Sk8man

I think in terms of the severity of the problem part of it may relate to the type of fleas encountered and the particular concentrations of them as they aren't uniformly distributed throughout the body of water. The Sea Flee has a slippery coating on the outside of it that seems to shed the fleas pretty well but the leadcore sheathing is course and textured allowing them to cling to it real well. I don't use the cores during the peak flea season and shift to just the coppers and riggers which usually don't seem to get as badly infested, but when the fleas are very thick even rigger wires can become clogged with them.

Fishnet - not necessarily but possible. It could also be that the jig is going outside of the cone angle of the transducer or because of the positioning of the transducer in relationship to where you are placing your line, OR possible underwater current keeping your jig outside the cone of the transducer.If your unit and transducer supports say 83/200 khz set it to 83 or if 50/200 for example set it to 50 and see if that makes a difference the cone angle should be greater with the lower setting. It could be that the sensitivity needs to be adjusted. Are you able to see bottom and fish etc. with the unit?

http://www.onthewater.com/regions/cape-cod-buzzards-bay/ P.S. You can often get the clamming permits from town halls but I belieeve now days in some places the permits are limited to residents.

Dre check your PM

I'm quite sure the middle fish is a landlock salmon and the one to the right of it is a brown trout.withthe other three being lake trout.

I guess I was answering it in a general sense as the more critical factor may be the appearance of the bait itself as it needs to revolve at a certain cycle behind the attractor and the term "flashers" can refer to dodgers and cowbells as well - each of which has different action in front of the bait.

First of all nice going on the catch I hope you are an angler diary cooperator for DEC as the other two fish are significant as most folks have been reporting the absence of both landlocks and browns.for quite awhile now and they are considering not stocking them anymore.

I believe what you are referring to is the bait behind the flasher not the flasher itself. The bait should turn over or "roll" slowly behind the flasher rather than just slipping through the water behind it. There are a number of ways to achieve this but basically a curve in the body of the bait needs to be there for it to happen and often adjustments may be needed in boat speed to get it right. It helps to observe it closely at the side of the boat before fully deploying it. With experience you develop a "feel" for the right action

Sorry Mitch I just now saw your post. I think the above is right as far as Truoro closeness to P Town. There is also the municipal launch at Wellfleet harbor but that is not nearly as close as Truro but there is a lot of parking there and a great seafood place right there on the wharf. Provincetown itself is very crowded and the parking is pretty much limited to the pay lots which are VERY congested and I'm not sure the launch is a public one or justfor the localsand charters etc.

Trying to understand the mathematics involved original post 9 rod holders....have sold four and now have 11 left, then sold 2 more and still have 9 left?

It also is posted as a "Wanted" item

I think this is the page you want rather than looking around all day on that site for it https://www.fish307.com/cannon-downrigger-power-cable-battery-side-3393200/

Most of my fishing has been during the Summer and Fall months on the Cape but the Cape Cod Canal may be a good bet during the Spring. Someone else here may know for sure. The timing of the tide is critical for them so get a tide chart wherever you decide to go or you could waste a lot of time. The previous comment about seals is real relevant too they are a real problem for much of the season in many places on the Cape..If you decide to go mid to outer Cape check with these folks about what is happening out there and where: Blackbeard's Bait & Tackle Address: 3700 State Hwy, Eastham, MA 02642 (Route #6) Phone: (508) 240-3369

Just suggestions but if you intend to fish on Lake O (and possibility of kings) it might be better to use the 1,000 ft of wire and use a fairly heavy pound test ((e.g. 40) section of mono underneath it for backer if needed to fill the reel for a couple reasons: a) any connection point can be a potential failure point e.g. between the backing and wire, and b) the braid under pressure of the wire on top of it is more likely to nest itself and be prone to messes than the wire itself. When you initially put the wire on the reel have the level wind centered on the reel and keep careful pressure on the wire as it is coming on the reel and it should stay even as long as it is always kept under some tension. Instead of the section of mono (e.g. an extra connection point) I merely use a real small bungi cord hooked from the closed swivel at the end of the wire to either the first (large) eyelet of the rod or even on the cross brace of the reel itself for my one piece rods and for two piece I use velcro computer cable ties for the sections placed together and snugged up.

Rick I'm pretty sure of that max. weight recommendation but a couple things come to mind regarding it: First is that Cannon probably used that maximum as a conservative measure relative to the motors standing up over time (and they replaced the motors with stronger ones later in their newer units), secondly, a lot would depend on actual usage of the riggers...occasional use by weekend sports fishermen - a lot less than you guys which may also underscore that they used a conservative recommendation to keep potential complaints and repairs etc. down. When those older rigger are treated well they can last for a long tiime. I have 2 10A's from before 1985 that have had a lot of use over the years but I have stayed within that recommended max. weight limit too. One of the additional considerations I had was if too heavy the riggers may become even slower