Knotlost

Its funny to read all those posts, and all that work and one fart ruins it all... The activated carbon is a joke, the science isn't there, carbon loads, and once its loaded it gives off as much as it absorbs. That's the facts folks and nothing will change that, the amount of AC in the fabric is very little and will load very quickly, once loaded it has to be "removed" and that's not an easy task to do right. I would bet the AC in those fabrics will load in 30 minutes or less 50% of the time. Fact is you will not fool a smart buck if he crosses your sent in any form, you have to hunt the wind, or hope he makes a mistake. One of the best deer hunters in the world taught me that you will never shoot a careful buck, only those making a mistake. Im all for doing whats reasonable, keep everything clean including yourself but then you have to be concerned with the wind it will always give you away, unless the deer are used to smelling people, and in some cases they are. I am refering to deer in the deep woods where I hunt, they are never fooled by anyone with any type of sent control.

Yes its easy to install, has a low profile, and simply works by controlling your steering wheel. I have hydraulic when my main motor is running and when im just using my kicker its cable, and it works perfect regardless of what im running.

I just (new this year) got the raymarine spx5 and its awsome. Down side is none, so far.

Fishing Report Your Name / Boat Name:Knot lost ============== TRIP OVERVIEW ============== Date(s): Time on Water:6 Weather/Temp: Wind Speed/Direction: Waves: Surface Temp: Location: LAT/LONG (GPS Cords): =============== FISHING RESULTS =============== Total Hits: 1 Total Boated: 1 Species Breakdown: coho Hard day big water only one on a silver j plug on copper at 120 feet out over 110 fow. Hot Lure: Trolling Speed: Down Speed: Boat Depth: Lure Depth: ==================== SUMMARY & FURTHER DETAILS ====================

What is a red board ? Thanks

I can tell you that after fishing hard for a few years, I'm changing all my rods over to the Heartland specialty series rods. They make a planer/walleye pole that's perfect for browns as it has eyes that are bigger than most poles allowing you to "reel" in your swivel right to the reel, and many rods have eyes to small. There down rigger rods are great and have larger eyes as well, If you look at there rod for dipsys its great in my opinion as its a bit stiffer in the top than most giving you great control and feel. My biggest complant is the small eyes on the poles and I like to run longer leaders and get the swivels down to the reel. Reels are exactly what you pay for, there are not magic bullets here. I like the Daiwa saltiest high speed, I should say I love them, but they cost more. The sea-line is about the cheapest you should go, any cheaper and you will be posting on craigslist with that stuff for sale. I can not attest to many other brands, I only own 1 Okuma, it seems fine, although unremarkable, they Penn's I have are older and getting long in the tooth so its not a fair to compare them with a new reel. I did just get a Shimono and that's nice but lower speed.

The best solution will be for you together another transducer. Don't get an exact replacement though get the 4 cone ducer. It's much better. [ Post made via iPhone ]

I have welded lots of aluminum, and it works perfect if done right. There is some validity in what the other posters have said in regards to what heat dose but not enough in boat welding to be regarded as valid for what you are talking about. Your patch is not the same as welding a 10 foot stress crack in a keel. They weld aircraft all the time, so think of that if some one wants to ride that horse to long. Thin aluminum welds fine until you get to thin (if that make any since) so long as your not welding real heavy or real light stuff and you use the right wire it will out live you and your kids. Like the one poster said though either rivet or weld no real use in doing both, rivets would work fine as well. If a hull is riveted it should be riveted to be repaired unless the damage is in the "field" then that aria can be welded and the combining of the two isn't bad. I use a softer wire for boats as it gives and bends allot without breaking, it has never failed - ever. I have made dive platforms to hold divers weighing in at over #500 each and have patched the bottom of hulls, so strength is not the issue but structure. But to qualify that I don't weld everything people want me to either. Patching that type of damage is simple and safe. Making it pretty is a matter of set up and wind control, as much of the boat welding I do is outside and hard to keep the wind off the weld and sometimes can make for ugly welds. I don't fool around I use a spool gun and MiG weld it. PM and I will happy to talk to you. PK

Islolate that one motor and see if it dose the same thing. Then start your trouble shooting but you always start by isolating the bad motor first, otherwise it can be a dog chasin tail type of work. If it works fine as a single then it was something in the electrical or fuel with the other motor.

Thats funny in a pound your head type of way...

You need to find out what it should draw as amps before using a bigger fuse. You can have a bad fire, or melt things if your motor is shorting. Call the manufacture and find out fuse rating, your wire may be to thin as well. Dont just stick in a bigger fuse otherwise you may as well just use a piece of wire or cut the fuse right out its not doing what its suppose to.

Go to Iboats and get your custom boat lettering. It's cheap, looks perfect, easy to install and fast. That's been my experience any way

Buckets can beat up your boat, I would just get some bags most places have them, and they are not that expensive.

Yes you can mount a kicker fairly easy, so don't give up on that idea. I have a 350 but don't troll with it unless it's to hard to control the boat with the kicker, as the 9.9 gets about 3 to 4 hrs of trolling on one gallon. The 350 may use 1.5 an hr at the most but honestly I have never figured out the gph on the big one trolling.

Start by going to the hose where the water comes from the outdrive, and take the time to hook up a garden hose to back flush it toward the outdrive. I assume you have the outdrive off, and have check and are certian the outdrive to the mount is clear and free.... Then see if the flow comes out the outdrive yoke, if it dose flow free then you know what side your plug is on, and go from there.

Your grounds on the batterys can be common, you should sepperate the positive, and each should go from the battery to a 120 amp max fuse. From the fuse then they can go to the switch, and from the switch to your starter for your main motor. Then run a fuse box off the 120 amp fuse from the house battery and make all your connections to that fuse pannel/box. One of the best ways to get things right is use one of the "add a battery kits" that Blue sea puts out, the have an ACR build in so charging your main and house batterys take care of themselfs.

I would be confident that its just a statification (thermo cline or simlilar) they are not aways lakewide as there are always changes with current and temps.

Are you wiring it to the same battery as the main motor, or the trolling motor? If you run two batterys then both motors should be hooked to the "start battery" then wire the FF to the "house" battery, and your problem will go away. Use a ACR (automatic charging relay) {blue sea sells them in a kit called "add a Battery"} and you can charge your "house" battery once your start battery is up to charge. Your problem is like herding cats otherwise.

If your careful and cut the bridge off without dammaging it, that would be worth something to some one looking to put one on. Take it off carefully and sell it, it will probably pay for the whole job. The fly bridge/roof raising is the easyest job, I would go with aluminum as its easy to work with and lasts forever and is light. The only hard part is the transition from one to the other so it looks good or as good a possable.

Thats the one, all the knowledge you need..... You can find a huge buch of info there on modifing your truck (diesle) and make it work great.

If I drive (I know this is hard to believe but its true) 55 on the highway with no load on the flat and level I get 32 mpg! But that is with my chip turned all the way up. They really do profit by some tweaking with chips, they are down to a science now. They are automatic in there operation now and easy to use (the chips) they will pay for themselves in 2 years, they do cost from 500 to 1300$ for a good chip, but again they pay for themselves in 2 years and they wake up your truck like crazy. When one it installed they do not damage your truck, if you are using it properly and not abusing it. I can light up all 4 of my tires and burn them right off if I want, but that really hurts the gas mileage.. Towing I tow a big toy hauler, and I can run up hills passing mid size cars with lots of acceleration in the pedal yet. Go to the web site DTR and you will find a bunch of real pros and when you buy from them Larry is one of the greatest guys you will ever deal with, and full of good advice of what is working the best for what years of trucks. But you will find they are all Cummings there.

I have 04 dodge cummins that's been BOMed. (better off modify) I have 600 pluss horse to use. And with no load I can get 24 on the highway but towing I'm at 19 to 21 no matter what. If you go diesel the cummings is the hands down best if any one wants to argue its a joke. Go to a sled pull and see what 99% have. The biggest reason is they can be BOMed and HP = file savings if you controll yourself. [ Post made via Mobile Device ]

One of the best poles I have found is the heartland planer board pole HLD-W 762ML. 7' 6".md light line 8-16 lb. It had bigger eyes letting the swivels go through easier and has a nice soft action to it. I bought 5 and replaced all mine. PM me if you are interested in some. [ Post made via Mobile Device ]

You definitly should get one designed for being a kicker, you will avoid alot of problems right there. I have the Yama 9.9 and it worked great on a 21 foot starcraft, and now works great on the 26 footer, and it will go about 4mph on either, thats exactly what its designed for not speed but consistant trolling, with moderate rmps, and charging (6 amps). Like it alot.

Hey great report, we didn't do so well in Oswego [ Post made via Mobile Device ]