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Sk8man

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Everything posted by Sk8man

  1. Maybe place them in a box and place a box of baking soda opened along with all your lures inside and close it up for awhile. More work.....wash them in Dawn Ultra dish soap.
  2. One of the things that you will find as you go along is that chinooks may have a preferred temperature range but when hunting food in the summer months especially they will go nearly anyplace temp wise and can be found way out of their expected range such as the ones you will see printed someplace. They are often found in the "ice water" of 42 -45 degrees down deep so consider the preferred temps as at best "guesstimates" in terms of real world fishing experience. Look for the marks on the screen and fish them hard and look for bait pods and fish around them hard rather than going by the preferred temp info and you'll probably be more successful
  3. Try some of Gamblers Spin N Glow rigs for that 35 incher
  4. I use a ball bearing swivel at the end of my main line. A leader will be necessary at the back end of the flasher when running a spoon and attach the spoon with a ball bearing swivel at the spoon end of that (fluoro) leader. When running a flasher from a downrigger I attach the flasher directly to my terminal ball bearing swivel on the downrigger line but if running it from wire I usually have a 30 or 40 lb test leader (Big Game mono) about 3 or 4 ft long in front of the flasher so that the action of it is right. I use a heavy duty barrel swivel at that leader end attached to the ball bearing swivel of the main wire line.
  5. Your fly leader should have a loop at the end which you attach to the swivel at the rear of the flasher. If using a spoon you'll probably want to use a flourocarbon leader with a #8 SPRO swivel between it and the main line rather than the ball bearing swivel which would go at the very end connecting to your spoon..If a spoon is connected to your flasher I usually use a small barrel swivel at one end of a fluoro leader and attach that to the back swivel of the flasher and have a ball bearing swivel on the lure end. You need the swivels that come with the flasher to prevent line twists.
  6. Holy crap....I've seen everything now. You land one on that and you deserve a medal
  7. Keep experimenting. Don't get stuck in gear running the setups the same way all the time. Remember you may not be running as deep as you think especially with the riggers because of the strong underwater currents etc. As far as your speed vary it up and down as you go and keep an eye on it and when you do get one that could be the place to run at but also the currents vary throughout the lake and the water column so it is important to keep varying your speeds in the absence of a probe. Keep changing out your lures colors sizes, types etc. until you strike gold I'd keep at least a rigger down 100-125 all the time in the cooler water either with slider and spoons or flasher/spinney /fly. and although you'll probably encounter lakers too the chinooks like the ice water as well so some of the marks you see suspended down deep may be them. Always keep your eye out for bait and fish iot hard around it. Often the big boys may be cruising outside your fishfinder cone so you may not see the ones that are active and roaming. Good luck and you'll quickly know when it isn't a little one on the other end and it isn't a laker
  8. Nice going....looks as though you earned them out there today too
  9. Mike got me pretty good that time Yeah that is what I caught that winning brown on Mike....my Barbie pole Still waiting to see how Nick runs it with the 300 copper on it before setting mine up
  10. Stunning paint job on incredible spoons.Nice going Mike.....should be able to tangle with the big boys with them
  11. Chris (Momay 4000) explained it perfectly.
  12. Geez Nick isn't that the same model as all your other ones? Ought to try something different
  13. http://deepwater.cayugafisher.net/ Nice fish!
  14. The 5 ft per color is thought to be the rough estimate. There are a lot of variables to consider though such as waves messing with your speed, trolling direction (e.g.into vs. against the wind) differences between the 18 lb and 27 lb and 45 lb test, underwater currents, and what you are running for a terminal lure (e.g. stick, diver, spoon, magnum vs. regular size) possibly whether running down the chute or from a big board pulling it up and down in rough water) etc. and perhaps even the size and length of your leader. All that comes into play in terms of the exact depth you achieve. One of the ways you can examine this is to get something like a Fishawk TD and run it on your line for a closer estimate with different setups and experiment. This will give you a closer estimate than applying the standard "guesstimate".
  15. Lets hope so Alec Good idea too.
  16. Also you may wish to consider hooking safety lines to your rods (near the reel with strong clips) as an added precaution. I do so especially on other folks boats as I tired of contributing to the fish Gods cache of rods
  17. Please give my best regards to your dad Kev and I hope he gets back in action soon.
  18. I hear you Justin. Better to be safe than sorry as far as I'm concerned as you can't count on someone "believing you" but I I think like much of the law the onus would be on the person to prove it did come from there not the officer proving you didn't
  19. The only caution I can think of is that you have to stay away from setting the dipsey past the last # (e.g. 3) as most of the time it will bring the dipsey to the surface
  20. Frozen bait falls under the same regs too You still have to have a receipt for certified bait that is within 10 days old. As far as commercial prepared bait there is no date limitation but you have to have the original packaging for it. A potential problem with the uncertified bait reg when used in the water in which it was caught is that you have no proof that it was caught there so it would seem that it could possibly be risking a ticket using it even according to the applicable regulations.
  21. Gordy Clow. He was also a trapper and I used to get my bait from him at this place and he skinned his hides there and there would be all sorts of hides on the floor of his place . He was a real character and I ran into him last year at that sawbelly place when he delivered some so he is still at it.
  22. The lady is certified for them and issues a receipt with the number sold, date and her signature on the receipt. It is totally legitimate and she has been in business for many years. The guy who supplies the bait for years used to live next door to her and was a bait dealer too and supplied nearly every shop in this area. You can transport bait that is certified and you have a receipt that is within 10 days old and contains the above info on the receipt. The provision regarding use within the same body of water is referring to bait caught in that body of water that is uncertified and can only be used in that water. There is however a prohibition of possession or use in certain bodies of water as listed in the DEC regs e.g. Honeoye and others.
  23. That is where I was going to say as well. She lives in the white house just east of where Churches (later Bob's Matresses) was and on the same side I think they are $10 a dozen.
  24. Gator is right....the problem isn't with the "worker bees" themselves. There are a lot of dedicated people lending their respective talents to the process but the troubling part is the type of influences from higher up (both at the state and federal levels) to meet the demands of their own agendas and this seems to be where "transparency" breaks down and the "conclusions" from the various data collection efforts and research may be "corrupted".
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