Sk8man

In his view alone the entire NYS population are his "subjects". But like a lot of other politicians they are legends in their own minds and as a point of fact I am nobodys "subject" rolmops.. and I hold no allegiance to either political party.

I think it is usually the last Sunday in March

Ah OK. As far as the kicker it would probably depend on whether you have enough space on the transom (you didn't mention what type main motor you already have but usually I/O, inboard or Tunnel drive etc. on those boats) or if using a bracket you'd need a very stout one especially if the 25 hp is a four stroke. That motor with power tilt will be pretty heavy despite the size of the boat. I'm assuming you are intending to fish Lake O? Or Finger Lakes too? Most of the lures and attractors can be used in both places but often the rod and reel setups but you didn't mention what rods and reels you may already have. As far as Lake trout fishing in both Lake O and the Finger Lakes one of the most productive things to use with riggers or on wire rigs is cowbells (Hammerhead Spinners are very good) with Gambler Rigs behind them. They come in many color combinations and sizes but they all work well. I prefer the #4 and #5 cowbells and the regular sized gambler Rigs but the micro sized ones work on the Finger Lakes too. These cowbells offer less resistance in the water than the older style metal ones (e.g. Luhr Jensen's and others). They can be found here: https://www.hammerheadchartersandtackle.com/40-50-spinners/ The gambler rigs can be found here: https://gamblerrigs.com/ As far as salmon and trout : everyone has favorite spoons and stickbaits on here and they have been discussed in depth on various threads here so maybe searching for those threads would help you select some specific ones to try. Size is important; It is best to have an assortment of sizes in both spoons or sticks and a range of colors both light and dark and some just silver, brass, and copper. The magnum spoons seem to be less productive on the Finger Lakes at least for me but at some times in the season they are very productive on Lake O. Although downriggers can be workhorses there are times when they don't necessarily excel out there and wire dipsy divers are a main way to catch trout and salmon especially when used with attractors such as flashers and Spin Doctors which came in a number of sizes as well. The attractors can also be run behind downriggers and commonly employ flies behind them or spoons. Combinations of green and white has always been a "go to" for me on both the attractor and fly. As you go along other setups can be added such as leadcore and copper wire run from planer boards. I know this is just general information and it is intended to give you an idea what to search for on here for specific recommendations regarding lures, colors etc. There is a wealth of information already available here on just about anything you can imagine if you research it. P.S. Another thing to help with the rigger fishing if you haven't already done it is get some shark shaped weights that offer less resistance in the water than the older style weights so that your depth penetration is better. Some older electric motors only were recommended for 10 lbs max and in general the heavier weights tend to create less "blowback" of the downrigger wire. Bikinibottom on here makes some very nice effective shark shaped weights in a number of weights and are highly recommended.

I'm going to suggest something that might seem a bit off the point but maybe a good idea: before you get too far along take a charter from one of the guys on this website. Ask in advance if you can bounce some ideas and questions off them. Make a list of questions beforehand that is relevant to your situation (e.g like the things above). Watch very closely how things are done on that boat and how it is setup and see if there are things you can replicate on your own boat. I know it costs money for a charter (maybe get some buddies to go in on it with you), and seems like it might not be absolutely necessary but it could turn out to be the most productive way to answer your questions and gain actual hands on experience which can shorten the learning curve by years rather than going out in your boat alone the first time (not a great idea anyway) and trying to figure out stuff that was suggested on here.

Don, If it breaks at the crimp near the swivel snap (snap which is rated for about 200 plus pounds) the safety wire (90 lb ss wire) should still hold it if the crimp in the middle of the release prevents the Black release from sliding down (hopefully). The Fishhawk break away cable is designed to prevent loss of the probe by sacrificing the weight alone but this is presuming the main cable doesn't break. The setup above is in addition to the break away cable (not pictured). The Fishhawk breakaway cable attaches to the main swivel snap pictured above and the snap of the safety wire also snaps on the probe along with the main snap so both attach in the same hole to the top of the probe. As I mentioned it hasn't been tested but I have seen a couple of the probes deep sixed on other boats so I figured it was worth the $300 for a new probe to try something different.

This setup has never been tested (thank God) but on my probe rigger I have a "safety" line also hooked to the probe itself in the event of a failure of the main connection point. I use an older version of the Black release that is attached right on the wire and a 90 lb wire with heavy duty swivel attached to the middle of the release which is 150 lb rigger cable and I attach both swivels to the probe. In the event of failure of the main connection theoretically the probe by itself would still be attached by the "safety wire". There is a crimp in the middle of the Black to prevent it from sliding down.

I've never had a thimble fail but I have had barrel swivels fail more than once so that is my rationale for what I suggested which is the way i set my own up

Rookie is right. I'd get that breakaway cable pictured. None of the cable connections are a guarantee if for example you get hung up on something but much cheaper to replace a weight than the probe. I think a potential weak link may be the Chamberlain connection. Why not secure the probe to the main downrigger connection (assuming it is secure) and use a stacker version Chamberlain above the main downrigger snap? It would eliminate one possible weak link in the system. Then attach the Fishhawk standard breakaway cable to the main snap with the probe and then the weight. I think it may be a bit safer. Anytime you can eliminate a connection point you eliminate one potential failure point

I'm sure the Emperor would approve of your research method and grab credit for himself though

Custom canvas is definitely the way to go and John not only does the best job but he is fair in pricing. Nothing is cheap these days but neither are boat problems as the result of water intrusion.

On second thought Hank is right. Have John Mann do it if you want it to be exactly what you want and perfectly done. You won't find anyone better.

Fond memories of earlier days (without a dog) when they would flush in the pines and scare the crap of of you and usually when you least expected it

It sure wasn't any noise you guys made that accounted for the results. I talked with an old timer after I got off the ice and he had a camera down the whole time and he said he never would have caught anything if not for the camera as the fish were coming up to the bait and just sitting there looking and opening their mouth and "testing" the bait without moving the rod tip etc. That accounts for all the "lookers" I had that stayed there for quite some time without me detecting a bite on the Vex. Even focusing on the line rather than the rod tip didn't give any clues to what they were doing. They always do something to keep you on your toes Regardless it was just good being out there rather than in the house wondering what was going on out there.

Hey longspurs I guess that was you I spoke with when the two of you guys walked off the ice. I didn't realize it was you at the time. I was the guy you said was sleeping while jigging I guess it could have been from lack of action that is for sure. Nice going as it was not the best of days fishing wise for most folks there today.

Address on previous page here

Reportedly 6 billion short. If any business operated like NYS with the Emperor for a CEO it would have been defunct a long time ago.

For whatever reason Vex batteries seem to mess up if you charge them with a charger other than the one that came with the unit despite being the same voltage/amperage (unit has some sort of memory?). I had a brand new back up battery that I charged up after purchase with another charger and I had the problem you are describing. The battery tested fully charged but wouldn't work in my FLX20

That is exactly what my wife and I discussed yesterday. Kinda neat to see a team that hasn't played in one in 50 years too

Looks like the little guy might have a pinochio problem too

Hey its all in fun....both our teams got dusted

The Chamberlains do excel at the lighter fish release but they also max out at 4 lbs release strength so for running attractors, meat rigs etc. the Black's have a higher release strength. I have both and sometimes use the Chamberlain Stacker Release right on the same riggers with the Black's and located right above the Black on the wire (e.g. for walleyes or perch etc.). This way have the best of both worlds when after multi-species.

We will offer our sympathies to you after the games Bill