High Bidder

Its an OMC open system. The side that overheated is the side where the water flows in the opposite direction in the thermostat housing in relation to the water input hose. I at first thought that the power steering cooler got clogged with seaweed and restricted the flow or the impeller in the outdrive failed but neither seemed to be damaged or clogged. I guess I'll run water through the manifolds with the muffs on the outdrive and make sure water is flowing through the manifolds adequately before attaching the exhaust outlets and running the new engine.

This August my engine exhaust manifold and riser overheated on the right side of the engine. Engine temperature was 170 degrees but the manifold became hot enough to melt the flapper and start the rubber coupling on fire. The manifolds and risers are 3 years old and seem to be open as I can run water through them easily. The outdrive impeller was new and is in the right direction. Luckily it ran at an idle and stayed cool enough for me to get the ten miles back to the launch as water was coming in the exhaust and I have two bilge pumps but one seemed to keep me afloat. Would this be caused by the outdrive pump, while looking good was not suppling enough water to the engine? Or was it a engine problem? This was a used engine I installed and it never seemed to idle correctly. I'm replacing it with a rebuilt long block but still don't know what caused this problem and don't want it to happen again. The only parts I didn't replace is the manifolds and risers. I installed new flappers, water pumps, thermostat and made sure the oil cooler is clear.

Thank you, I thought it would swap if I got a 5.7 chevy OMC complete but I ended up buying another Ford. I'll see tomorrow if it is really a low hour engine. Every now and then I get lucky.

Yesterday I made it a quarter mile through the no wake area and when I opened it up, my Ford 5.0 OMC 's crank broke. So I packed it up and drove 6 hrs home. How difficult would it be to convert it to a 5.7 if I bought the entire boat and did a change. Either way I going to miss this season of salmon fishing but it would be easier getting parts for a Chevy block. Here's more details. It is a OMC IO outdrive. I was going to buy a chevy engine with an OMC outdrive for the swap. I just need to know if the mounting to the transom bracket is the same. The wiring will connect I was told by a boat dealer.

I installed the updates and calibrated the unit. Won't use it again until next year so I hope it solved my issues.

Got a reply today from Fish Hawk. Most likely it cannot be repaired so when it fails completely next year I'll buy a new display.

Glad to hear you guys got service from Fish Hawk. They didn't even have the courtesy to tell me my display is over the warranty limit and I'm SOL. Since some of the LCD's are failing I have to guess at some readings of probe depth. I guess there only made to last 3 or 4 years.

On my Lowrance elite12 T1 the cursor keeps appearing and I have to select Clear cursor every 5 minutes to show the position of my boat. I tried to connect to the Lowrance website to see if there is an upgrade for this problem but I couldn't connect. Has anyone else had this issue? Also the touch screen doesn't react sometimes and I have to try numerous times to clear the cursor. I installed a Lowrance unit because it is compatible with my Simrad autopilot and I use it only for GPS.

It took me a lot of planning and courage to drill that 2 3/8" hole in my hull for the B60. I had to machine special wrenches to install it, but it was well worth it. No more fading at higher speeds.