Sk8man

Chris (Momay 4000) explained it perfectly.

The 5 ft per color is thought to be the rough estimate. There are a lot of variables to consider though such as waves messing with your speed, trolling direction (e.g.into vs. against the wind) differences between the 18 lb and 27 lb and 45 lb test, underwater currents, and what you are running for a terminal lure (e.g. stick, diver, spoon, magnum vs. regular size) possibly whether running down the chute or from a big board pulling it up and down in rough water) etc. and perhaps even the size and length of your leader. All that comes into play in terms of the exact depth you achieve. One of the ways you can examine this is to get something like a Fishawk TD and run it on your line for a closer estimate with different setups and experiment. This will give you a closer estimate than applying the standard "guesstimate".

Lets hope so Alec Good idea too.

Please give my best regards to your dad Kev and I hope he gets back in action soon.

I hear you Justin. Better to be safe than sorry as far as I'm concerned as you can't count on someone "believing you" but I I think like much of the law the onus would be on the person to prove it did come from there not the officer proving you didn't

The only caution I can think of is that you have to stay away from setting the dipsey past the last # (e.g. 3) as most of the time it will bring the dipsey to the surface

Frozen bait falls under the same regs too You still have to have a receipt for certified bait that is within 10 days old. As far as commercial prepared bait there is no date limitation but you have to have the original packaging for it. A potential problem with the uncertified bait reg when used in the water in which it was caught is that you have no proof that it was caught there so it would seem that it could possibly be risking a ticket using it even according to the applicable regulations.

Gordy Clow. He was also a trapper and I used to get my bait from him at this place and he skinned his hides there and there would be all sorts of hides on the floor of his place . He was a real character and I ran into him last year at that sawbelly place when he delivered some so he is still at it.

The lady is certified for them and issues a receipt with the number sold, date and her signature on the receipt. It is totally legitimate and she has been in business for many years. The guy who supplies the bait for years used to live next door to her and was a bait dealer too and supplied nearly every shop in this area. You can transport bait that is certified and you have a receipt that is within 10 days old and contains the above info on the receipt. The provision regarding use within the same body of water is referring to bait caught in that body of water that is uncertified and can only be used in that water. There is however a prohibition of possession or use in certain bodies of water as listed in the DEC regs e.g. Honeoye and others.

That is where I was going to say as well. She lives in the white house just east of where Churches (later Bob's Matresses) was and on the same side I think they are $10 a dozen.

It has to be great just to be out there solo without distractions enjoying that beautiful great little lake. Good luck out there.

Nice going Mike. Sorry I wasn't able to make it today ....sounds as though you had some fun anyway despite me not being there to bust your gourds

I think the 16 lb weight may be the origin of your problem. Those older models were rated for a maximum of 10 lbs so my hunch is that it has placed a continuous strain on the motor and it may i fact be failing but also you may want to try out a 10 lb weight on it and see if it is merely the 16 lbs itself that is the problem. They are slow regardless of weight though.

I used to run a stacked rod above cowbells usually for rainbows while targeting lakers on the cowbells so I kept the stacked rod with just a spoon quite aways above the cowbell setup and no tangles.

2lbperch - I think you might be OK with a 3/0 SS Siwash hook (Mustad I think 9510?) IT should be close enough to the treble in weight.

Nice going Chas and it paid not to get too discouraged during the pre-fishing and sticking it out Congrats!

It is hard to give a complete answer your question because there are so many variables involved. The currents run in various directions on the lake and are not just one single entity that is highly predictable. They vary from place to place and in intensity as well as up and down in the water column and over structure where it occurs and in relation to water temperature changes. If you carefully observe the angle of your lines and become familiar how they act with different types of setups often you can estimate whether you are running against, across or with the current and possibly whether your lures are running correctly. Is this method as accurate as something such as a Fishawk with down speed? NO but it has been used successfully by seasoned fishermen for a long time even prior to all the existing technology. Accurately assessing this is dependent on knowing some of the traits of the lines you are using (e.g. mono, braid, wire, leadcore, copper etc.) specific to their type and diameter for example as they all behave differently in the water and have a different profile in the water column. They each have a different profile in the water and also depending on what you are running with them (e.g. dipseys. spinneys, dodgers, harnesses or lone spoons or sticks). Knowing how each of your rods acts with these lines is also important and often should be a deciding factor in their selection again depending on what you wish to do with them. The rod tip action can also tell you a lot of information about your speed and whether your lures are doing what you wish them to be doing and this is evaluated taking into consideration the angle of the line in the water and the movement of the tip of the rod itself. The downrigger cable angle is likewise an important thing to continuously monitor. Normally I try to keep mine at about a 15-30 degree angle but when you are in strong current and don't have full control over your boat speed and it depends too on what you are using for weight on the riggers this has concerns or issues (e.g. pancake, ball, fish shape, torpedo style etc.) as well as their specific weight (heavier usually less "blowback" ) but each of them differs too because of their shape and this may be more pronounced in current situations too. It also depends on what you are targeting because their are times fishing for steelies, and salmon running fast capable spoons or sticks that I exceed this angle significantly. If you have a good reliable fish finder you need to continuously monitor how your downriggers appear on there and adjust accordingly but there are limits connected with boat speed such that just letting out more cable if your weights are too light and your speed is too high may not achieve what you desire. I wouldn't forget about GPS speed as it is better than nothing but it doesn't directly correlate with what is going on at the lure level especially in light of the currents you mentioned. It is sort of a relative measure so when you connect with fish using certain setups at a certain GPS speed it can be productive to return to that speed but you have to realize that things down below (e.g. currents can change and at different depth with the same setup things run differently). I know I am giving you a long winded incomplete answer to your question but it is important to understand these basic things and to apply them to the situation as you experiment and find the things that work for you in your boat in your situation at a particular time. The best answers to these questions come from experimenting for yourself over time. This stuff is just something to think about in the meantime. Good luck out there.