Sk8man

Try using the split ring on the release )if it has one) and fasten it to the front of the trot line clip and use tshrink wrap like I did. Another option if itdoesn't have a split ring is to wrap copper wire around the back or the releaese fastened to the trot line clip and shrink wrap that or you could use hot glue to connect

They are a heck of a lot of fun. I fish specifically for them and browns out here and even the smaller ones are pretty lively

I know this doesn't exactly answer your question but here is what I have been using for stackers since the 1970's using the trot line clip. It is just the clip with a duolock snap shrink wrapped on it and a rubber band that is half hitched to the line.

It is interesting and you may have stumbled on to something. I have caught them occasionally on them behind cowbells over the years but to catch a couple bows on them that way is something to think about. They also respond to worm harnesses with dark blue plastic worms by the way Nice going

Rob - I think some useful advice would be to get the downriggers witrh adjustable booms if you can and that way you may increase your options. Next actually try out various placement options by getting into the boat with your intended equipment (even in the driveway) and try out positioning everything to insure that it will function as you wish. Sometimes things that sound like good ideas don't translate well without actually seeing how they function. Consider running the downriggers with SLIDERS rather than stacking them. That way you can run 2 lures off each rigger without all the monkeying around and it allows you to run other stuff by freeing up the number of rods used. I often catch half the fish on sliders. The only time I don't run them is when I'm running very shallow water. related to my first comment set up all stuff you will be running in a trial run even without doing any serious fishing to see if there are any problems (tangles etc.) Placement of rod holders is especially critical n that although something may have sounded good from someone on their boat it may be in the way of other stuff on your boat....Try out the divers with both spin docs and flashers in terms of how they relate to the riggers as they both behave differently in the water. Many of the "gizmos" can wait until you have the primary situation figured out (e.g. placement of holders, downriggers etc.) having a good reliable depthfinder is important and a kicker as well for two reasons control of trolling speed and potential emergency use.

Less than half the price too

I know for a fact that some have in the past come from Keuka lake via the Keuka Outlet. I caught one before they were stocked in Seneca (1979 or so?) and I sent a pic in with my diary and that was DEC's opinion. They said at the time it was the first one reported.

If your riggers are Cannons it might be worth getting extendable booms for them and that way you have a variety of options for running. I sometimes extend one of mine out in back of the trolling motor to keep it away from the other stuff and that motor as well (e.g. on turns) and as you mentioned you should be able to rig them without leaning way out if on swivel base.

The fact that they hold up to the tanker lakers Brian catches should be all the proof someone would need

The Anglers Pal rod holders are fine for light rods such as toplining and walleye fishing but you could lose a dipsey rod and reel very quickly using them for that. You need heavy duty metal rod holders with a solid base (usually reinforced from the underside of the gunwale). Most folks use rod holders from Burts, Big Jon or Cisco for this purpose as they are made to withstand the constant strain exerted on them as well as the instantaneous whacking by a big king. I would think the Diawa 47LC would be considered "marginal" and should have the drags replaced with carbon fiber washers at the very least if used (Tuna Tom is reasonable) but they would also probably be best used on say the Finger Lakes where there aren't big kings . I think capacity wise the Magda Pro 30 might also be marginal for the 1,000 ft of wire required. I have used the 45DX with wire on the Fingers OK but for Lake O use I have the Diawa 57's because they have a 20 lb carbon fiber drag....again related to the king salmon concerns. Both the reels you mention might be used during the early Spring for browns however.

The one essential thing as far as the rods go is to have a twilli tip on them or a roller tip to reduce the friction and cutting of the wire on tip and guides.The twillis are only a few bucks and they have adapters for different rod diameters. If you go with a roller tip make sure the side plates on it are steel and not aluminum or they too can cut through.

X2 and less expensive

bill - The answer is yes to each setting.....it is a question how much though depending on the speed, currents, which side ofthe boat while turning etc.

Linda - You are an inspiration to all of us Good luck in your quest

Over the years I've used Dipseys of various sizes and just about every type of line possible and by far the best seems to be the stranded wire. Mono stretches and some of it greatly when pulling dipseys. At one time I used only the smaller dipseys on downrigger rods with mono in shallow and still do that in the early Spring or late Fall and they run well close to the bottom in shallow water and are easily controlled just by the speed of the boat when set right. I set them by lowering them to the bottom and then cranking them up a foot or two and I play with the outward settings (1-3) as well. I run light weight flutter spoons when doing this to avoid hanging up on bottom. For most purposes throughout the season dipseys are best run from wire because it gives the best compromise between achieving depth and warding off the fleas with no stretch so not allowing slack. The wire seems to shed fleas best while braid on the other hand seems to accrue them like a magnet. Although I have the full range of dipseys on the boat I prefer the 124 mm Walker now Dreamweaver Deep Divers on 30 lb test 7 strand wire over all others after many years of experimenting., The reason for this is that they achieve the greatest depth and ratio (sometimes approaching 1 1/2 to 1 depending on setting and speed) and are quite predictable in the way they run. One of the critical things for the dipseys is before you use them they need to be set right as far as tension on the release or you will be very frustrated by false releases with a whole lot of wire out. This is another reason I prefer the heavier divers on wire becasuse once the tension is set right ( I set it so that it feels a little difficult to release by hand) they release properly even when way out unlike say mono and a smaller lighter weight on the dipsey where the stretch prevents proper release. If running multiple dipseys on a side I usually run the one closest to the boat on a 1 setting as it is one a shorter roller rod while the second one is set to 2 1/2 or three. This avoids tangling with the riggers set at a 45 degree angle at the back. If not running the riggers (and usually sliders on them) I run the closest at 0 to get it good and deep and close to the predicted dive curve. A main concern with dipseys in general and especially running multiples is sharp turns and underwater current. It can be a real problem when fishing solo in a chop without an autopilot I use the old school method of constantly monitoring the angle of the wires as well as GPS speed to estimate how things are running as I don't currently have a Fishawk X4D. I am constantly making adjustments in each of the wires up and down to try to entice strikes. I also "work" all my lines (e.g. riggers and boards) while out there and frequently change attractors and flies (types and colors). One of the biggest mistakes I've seen folks make out there and especially with larger fish like salmon is to pump the rod while lowering it extremely to gain on the line and this allows slack from the attractor to the fly and off they go. Any slack in the line is always your enemy in maintaining a constant connection with the fish no matter what the setup. Just keeping a constant steady pressure while letting them take line as necessary is the best recipe for success in getting the fish into the net. i also keep the total length of the dipsey setup within 6 inches of the length of the rod I'm using so I can net the fish without hand lining them as I often fish solo. Safety lines for your rods can also be a good idea especially when fishing on other folks boats with "questionable" rod holders. Last of all always double check the direction of the dipsey setting because if set the wrong way you'll have an instant mess

I think you pretty much summed up what seems to happen....there is a length that generates the ation that the fish want and it pretty much coordinates with what the dipsey manufacturers recommend....probably not "accidental" . I also notice it with the flies that I tie myself the longer ones lose theirsction at the usual trolling speeds and if too short they whip too much and the fish have a hard time grabbing them. I noticed that a few years ago when some of the guys posted videos of the fish trying to grab flies whipping sideways so I started making mine a little bigger and heavier so that the general action of the flasher stays pretty much the same but the fly slows its sideways movement a little allowing the fish to grab it a little easier. It reduced the "dropped" situation a lot.