Sk8man

Its A Fishal - It shouldn't be a problem with the 83 khz as it is far enough away in frequency but with CHIRP the unit "fills in" the lower frequencies so it probably is hitting the 70 khz frequency directly and therein lies the problem I think.

A couple guys have mentioned having problems with interference between their Fishawks and the CHIRP units (CHIRP covering that 70 khz frequency in the lower range?) so if you are planning to move to using a Fishawk at some point that may be a consideration as well.....just thinking out loud.

I've primarily run small divers on the outriggers with a 0-1 setting and never had any problems but one of the other considerations is underwater side current which could relate to what Rick's comment could be addressing too. I also mainly run my copper down the chute.

Yep

Skipper 19 has it right (as usual) . Hey Mark ...hope you're back in action out there as of today In addition to the positioning of the outriggers (e.g. distance above the water) an additional consideration running them is what are they made of because at least in my experience the aluminum type (I have both) seem a little better at running bigger dipseys as they are stiffer than the fiberglass ones and if running in rough water there is a lot of torque (and flexing of the fiberglass outriggers) so a really good set of well anchored holders is required. Heavier dipseys on the fiberglass models if located quite low on the gunwales can be pulled downward by the dipseys in rough water so that they may actually enter the water at the tips....again the torque can be tremendous so just something to think about. (Can you tell I may have been in that situation?)

Yes but I believe that you can only transport 2 days catch legally.

Garry the Luhr Jensen trolling Speed Indicator is one of the first modern methods to judge relative boat speed. There were color band markings e.g. red, green, and yellow etc. on it but it was not possible to tell exact speed of the boat let alone relating to any thing going on at the ball which is a complicated relationship between specific weight, underwater currents, precisely what setup you are running on the rigger among other variables. We used to cut little slivers of black electrical tape and place them at the specific places on the band indicator markings as we caught fish. Pretty crude device but it worked. The angle of the downrigger is at best useful "guesstimator" of boat general speed but the relationship to what is going on down at the downrigger weight level is something very different and requires a different measurement device the two most commonly used today are the Fishawk and Smartroll and earlier the Moor Subtroll (special coated downrigger cable needed).

Just an initial questioo: Are you sure you have 200 FEET or Yards on the reels? Usually stuff like Power Pro braid comes in either 150 yards or 300 yd spools in most stores stocking it. Ff you have 200 YARDS (600 ft) it would be the bare minimum lengthwise for the 50 lb. braid for most applications. You could let out a maximum of 250-300 ft and still have the length of a football field for the fish to run (not a whole lot with a big king). You might want to consider using a 124 mm. Deeper Diver as it will get you down the maximum with the least amount of line out (larger and has a heavier weight on it). I'd go with a 30 lb leader with that setup (less likely for a big king to snap off that 30 and 50 combo) with a short mainline.

Good point about the non-chlorination. When using live bait I get the ice from the water filter section on the refrigerator and usually I stop at the lake and get lake water in my live well before I get my bait, and put some in a 5 gal pail as well and then add the bait to it and after dumping the bait in the live well I gradually add the ice so as not to shock them. (Luckily I live nearby a lake)

Maybe on Lake O but I've caught quite a few nice rainbows with small spoons on the Finger Lakes 30 ft up from the cowbells despite the difference in speed. It was mainly during derbies not routine as that is the only time I specifically target lakers anyway.

A lot of things are different now. Fewer fish present, water clarity and color changes etc. I don't think the fish are into "style changes" yet Sometimes I get a kick out of folks "matching" up colors and patterns as if to be "color coordinated". I know a reason is to make it appear that you have smaller ones trailing behind larger ones but I'm not sure even that is a valid rationale.....we tend to humanize things wherever possible in terms of our own preferences. It can be superstitious behavior too (I plead guilty) when something works we tend to keep using it but it may be just that it was close enough to that hungry fish at that point time and appeared "vulnerable"

Yeah I can see Kinger now....kicked back stogy in his mouth beer in his paw and sunglasses

Yup I often run them 12 -20 ft. again it pays to experiment. I should also note that I frequently run them close to the weight too (4-8 ft) but it also depends on size of flasher and my intended speed. If they are real close to the ball and the speed is too high they do not look right in terms of the action but given the right speed they can look as though the weight and the F/F are a "unit"

Up to 15 ft for meat but I think most times closer to the weight. F/F personal preference and based on experimentation on a given day and depth is more critical than the sunlight issue as the action of the lure changes and you can run it closer as you go deep. Spoons can be run at any length but keep in mind the action is less the longer you go with many lures and at some point a belly occurs bringing things upward. Usually with most spoons the deeper you go the more action and shorter the lead. Spoons or sticks in shallow water (e.g. in Spring are often used with a longer lead (sometimes approaching 100-150 ft back (e.g. browns) but my preference for the longer ones is to run off boards or outriggers instead of downriggers.

Ed is under pressure to perform with Kinger on board....he'll be spotting the fish up front so Ed better be on his game

I know holding pike vertically for any extended length of time (or holding them by the eyes)often kills them when they are released and I suspect it may be a factor with trout or salmon as well.

Gambler has it right. In the old days folks used to prick their air bladder with a bait threading needle thinking that letting the air bladder quickly and then sending them back down was all that was needed. It was a bit shortsighted though because it probably takes time for the bladders to "heal" and in the meantime who knows what actually happens to the fish when they sink. I know over the years I have seen a bunch of them either floating or laying on bottom dead where you can see bottom. The only thing I would add is a general consideration regardless of species and that is minimize any handling where possible and always avoid grasping or touching the gill area of the fish if you intend to release it. A lot of times you see folks holding up fish for pics with their hand in the gills and saying they released the fish and you wonder if in fact that fish ever survived regardless of swimming away. Even when handling correctly there may be things happening long term like the removal of the protective slime making them more vulnerable to fungal infections etc. If they are coming out of the shallower cold water (e.g. Spring) you usually don't have to do much and they can be pretty hardy so I use needle nose pliers grasping the down turned hook and release them that way. Obviously it somewhat harder to do with the really big ones.