Sk8man

They look better than some of the brand new ones Krystian! Nice job on them and the video. Thanks for sharing

Alternate Option: (that the rest of us didn't take) visit a psychiatrist instead probably cheaper and more comfortable on your back

x2 on either option - you want the very best for your "baby"

I know there has been a lot of controversy previously here about this question of netting from the head or tail of the fish and despite strong opinions we are left witht the fact that both methods work if the person with the net knows what they are doing. I was schooled by old timers back in the 1960's fishing the Finger Lakes and every one of them netted trout from behind and low so that the fish did not see the net or get spooked but it takes practice and a degree of skill. The problem of the common practice of netting from the head is that a) the fish can and do easily get spooked and take off like a rocket if not really fully tired out from the fight. b) there is an increased risk of knocking the lure or hook out of the mouth with the net; especially with inexperienced netters. An important facet of the netting operation is where in the boat you attempt to net the fish. (All these comments are assuming you have a large long handled net). Netting from the back there is the risk of the fish diving under the prop as they near the boat (especially with large kings and big browns). In netting from toward the back at the side (salmon and rainbows/steelies) often try to keep up with the boat and swim along on the side) and when they don't see the net (presented behind and under them they are only capable of moving forward and if they turn around and run they are in the net. The logical comment here would be yeh but they can take off forward. They may on occasion try it but if they are feeling the pressure of the line and swimming to keep up with the boat they seldom realize that the net is there or what is about to happen. If repeated unsuccessful attempts are made here trying to net them from the head or tail it often spooks them if you're not real quick and adept at it so you're stuck with whatever works. Basically, it is necessary to plan and communicate before the fish arrives at the boat so that the person with the rod is on the same page and communicating with the netter about exactly what is intended and what is happening. Over the years I've found that reducing boat speed to let the fish pull the boat somewhat while using the drag of the reel to control it tends to tire out the fish the best and gradually bringing to the rear side posiition without exposing the net to the fish and then scooping them from underneath and behind is the most workable on my boat and I haven't lost a fish in many many years doing it this way. I know this may fly in the face of what many if not most guys including the "experts" are doing but with either way the developed skill (and quickness)of the netter is the most important variable.

I haven't fished it in quite a few years but there used to be some decent Spring fishing for rainbows from the mouth and toward the electric plant, holes near the bridge, up to the first waterfalls. They are in and out so it is sort of a matter of being lucky to be there at the right time or very frequent checking. The Keuka Outlet and section from first impassable falls (near Route #14) to the lake proper is closed to fishing until April 1st. There are also brown trout (some of them resident and some stocked) in the upper sections of the stream in the Spring and Summer. There used to be a couple good holes with many in the 12 to 18 inch range where the old hydroelectric plant (Mays MIlls?) turbines were (just parts of old foundation left). They are quite wary but they will take the small red (manure worms) on ultralight tackle.

I know this could be irrelevant but if this is a change in the way the boat comes up to plane since you've had the boat you may wish to check for water logging of the hull/transom and weight distribution within the boat.

Best of luck. If you have any Kastmasters and even the old medium sized Daredevils they can work too

X2 on Taughannock. It is one place where you can cast into quite deep water easily. Casting heavy spoons and letting them sink toward bottom before retrieving, fishing with live bait such as shiners will work as well. One of the best things for multi-species there is using egg sacks fished both suspended by bobbers and right on bottom.A variety of trout, and lakers and salmon cruise along there all season long but it is quite "on and off" so patience is necessary usually.

Try Netcraft. They have much more stuff in their printed catalogue than the website though.

rolmops makes a good point about the environment. My take on the political thing itself is that for years now the TWO PARTY system has not worked nor truly represented the best interests of the people. Dicotomized thinking (e.g. only black and white no "shades of grey") and exteme polarization has never effectively solved complex problems or provided good compromises. What is truly needed at both the Federal and State levels is a strong representative THIRD PARTY to force compromise and reduce polarization (and dysfunction). Sorry for side tracking the topic....it must have been that fourth cup of coffee.

Welcome to LOU Carl. I think you'll like it here....great bunch of people with a lot of knowledge. By the way Carl I live here in Canandaigua so if you wish to chat a bit send me a PM (Personal Message). Les

Haven't hunted in years but my 12 guage Ithaca Model 37 with Deerslayer 20 inch barrel was accurate as heck with nearly any slug fired from it even when I converted it to a pistol grip for different use

A hammer/drill is what is needed with adjustable settings for either high speed drill or torque and it needs to be used on the high torque setting for ice drilling. The 8 inch augers take a lot of juice and I found that stepping down to a 7 inch is just right to really extend the battery. I also bought a few 18 volt 1/2 inch drills such as the Ryobi, Makita, Dewalt, and Black and Decker and had to take them all back because they wouldn't perform capably - before I stumbled upon the Bosch 1/2 inch Hammer/drill which is an animal and I have drilled over 50 holes at a time in 8 inches or more ice without tapping out a single battery. The torque is rated at 750 lbs. The sharpness of the blades is more important than the torque once you have enough battery and sufficient torque available. It is something that overkill may not be real desireable as even the 750 lbs can feel like it is going to snap your wrist sometimes. The new Milwakees and Bosch drills are the way to go in my opinion. Having two batteries (just in case) is always desireable too. By the way, I've had my first Bosch for about 10 years and drilled thousands of holes and still have the same two batteries and hammer/drill. I just bought a new one this year for the ice and will use the other at home as a high speed drill