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AnglingAddict

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Everything posted by AnglingAddict

  1. Good luck Joe!
  2. Cool!!!! Congrats!
  3. These are what I have - they don't draw much current despite how bright they are....Definitely have no problem illuminating the back deck. http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|65136|2312576&id=2526427
  4. Thanks - this is his 3rd year fishing the lake and have watched him progress every year - very satisfying indeed! It's a family thing for us, and we get out as much as possible.
  5. 2017 Oswego Trout and Salmon Vid Made another re-cap vid of the season. Hope you enjoy watching it as much as we did making it! Enjoy! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=08Vv-TiBk5g
  6. Went last year for the first time and it was great to hear other perspectives - will definitely be signing up again this year!
  7. Cleaning out the basement today - you got lucky!
  8. New NAP 100 grain Nitron broadheads and blades I have 9 brand new never shot NAP 100 grain NAP Nitron broadheads, plus an additional 11 spare blades and tool to change out blades. 1 1/16" cutting diameter. Looking to get $35 for all. Add $6 for USPS flat rate shipping. PM for more info
  9. Pete - He wasn't there all season. Came at some point right after we moved back to Blue dock from the International which was right before the Invitational and said he was staying in until Oct 1st.
  10. Same here - very curious to know what happened. Terrible situation.
  11. Best thing you can do to help prevent a tragedy like this is to make sure you have all safety equipment on board, in good condition and easily accessible. Make sure all thru hulls are properly bedded with the correct sealant (not caulk or silicone). Inspect hoses yearly for dry rot, cracks or leaks, and make sure all are double clamped with stainless clamps. Ball valves near thru hulls are good as well. Bellows inspected and replaced at regular intervals if it's an I/O. At least a couple bilge pumps as well as an indicator at the dash when a pump is on, wire right into a float switch - this could give you an early indication that something is seeping if you notice the bilge kicking on more than usual. High water alarm as well. Rags on board can be used to plug holes in a pinch and slow down rate at which water comes in. One last thing is to know your boat...inside and out. Things can still happen fast no doubt.
  12. As I left to run the boat to Sodus at the end of the season a couple weeks back wife snapped a pic of our boat as I was pulling away - the bayliner on the end of the dock is the boat that went down.
  13. It was an outboard boat....
  14. The gentleman was out with two others - sounds like they took on water and as boat was going down 2 jumped and rode a cooler for a couple hours before being picked up by another fisherman. The gentleman who owned the boat went down with the boat and according to the 2 survivors they didn't see him in the water after the boat went under. He was found in the cuddy - my guess is it happened fast and he went down to get life preservers and got trapped as the boat went down. Small cuddy so I can only imagine maybe he was struggling to get to life preservers with rods and tackle all over the place. Probably panicking as well. His boat was slipped a couple slips down from me. Nice guy - I'm not sure what happened, but as with most tragedies it is usually a chain of events which leads to the overall outcome.
  15. Assuming your outdrive is submerged - a 20" shaft looks like it would work just fine in that application. What's distance from where it mounts to say bottom of the trim tab - you definitely want the prop for the kicker in clean water below the hull if possible. I am guessing in the pic the bracket is in the "down" position based on where the bottom paint is applied...
  16. Have to figure out where you are going to mount it - most kickers are 20" shaft - mount it as low as possible without swamping it. The brackets that can lift the kicker up when you are running are ideal.
  17. You could look at the current draw for all of the items that run continuously, that's the baseline and then make some assumptions about the other stuff - should be able to get a ballpark number you can go off of. I honestly just don't think you will be able to make-do without charging for any length of time, and if your main starts off of the batteries everything else runs off of - that could spell trouble.
  18. Honestly - I don't know. A few years back a brand new Yamaha 9.9 High Thrust was around $2500 new which included forward controls, electric start/trim and obviously charging system. I would think if you looked you could find one for a grand give or take... Have to look at how much you run and what power consumed by everything is when you are fishing - chartplotters, fish finders, speed/temp probes, bilge pumps, stereo, washdown pumps, riggers, etc. I'm not sure what you are running, but without charging it doesn't take long for batteries to get drawn down under these conditions...
  19. Why don't you buy a kicker with a charging system? It seems like that would solve your issues with charging while fishing. Auto-pilots also will consume a fair amount of power as well depending on how rough it is and how active the AP has to work on any given day. Charging systems on the Yamaha Hugh Thrusts and Merc Pro-kickers put out like 10-15 amps...
  20. STP Oil Treatment contains Zinc - specifically ZDDP which is the stuff you want in your oil. I use Rotella 15/40 in my Crusaders and a bottle of STP oil treatment at every oil change (every 50 hours).
  21. This is what I was trying to describe - I made a small "shelf" out of Starboard and then underneath the RAM mount attaches. On the top I have my speed/temp units mounted.
  22. Throw a piece of starboard between the ram mount and the X4 mount. On backside mount starboard to ram mount, topside screw the X4 into the starboard.
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