, if its lower unit is geared correctly. You can check that if its suspect. I bought a used boat that the owner put what ever lower unit on it he could find to sell it and it was geared wrong, so it can happen.

I have one and like it well enough but I did get the better transducer upgrade as they had some problems with the basic one. I got mine from a store on line.

The 9.9 are great when they are geared and prop-ed for trolling. But you have to make sure you get the one made to be a kicker, and if you set it up with one of the bars (cant remember who make them, but they are very common) that go from the out drive to the kicker then you use both as a rudder and it gives you better turning. Power isn't really an issue, as pushing a 26 foot starcraft with a hardtop in hardly 10% throttle. And because of the gearing and proping they are made to move heavy things slow very weill. I use the pro-troll, and it has a button that will take it up to full throttle when you push it, and sometimes you need to bump that to make it come around in the wind, then let off and right back to the right speed, so thats very handy. The gas sipping of the 9.9 is awesome like 3 to 4 hrs on a gal of gas, so thats massive to consider.

I put the new one on late last summer, its great. They work very well, they are strong and make fishing very relaxing. I got the upgraded computer head, I love it as its color and has a few nice features, as well as the newer communication system. I have a 26 foot starcraft, cable over hydraulic.

I read the "UP to the Gills" and saw no such statement, can you point to the location?

How much common sense would it take for the people testing fish to say "lets do a test that will realistically determine how much is actually being eaten by people". I'm talking about not testing bones, organs, skin, just clean well prepared meat with the veins and fat properly removed. The test i have read about cant possibly be accurate for the guy eating fish. The idea they mix it and separate it would only fool the most ignorant of readers. The second the fats and organs are mixed with meat the test is contaminated and worthless. It seems to me that would be a nature test to make along with the other testing for real world results, by a group supposedly concerned with the effects of pollution. I understand it would not directly reflect on the heath of the lake, granted, but it would never the less be a very important test. If these types of tests have never been done, then I question the the general intelligence of those running the programs. Now no where do I ever find a test like that posted, ever! I for one do not believe they have never been done, but have been done and the results just not posted. Why would they not... 1. Perform that test. 2. Post that test results. I can think of many answers but they all come back to the same motivation, job security and fear of loosing support on the testers behalf. I hope im wrong and the test are out there, but I sure would like to see them.

In my opinion then best rig is the diawa heartland rods, (the plainer board rods have bigger eyes on them allowing you to reel up the longer leaders needed for browns, the swivel goes through the eye very easy). They make a pole for each type of fishing such as planer board, downrigger, dipsy..And its hard to beat the saltiest reel, one fantastic reel. eventually all my salmon reels will be changed over. They are worth the money, I wish I had started with them. I use 25# big game for salmon with 20 Floro leader.. For browns I use 10# with 10#Floro. 8# if I just can't get them on the 10. If you need some prices PM me I will see about getting you some prices, I do sell some fishing gear, as my distributor dose carry it.

We sure know its not hurting the Comerants that eat them, you would excpect it to bother there eggs if it had any effect at all.....

Yes it works, and the diawa heartland rods are great. The only think I like better for wire is a reel with a higher gear ratio, boy its a chore reeling it in, but you make a big jump in price for the higher gear ratios for wire. I started out that way and when i upgraded I bought new reals for my wire and then used the 47s for my mono rods.