Matt - the temp range you want to be in is 50-60 degrees and it is running at 30-55 ft down at the north end right now. The cowbells are mainly used for lakers down deep although an occasional silver may be caught with them.. Run small to medium flutter spoons about 30-50 ft behind the boat and troll about 2.4 -2,8 mph making S turns frequently. Start out near the Geneva Golf Club where it drops off to 70-80 ft and troll south on diagonals from 80 ft of water out to about the middle back and forth all up the west side to Reeds Bay and then go back north east all along the east side near the high banks area doing the same trolling on diagonals until you hit fish. Along the way every few minutes raise or lower the riggers 5 ft or so and keep varying your trolling speed. Occasioanlly put the motor at idle for a brief time and then start back up increasing your speed. Good luck.
You should be right in the thick of it with brown territory right nearby and late running salmon heading along the shoreline on the way to the salmon river.
Basically you can figure about 22 ft per 100 ft out on the usual copper and roughly 5 ft per color for the leadcore so as an estimate 50 ft for the 10 color and 66 for a 300 copper. Trolling speed, lure, current etc. affect the actual depth. You can get increased depth by adding clip on weights to either option. Another option would be to run a shorter section of leadcore off one of the downriggers and control depth that way but still have the possible "attracting" factor of the leadcore itself whipping through the water. Iusually run it off inline boards so it is out of the way and then is on top of the other stuff vertically as well if something hits it
30 lb Bloodrun Sea Flee mono with 20 ft 10-12 lb Segaur fluoro leader connected together by #8 Spro power swivel (50 lb test) with a solid ring ball bearing swivel at the lure end of the leader for spoons or sticks. For flasher or spin doctor use or cowbells I delete the fluoro leader and just use the solid ring swivel with a duolock snap on it.
Along that line some folks use electrical tape to fasten the wire to their reel spool. This may avoid putting on backing. I have always used a section of 30 lb Big Game mono to "nest" the wire and keep it from slipping as well as offering some protection from direct pressure of the wire on the spool itself (also recommended by reel repair folks). I think you should be able to fit the 1,000 ft of 7 strand wire on that reel if you go with either the taped approach or just a short section of mono (say 50 ft.) as backing.
The 19 strand may be better in terms of kink resistance etc but regardless of what you get the key thing to remember with ANY wire is to keep it under tension at all times. Most problems encountered using wire are a result of loss of tension and when it happens the wire may curly que and then kink. The tension also needs to be maintained when you breakdown a two piece rod (one of the reasons I use one piece shorter roller rods) Once you have a kink you need to cut that section out and re-terminate. Most brands will work fine of you take care of them. I use mainly 30 lb Accustrand 7 strand SS camo or gold colored (Cablestrand Corporation) or Malin for dipsey use.
Yeah and a lot of the bass guys ignore the 45 mph speed limit all the time hitting 75 or 80 mph out there where you have other jerks swimming across the lake with no escort or anything and when there is the least chop you can't even see their heads....disaster waiting to happen....
Sorry to hear that things didn't go so well with the fishing out there(which is one of the reasons for lack of reports from me at least). The boating situation is another reason I haven't ventured out here for a while...too many idiots and little to no courtesy both on the lake and at the launch....good time to keep the flare gun out of reach too I guess At least your boat ran well and that is a real plus. Things will be better here when the yahoos have their boats pulled out for them for the season after using them a couple times....