Sk8man

You might want to throw a twilli on one and try it out and see how you like it. Can always just put the regular tip back on if you don't. They do have a softer tip action but it isn't bad and actually may be advantageous sometimes providing a little flex since the wire doesn't give. They are inexpensive rods but they seem to work Ok I have had a number of decent sized kings on them. Are they the "ultimate":? no and I find a little better control with the stiffer 6 1/2 roller rods.

I have a couple of Diawa Wilderness 8 1/2 ft. rods one with twilli and one with roller tip that I use when I go on other boats (as they are medium length) and they work fine and they handle decent salmon so they can be used but as Mr 580 indicated a good choice would be a specific diver rod.. When I fish solo on my own boat Ii use 6 1/6 ft light/medium roller rods for easy management and if I wish to run 4 wires with two people the difference in length of the 8 1/2 ft.permits it. I have never cared for the longer type (e.g. 10ft) as they seem less manageable and harder to store.

Real good advice for much of the season. You do however have to take into account the differences in seasons too. such as the Spring and Fall when the fish are in close and the wires may not be the top choice in shallow and it also depends a bit on the main species you are after during those times It pays in the long run to have a variety of set-ups so that you can optimize your fishing strategies throughout the seasons. You can accrue different setups gradually along the way and frequently there are some very good bargains on LOU so it doesn't have to be outrageously expensive if done gradually and carefully. If you choose good quality equipment and do your homework you may only have to do it once. I have had some of my equipment for 30-40 years and it is still working fine and newest and most expensive is not always best.

My suggestion above relates mostly to the shape (slender and long like smelt but they like small stuff that look like fathead minnows too....Hinckleys will work too.

With the extra long shaft you'd probably be dragging in the water with it all the way up for sure. You might not see it while on land but the boat sits lower while in the water

The reason I mentioned a bracket is what Andy is mentioning as it allows you to get the motor up and out of the water (i.e. not dragging which can mess it up) and because you have a greater range of motion for turning with the kicker.

Given the size of your boat and weight considerations you may wish to look at a smaller kicker than a 9.9 and certainly one without trim/tilt as extra weight. Some of the Tohatsu's are lighter framed than the Merc's for example yet offer good performance. You might be able to get away with a 6 hp for that boat but an 8hp would do a great job and get you off the lake a little faster in an emergency. You could probably get out and away from any transom "obstacles" with a bracket and steering bar set-up hooked to your main motor. interestingly, I found that I could do away with the EZsteer setup when I moved from a 2 stroke to 4 stroke kicker (more torque). I just steer with my big motor unless it is pretty rough (3-6 footers). You may wish to at least experiment before actually buying and installing a steering hook-up.

I should qualify what I meant by "slider" as it could be confused with what we use with downriggers which is totally different. These sliders are originally from the world of saltwater stillfishing and I adapt them in a number of ways to the fishing I do in fresh water. Here is a pic. Basically the weight is suspended from the large duolock snap and the yellow collar is rotated either clockwise or counter clockwise on the slotted part so it stays on your line. The weight can then slide up and down the mainline,or backing as desired and will stop at a swivel snap or if a split shot is placed on the line in a desired spot and then taken off when retrieved. If I wish to have a weight stay put somewhere on the line I use the offshore release type with the pinch pad and place it wherever I desire.

Um....if this an eye exam....I'm screwed

As far as the smelt as bait go.....if you have any Sutton #31 or 71's they might be just the ticket too

You can do it a number of ways even having the weight on a slider going up and down the leadcore. I like the lure pulling the leadcore downward a little but depending on what I am running I do it both ways

I'd use the 320"s better drag system and a little more capacity. I have a couple set up for 5 and 7 colors with 200 yds of 30 lb backing. If you can find power handles for them it could help with the line take up. To get deeper just use snap weights before the leader connection; otherwise wire set-ups are better suited to the deep water stuff and bottom trolling for lakers.

The bottom line here is that there isn't any one correct answer to the question.....more like "all of the above" as it is all good advice The price tag for all of the stuff mentioned (if you don't already have some of it is not insurmountable). Experiment - no one method or setup is "best" all of the time. as mentioned let the fish tell you which they prefer but by trying multiple things you'll learn a lot along the way too.

Ah sorry Horsehunter I did think you were referring to Lake O

For a few years now three rods per person has been the legal limit

I've been sharpening all my fillet knives on my new electric knife sharpener and mulling over the putting together of the new smoker My ice fishing stuff is already in the vehicle

I'm not sure about Lake George but in many of the Finger lakes where landlocks are they tend to congregate in late Fall right through now at the south ends of the lakes and can be found roaming the shallows as well as in the upper levels of deeper water and around creek mouths. At this time of the year the sawbellies go deep and are largely bottom oriented and the lakers often follow them out there in the depth near bottom but the salmon having a diverse diet and roaming "genes" seem to be all over and less predictable than lakers. I have caught them just under the ice in Keuka and rainbows and browns likewise on Canandaigua in water less than 30 ft.deep so they do roam around in shallower water in the winter time. I would be trying small say J7 Rapalas in silver and/or gold, small 2-3 inch spoons trolled at variable speeds (experimenting). The jointed Rapalas seem to tolerate higher speed and speed on turns a little better and just adding a large split shot about 3-4 ft above it can be productive and the floaters can go pretty shallow without problems A single color or two of leadcore can be productive with a red streamer run behind it on a small sized dodger too. It may pay to run lures further back than usual as it will slow them on turns which is in keeping with their metabolism now in the colder water.but don't assume that slow speed per se is totally necessary either because if they see something they view as vulnerable and are hungry they will go after it. I would definitely stay in the small to medium (at most) range for lures. I think you'll be OK with the strategy you mentioned above too. I have been told it is a somewhat fickle lake for silvers so you may have to "work" for them and cover a lot of water Don't be reluctant to try some "start and stops" intermittently along the way either.

X2 I'm with Rick At some point folks have to step back and realize what is best practice for the entire fishery aside from money and special interests.etc. The process of spawning itself should be respected according to species too (e.g. perch in the Fingers). We are often too short sighted in our approach and "blinded" by short term interests which in the long run can really screw us over no matter whether lake or stream is our primary concern.

Doesn't get any better than that! Merry Christmas Tim and family.

Good one Hank Hope you have the best one ever!