Sk8man

Hope they don't belong to the dog....he looks a bit concerned

works anyway. Used to use this version too and for a regular downrigger release before the Blacks came out

There are many ways to do this and I'm sure others have ideas here but this is what I have used for about 30 years. The rubber bands can be found in craft stores or perhaps dollar stores, the shrink wrap at automotive stores, the duolock snaps can be ordered from many places (largest possible size), trot line clips (used for set lines or trot lines for catfish etc.I used to get at Netcraft (online). Bought a bunch a long time ago so not sure if they still carry them) P.S. They carry a lot more items in their printed catalog than are listed on their website)

Some comments for folks that haven't had the experience of fishing solo or are new to it: The solo fisherman is a strange animal... we always want to maximize our chances of catching fish, but minimize our limitations in the process and often fail to see that what we are doing is all about "risk management". After stacking and using cheaters both sliding and fixed for more than 40 years and fishing solo for much of it it seems that there are a few aspects to it that become essential in determining the outcome: a) anticipation of potential outcomes when setting up ( including multiple fish at the same time on the same rod or two rods), b) how to maintain boat control and speed while fighting the fish, and c) netting considerations. Situation a involves planning the exact set-up of the rods and lines beforehand and anticipating what might happen and how to react to multiple fish - usually with fish on multiple rods you have to determine quickly which fish you might be able to let take out drag, adjusting it properly and staying in the rod holder while dealing with the other. Issue b involves the use of an autopilot for many folks now in reducing the load by one person which you don't have - but for many of us without the option it involves letting the boat go with the wind for easier control while slowing the motor enough to allow the fish to be "towed' by the weight of the boat a bit tiring them out more quickly. Most of the time you will not be doing "catch and release" with kings either as they will be spent. Issue c involves thinking beforehand about how you are going to accomplish netting while holding the rod as well, and how you are going to position yourself within the boat (and not outside it). I used to use long leads on my attractor set-ups and then hand line fish into the net and this still can work for smaller fish but for angry kings risks of losing the fish or getting severe cuts to your fingers are increased ten fold. I keep the total length to just short of my rod length (e.g. 6-7 ft or so for an 8 1/2 ft. rod) and set the rod in the rod holder with the drag adjusted so that it is a little tighter than usual but still below breaking strength of the line once the fish is tired and more cooperative...but positioning of the rod holder is something to consider beforehand too. As far as the free-slider vs. the fixed slider I think the free slider has significant advantages both action-wise and in terms of "simplicity" over the fixed approach, but with the fixed approach using the rubber band - selection of the specific rubber band is important. I use the little rubber bands used by females for their hair as they break fairly easily and they are very small and can be reeled right into the reel through the line guide if necessary without messing with the remaining band on the line with the fish on the other end. Using a fixed or free slider cheater above an attractor, or with a stickbait at the end of a mainline can be done but it often leads to various tangling problems especially with fish like kings and probably not worth the effort or risk of losing or messing up your equipment. Again, just my own two cents thrown in for what it is worth

Cool....good luck with it Joe.

Going bigger Joe? or no time anymore

Amen

I think that is one of the best deals I have seen on here....nice going Mike Guess there is no sense me entering the Seneca Derby next time

Nice fish and looks like you guys had some fun despite the short time out

Try right out in front of Dean's where it drops off to check things out.Usually a variety of fish there. We usually do well on the rainbows and salmon across the lake near Wells College (Aurora) just be careful with your dipsys as it comes up very abruptly there like a wall on the shelf. If you are unsure of where it is just point your boat to the right a little and head for the eastern shore and you may pick up a few lakers along the way

Small to medium light weight flutter spoons work best trolled pretty fast for rainbows. It is a good place to experiment.....different sizes, types, action (don't be afraid to bend one and play with it ). You may also wan t try short leads at first and then gradually lengthen them as the day moves on. Keep changing up your speed until you find something that clicks and make a lot of turns and if you notice current run on a diagonal to it or against it. Not sure with this latest weather and wind where the thermocline will be located but often it runs from about 40 -75 or so about now. Run your stuff deeper for lakers. They usually respond well to both flashers or Spin docs with flies of spoons. I'd use magnum spoons down real deep but smaller or mediums for everything else. As the sun gets higher in the sky move out toward the middle and run stuff a little deeper. A s I mentioned before I haven't been out here on awhile so this is just based on previous experience so keep experimenting. Give your spoons a work out best way to tell Good luck.

If the weather is decent forget about the north end of Canandaigua it will probably be packed on the weekend especially. South end if you go early AM should be better. I live right here within 5 minutes of the north end launch at Canandaigua and fish Dean's and Lake O at this time of year if that tells you anything Fleas are reportedly bad as are the weed pads floating around in Canandaigua.

Hey nice job painting the blood on that plastic fish Mike bought I guess it took you being in the boat to get him a good one....nice work Mike and Mike

The older style (i.e.without autostop) toggles will stay up until shut off by operator

That b rings up a question I have had for some time: In the past there was some concern regarding cross breeding between Chinook and Cohos because of some suspicious physical shared characteristics appearing making the exact fish identification a question. I think the usual hybridization of species somehow usually renders them sterile. Is this perhaps the mechanism responsible for a decrease in the Cohos if it is in fact occurring?

The difference in the 3 and 4 prong switches is the auto stop feature. The switch is probably bad but I was just suggesting checking for corrosion because it could act in a similar way to corrupt the switch.Sometimes the little boot covering the toggle gets cracked or a hole in it and lets in water and messes up the switch. The guys at fish307 in Lake George are great to deal with and will help you out if they still have the stuff in stock. Just describe the problem and they will know what you need.

There are 3 prong and 4 prong types so make sure you order the right one if you do. I would check the connections to the switch for corrosion and possibly spray with electronic contact cleaner as a first thing to try...may just be a poor connection since you have it momentarily . Also if there is an inline fuse I'd try replacing it in case it has corrosion too.