Jump to content

Sk8man

Professional
  • Posts

    13,865
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Sk8man

  1. I think the key here is "long" coppers. It is the length of time bringing in the fish say on a 600 copper that is critical. I don't use anything longer than 300 and add weight if needed. 100 yds (length of a football field) is a long way behind the boat just for the wire alone.
  2. He has helped out a bunch of buddies and in each case total satisfaction with the job done....rare level of competence in these times and highly commendable
  3. John said it right Nick. Both you guys give helpful reports and information and it is based on solid knowledge and experience. It is unfortunate that anyone would make negative comments but it is the world we now live in where folks no longer trust each other, question their intentions or motives, or get off on antagonizing people by their negative comments. Don't let it discourage you from doing it. Keep at it out there. I for one hope that Seneca recycles or re-boots itself to the levels of times past. Folks should not forget that Seneca is not a stagnant body of water; it is very much alive and ever changing all of the time and "cleansing" itself via the Seneca River and the strong lake currents etc. Some other bodies of water may not be so lucky. Still my favorite Finger Lake with lots of room for everybody
  4. I enjoyed the video Pete thanks for sharing it.
  5. The real trick is how I'm going to be able to do it SOLO and I haven't figured that one out yet
  6. You are right about the knot stuff but despite some folks aversion to wire crimps I have used them for 40 plus years and never have problems with them if carefully applied and routinely checked as should be done with any line or connection points. You do need to use the right size for the particular wire diameter used though.
  7. You may wish to consider the 19 strand wire (if you can find some.....most placed are backordered). Some folks have suggested that it keeps the fleas off better and is less liable to kink. They all work if you are careful in deploying and maintaining them by keeping tensions at all times.
  8. Bob- The tool seems to work best scraping across the wire which offers some resistance to it. On mono it didn't seem to work as well because the mono doesn't give the resistance to it but I used it to scrape them down the line and into a clump which i removed most of by hand. On the copper I kept the braid backing to a minimum out and didn't have any significant fleas (which seemed like a real blessing) They weren't to the extent that they collected on the .downriggers so that wasn't any problem at least at this time out. The flea tool seems to clean off relatively easily by dipping it in the water and moving it back and forth. I keep 4 of them handy
  9. Used to be used on A and S reels some victrolas and other bottom fishing and hand rigs similar to pulling copper but it is very soft and very easily kinks. The sink rate was pretty similar to some single strand copper (not the braided copper we now use on copper rigs) which varied in diameter usually 018-.030 in. I think the sink rate may have been most similar to the .024 in. diameter. It is a soft dull colored silver wire ( when used - similar to the look of solder).
  10. Sk8man

    Cayuga Fleas

    Here is an example on one of the wires from yesterday in the area around Long Point Weed pods patchy but mostly on east side between Long Point and Aurora escaped them in the middle of the lake.
  11. Fun derby. My son and I camped the weekend at Cayuga Lake State Park and launched at Dean's Cove. We caught a bunch of fish mostly lakers one ten pounds and another about that and many 5-8 lbs biggest salmon about 7. It would sure be nice if they had a weigh station somewhere closer to the fishing (e.g. Long Point maybe?). heat was brutal fleas were pretty bad too. The new tool (paint stick with velcro) worked but it isn't a total panacea or solution especially for mono lines. Never had any fleas on the 300 copper though. Pics of a couple of the fish:
  12. You have to really watch the heat application (transfering through the metal tip to the rod itself) to the fiberglass it can weaken it if too much. The new packages of twillis come with a few different inside diameter adapters that fit most standard rods but if you now have a rod tip diameter that is too large for the largest inside diameter you may have to go with a roller tip instead. I like them better anyway. If you go the roller approach look around for a used roller tip rod that has the steel tips NOT the ones with aluminum sides they allow wire to cut through them
  13. Nice going Wes. Thanks for the report. Maybe see ya out there this weekend we'll be launching out of Dean's. I'll bet those folks are still talking about the fishing Good luck in the derby if I don't get a chance to connect.
  14. Wow ! I hope whatever you have Cornelis it isn't contagious....thats terrible. After that the fleas were probably not even a concern....
  15. Ive had my Garelick bracket since 2002 and this is the second motor on it.....never a problem and I've trailered with it vertical the entire time. My bracket is bolted through the hull and backed on the underside and outside. The motor doesn't move when trailering. I have it secured with a lock so that the hand fasteners can't loosen up and I have a ratcheted strap around the metal part of the bracket to keep the motor tight and to act as a safety line in case the plastic fails. Is it a garanteed perfect failsafe measure? No but I've tried to eliminate the major concerns at least. It is unfortunate situations like this that causes you to question your own set-up as well. Good luck from here on out Killerk hope things go better for you.
  16. Beauty! Some really nice fish right there Brian
  17. Yeah John but if they did it would probably be so filled with bleeps that they would have to cancel the show
  18. Clutch is set fine Brian. The problems for some others seems to be when their weight is just suspended and nothing else is going on - the terminal connection or perhaps the wire above it just gives way and the whole thing drops to the bottom independently of the breakaway cable.. and Mike - you could be right.....but blame it on the other MIke.....cause I still remember the look on your face when it happened
  19. Ben said it exactly X4....you probably won't need any others
  20. Bob I think I may have gotten the idea from a post on here a short time ago. I think someone said they were going to give it a try so I (in desperation) went down cellar and rigged one up. Man with these things anything is worth a try. good luck out there.
  21. I've been thinking....maybe Mike has "rigger" mortis
  22. I was actually there for Mikes probe loss experience unless he's had another (I sure hope not as I never want to see that look on his face again) Hopefully the 90 lb test wire I used on my "safety strap" will hold up better than the 60 stuff seems to....hate to lose one of my bikinibottom weights though. Don, That is the breakaway cable that runs from the probe to the weight and is attached to your existing downrigger terminus so that if for example you snag up on bottom the theory is that you'd lose the weight but not the probe when the 60 lb cable snaps because it is much below the breaking strength of the normal downrigger cable (usually 150-200 lb test). The problem as in Mike's case above is that one of the cable terminations let go and everything was lost. That is why the connection I made rests ABOVE the cable terminations with the hope that it saves the probe....still no guarantee,
×
×
  • Create New...